Mojave Must do upgrades Mojave 6s?

[Dutch_joker]

Are there any must do upgrades voor de Mojave 6s v2?
I will buy some scorched rc fenders.

Pinion change for more speed? Running the car on loose sand.

Do i need to shoegoo the whole body and how much layers 1/2?

 

[Garcbomber]

Alloy upper front hinge pin block on order along with 35+kg servo.

Motor fan and 17-18T motor pinion. Timing to 15, punch 7-8 If running rocky terrain get some alloy skid plate and front/rear 3DRC bumper absorber mounts. Body is your choice, I run mine light since the cage is robust.

 

[Dutch_joker]

Alloy upper front hinge pin block on order along with 35+kg servo.

Motor fan and 17-18T motor pinion. Timing to 15, punch 7-8 If running rocky terrain get some alloy skid plate and front/rear 3DRC bumper absorber mounts. Body is your choice, I run mine light since the cage is robust.

View attachment 332495

Thanks!. Any advice which hing pin block to pick up?

I bought the rc from a guy. Car was not abused. You see some inside marks in the body. Seem to be some weak points. I want to make the weak points a bit stronger with some shoegoo.

 

[KevinC]

Hey Dutch.
I shoo gooed the whole body (1 coat but super thick).
The scorched inner fenders are a must so it looks like youre on the right track.
Im running backflip LP’s on mine as well…….and JBI hex extenders. Rig is a bit wider but no rollovers in turns……..it’s a personal thing. Had to trim the body for the tires and extenders to work.

cheers,
kev

 

[Moonstonemike]

Aluminum chassis braces are always a good upgrade on any of the long wheelbase arrma.

 

[Dutch_joker]

Exb braces any good?

 

[KevinC]

Oh yes…….exb braces.

 

[SrC]

Are there any must do upgrades voor de Mojave 6s v2?
I will buy some scorched rc fenders.

Pinion change for more speed? Running the car on loose sand.

Do i need to shoegoo the whole body and how much layers 1/2?

If you haven't already, both the Front and Rear braces should be upgraded to Alloy, out the box.
I run the Speed gear in my V1 Mojo FWIW. Also Consider the Arrma Metal Center Diff upgrade. Center only is needed. It gets quite hot, depending how you drive. I've melted the composite Center diff before. Gets to 250F sometimes. I also Run 60k front, 500k center and 20k Rr. diff oils. Trial and error got this where I am now.

>>I also placed a Carbon Fiber tube over the T2T brace. AMZ has it. Buy one that is longer and has the same I.D. as the O.D. of the T2T, then Cut precisely to match the stock T2T length perfectly. One and done. No need to buy an $upgrade$ T2T at all. I do that with all my 6s rigs. The T2T can bow and bend otherwise. Been there. CF sleeving is an inexpensive fix for this. Never bends now. The XLWB of the Mojo, FT and now with the 1/7 BRCC needs this mod absolutely. You won't need an $Upgrade$ M2C, EXB, etc chassis this way.

I also Moved the Lipo tray rearward so it won't inherently nose dive/ lawn dart as much. The holes are there on the chassis for this.
I put a lexan Windshield on the front window. Less aero Drag results. Less nose lift at speed.
I prefer the stocker wheels and only use them now. Tried the rest.
I love my Mojo. It is hooked up just right. Stock shock oil and all. I did laydown the shocks one notch. And lowered the roll center some at the rear Camber links. FWIW. It has way less chassis traction roll. Many complain about this out the box. But being a SCT, is just the way it is out the box. . Stays Flatter on the turns now. Proper droop and Sway bar tension also keeps it from Traction rolling.

 

[mag162]

Following along closely cause I just got a Mojave 6S also.
Where is the best place to get the alloy braces and other assorted needs?

 

[Dutch_joker]

If you haven't already, both the Front and Rear braces should be upgraded to Alloy, out the box.
I run the Speed gear in my V1 Mojo FWIW. Also Consider the Arrma Metal Center Diff upgrade. Center only is needed. It gets quite hot, depending how you drive. I've melted the composite Center diff before. Gets to 250F sometimes. I also Run 60k front, 500k center and 20k Rr. diff oils. Trial and error got this where I am now.

>>I also placed a Carbon Fiber tube over the T2T brace. AMZ has it. Buy one that is longer and has the same I.D. as the O.D. of the T2T, then Cut precisely to match the stock T2T length perfectly. One and done. No need to buy an $upgrade$ T2T at all. I do that with all my 6s rigs. The T2T can bow and bend otherwise. Been there. CF sleeving is an inexpensive fix for this. Never bends now. The XLWB of the Mojo, FT and now with the 1/7 BRCC needs this mod absolutely. You won't need an $Upgrade$ M2C, EXB, etc chassis this way.

I also Moved the Lipo tray rearward so it won't inherently nose dive/ lawn dart as much. The holes are there on the chassis for this.
I put a lexan Windshield on the front window. Less aero Drag results. Less nose lift at speed.
I prefer the stocker wheels and only use them now. Tried the rest.
I love my Mojo. It is hooked up just right. Stock shock oil and all. I did laydown the shocks one notch. And lowered the roll center some at the rear Camber links. FWIW. It has way less chassis traction roll. Many complain about this out the box. But being a SCT, is just the way it is out the box. . Stays Flatter on the turns now. Proper droop and Sway bar tension also keeps it from Traction rolling.

Could you show a picture from the carbon upgrade?

 

[SrC]

Sorry for the late reply...
FR and Rr alloy braces can be M2C, EXB or HR and there are other cheap knock off brands, I have used. EBay Knock offs aren't always a precise fit but have made them work. I tried them all. It's your wallet.
But in that order the $M2C$ braces being the Best. It's your wallet that will determine.

CF sleeve over the long T2T brace is another great mod that works hands down. I haven't used any upgrade T2T alloy Ends or Bullkhead mounts. I never damaged them, but I could see how that would take it to the next level. Not necessary for most IMHO, depending how high and hard you send it.
I don't believe in buying upgrades just for the $Bling$, or because the next guy did. Just adds unneeded weight, with little if any benefit.
We all drive differently and have different expectations.

 

[SrC]

Ignore the CH 2 Tires on my FT above. They suck IMHO. On any of my 6s rigs. Just me. Never liked them. BF LP's or 6s BF's are way better on a Kraton, OC/Noto or other. With my Mojave, I prefer the stocker Fortress wheels. Perfect for me. The Scale fit and all.
I had one FT tire blow out on me and needed a set to throw on to bash. I like the FT wheels much better. Need to go to JennysRC and get me a new set of 4..

Notice above I moved the Lipo tray rearward on both my FT And Mojo. Less nose diving affect.
The new 6s 1/7 BRCC ( same XLWB chassis) has the lipo tray Rearward by default out the box now. Because Arrma sees how it does work better on this XLWB chassis.

 

[Dutch_joker]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/cheap-or-free-carbon-fiber-center-brace-reinforcement.60767/

This upgrade looks nice for the T2T brace.

Ignore the CH 2 Tires on my FT above. They suck IMHO. On any of my 6s rigs. Just me. Never liked them. BF LP's or 6s BF's are way better on a Kraton, OC/Noto or other. With the my Mojave, is prefer the stocker Fortress wheels. Perfect for me. The Scale fit and all.
I had one FT tire blow out on me and needed a set to throw on to bash. I like the FT wheels much better. Need to go to JennysRC and get me a new set of 4..

Notice above I moved the Lipo tray rearward on both my FT And Mojo. Less nose diving affect.
The new 6s 1/7 BRCC ( same XLWB chassis) has the lipo tray Rearward by default out the box now. Because Arrma sees how it does work better on this XLWB chassis.

 

[Woodentop]

Parked my mexb for a while as it would just roll over constantly with any kind of steering input. Gets old fast. Searched on here and came across a post by @Yonic iirc. Lowered the rear camber links (bottom inside hole, shock tower side) upped the rear shock pistons to 1.4mm and installed the optional stiffest shock springs. What a difference. Night and day. Controlled drifts on grass for days.

 

[Dutch_joker]

Parked my mexb for a while as it would just roll over constantly with any kind of steering input. Gets old fast. Searched on here and came across a post by @Yonic iirc. Lowered the rear camber links (bottom inside hole, shock tower side) upped the rear shock pistons to 1.4mm and installed the optional stiffest shock springs. What a difference. Night and day. Controlled drifts on grass for days.

Thanks. Any link to the post from Yonic? Or there a no more details on what to do? How do you up the rear shock pistons and which shock springs do i need?

 

[Garcbomber]

Just add negative camber like drifters, you’ll lose straight line traction and will wear the inside of the tires quicker. You’re essentially digging less outside wheel weight into the ground which causes a narrow wheelbase SCT to catch and roll over. Truck is meant for groomed dirt track and turf out of the box. If you measure your max and min wheel digital angles/alignment you’ll notice a lot of slop because of assembly tolerance in all the links and steering. Tightening that up will give a more consistent and realistic feel but they market a 14+ year old basher out of the box.

 

[Yonic]

Any link to the post from Yonic?

I found these old posts, this and that.

 

[DenderDennis]

Not particularly for the handling but to reinforce the front boer and the body post holders, fill the round holes with foam. That is a simple but very effective way to make these weak points disappeare.

 

[Dutch_joker]

Dennis, do you have a picture?

Not particularly for the handling but to reinforce the front boer and the body post holders, fill the round holes with foam. That is a simple but very effective way to make these weak points disappeare.

 

[DenderDennis]

Dennis, do you have a picture?

There you go. Alstublieft

I have just sold this one last week. Fortunately we still got the photos.

I have had pretty much the car you are building... ;-)