Kraton Need help with consideration..

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TR2N

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LUENEBURG, GERMANY
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
Hello guys,

I have a Kraton 6s v5 with a lot of extras I built in the car in the last couple of month (e.g. metal diff cases on all three Diffs - properly shimed with Mugen set E0206, 7075 rear Skidplate, EXB metal chassis braces, EXB X-hard spring for the servo saver and ball bearings in the steering mechanics, metal servo mount and the list continues). Overall a lot of work and money I have put in this car, but that's the hobby. 😉

In the last days I repeatley reading and watching videos about the 6S EXB. And I thinking about to sell my v5 as roller and getting the EXB, in the first instance with the electronics from my v5. I really can not decide if this is a good idea or just throwing out money through the window.. But everytime I drive my K6S I have the fear of breaking the diffs, one of my main concern and the reason I am leaning toward the EXB and the much better Diffs it has, as one example. I just want to be less stressed when driving. I have no problems with fixing things, I am coming from rc helicopters and learned it the hard way many many years ago, but I also like to just pull the trigger and let the car run.. I also know that a EXB is also detroyable, but maybe it is harder.

Weird, correct? I really can't consider what to do. When I look to the EXB it screams get me, when I look to my BLX it says keep me, you did so much to me.. 🤣

So please guys, help me!! 🤣

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PXL_20210521_214622728.jpg


PXL_20210611_092318753.jpg
 
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Hello guys,

I have a Kraton 6s v5 with a lot of extras I built in the car in the last couple of month (e.g. metal diff cases on all three Diffs - properly shimed with Mugen set E0206, 7075 rear Skidplate, EXB metal chassis braces, EXB X-hard spring for the servo saver and ball bearings in the steering mechanics, metal servo mount and the list continues). Overall a lot of work and money I have put in this car, but that's the hobby. 😉

In the last days I repeatley reading and watching videos about the 6S EXB. And I thinking about to sell my v5 as roller and getting the EXB, in the first instance with the electronics from my v5. I really can not decide if this is a good idea or just throwing out money through the window.. But everytime I drive my K6S I have the fear of breaking the diffs, one of my main concern and the reason I am leaning toward the EXB and the much better Diffs it has, as one example. I just want to be less stressed when driving. I have no problems with fixing things, I am coming from rc helicopters and learned it the hard way many many years ago, but I also like to just pull the trigger and let the car run..

Weird, correct? I really can't consider what to do. When I look to the EXB it screams get me, when I look to my BLX it says keep me, you did so much to me.. 🤣

So please guys, help me!! 🤣

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Ummm u pretty much have a EXB. Just with out the LSD diffs. But I run my v4 with the open diffs I think they are called same ones that come in the v5. And I have very very little problems with them if I shim them right. But to answer your question. I would keep what u have. And if u want EXB diffs you can just swap them out. Best luck
 
Um, i'm scared of the exb diffs and prefer the v4's hahahaha. I'd stay with what you have and upgrade like said above. Hinge pin blocks, beefier towers, the m2c upgraded offsets, an m2c/JBI chassis maybe down the road if you break any of what you have or just want to go for full on beefcake mode from the get go like me :ROFLMAO: I max6/hobbystar 4092 all of my rigs as well. I run the 1480kv in my k6/o6, and the 1730 in my talions, senton, and typhons, and have a 1650 hobbywing in my mojave currently. I gear all of them 24/46 except for the speed talion, it's running 26/46.
 
There isn't much left in the EXB to warrant getting it. LSD diffs with stronger ring/pinion (that your cups won't work with), thin'ish 7075 chassis (that still bends) and 7075 towers.

I'd get the M2C chassis and rear tower support (if it works with the v5 center brace) and stick with what you have. If you fry your diffs, replace them with the EXB diffs from jenny's or ebay. Odds are, if you shimmed them well internally (for spider/sun gears) and externally (for ring/pinion), they will hold up for quite a while anyway.
 
Thank you. Yes, i have shimmed them very well. But you are right, once these Diffs are done and i don´t want to rebuild them anymore i will get the EXB ones.

In the meantime the conversion goes on.. ;-)

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Guys, do you have an advise which kind of EXB diffs i can put in my K6S BLX in the future? I am really confused about if it should be open or LSD..

Because i am driving a v5 changing the diffs and the input gears in the bulkheads should be suffice to replace?


Edit: I also find this confusing when i have a look for ARA311066 (Open Diff preassembled):

1624007083869.png


and another one (takn from ARRMA website):

1624007157559.png


Which is the proper one??
 
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Kraton V4 6s


ARA106040 Kraton 6S BLX

Kraton V5 6s


ARA8608V5T1 KRATON BLX 6S

Kraton EXB 6s


ARA106053 Kraton 1:8 4WD EXtreme Bash Roller
Front / Rear Differential220041310957310990 limited slip differential
Bulkhead310854310854310854
Diff Outdrive310439310439310981
Main input gear310498311054310979
Input shaft cup310432310976, 310977310976, 310977


311066 differential (Front or Rear Open Spiral Cut Diff Set) fits on 6s Kraton V4, V5, and EXB. But you need ARA310979 - MAIN INPUT GEAR 10T SPIRAL CUT GP4 5mm. Think it fits on all oder versions too, but not sure.

So the choice is between 311066 and 310990 depending on the driving characteristics you want.
 
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Kraton V4 6s


ARA106040 Kraton 6S BLX

Kraton V5 6s


ARA8608V5T1 KRATON BLX 6S

Kraton EXB 6s


ARA106053 Kraton 1:8 4WD EXtreme Bash Roller
Front / Rear Differential220041310957310990 limited slip differential
Bulkhead310854310854310854
Diff Outdrive310439310439310981
Main input gear310498311054310979
Input shaft cup310432310976, 310977310976, 310977


311066 differential (Front or Rear Open Spiral Cut Diff Set) fits on 6s Kraton V4, V5, and EXB. But you need ARA310979 - MAIN INPUT GEAR 10T SPIRAL CUT GP4 5mm. Think it fits on all oder versions too, but not sure.

So the choice is between 311066 and 310990 depending on the driving characteristics you want.

Thank you very much! I like the driving style of the "old" v5 Diffs - where is the difference in the driving characteristics / Open - LSD? Is Open compareable to the "old" Diffs? And on LSD there is also the option between Minimum and Maximum effect. Very confusing. Sorry for the noob questions..

And last but not least - what does 1x face and 3x faces in the attached exploded view mean?
 

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And last but not least - what does 1x face and 3x faces in the attached exploded view mean?
Faces refer to the number of contact faces between a disc and a pressure plate in each stack. 1x face is "less effect" and 3x face is full effect.

I have a V5 car and an EXB. The difference I notice is the EXB diffs out less, while still initiating turns better, but the margin is small. It is not what I would call a night and day difference. I like that I can get good handling out of the EXB without using heavy fluid.
 
Faces refer to the number of contact faces between a disc and a pressure plate in each stack. 1x face is "less effect" and 3x face is full effect.

I have a V5 car and an EXB. The difference I notice is the EXB diffs out less, while still initiating turns better, but the margin is small. It is not what I would call a night and day difference. I like that I can get good handling out of the EXB without using heavy fluid.
Which setup do you have?
 
On the K6s EXB, I'm running 20k full effect front, 200k full effect center (it is too stiff, 150k would be perfect), and 10k/open rear. One of these days I will try 10k or 7k full effect in the rear, but I need an excuse to remove the diff first. That's with the stock tires, mostly on grass/high traction conditions.

The open diff setup I am comparing it to is my V5 T6s with MX28s, 50k/200k/10k.

Alles klar?
 
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