Kraton Need upgrade suggestions for Kraton 6s V4 (diffs, shims, pinion, bearings, etc.)

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Oceanminded

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I've owned my new Kraton 6s v4 now for about a month with about a half dozen or so good bashing sessions. Other than doing some basic cleaning/maintenace I haven't upgraded anything yet other than stock radio, front bumper and rear skid plate. What are some good performance upgrades to begin with? I was thinking of trying a bigger pinion and maybe redoing shims and oil in diffs as well as upgrading all the bearings. Appreciate any tips, brands, etc. I upped my punch setting to a six as well. Truck seems to be running great so far other some minor front tire ballooning. I'll probably wait on the heavy duty bashing upgrades until stuff starts breaking but if I end up changing diff oil, I'm up for upgrading certain parts to kill two birds with one stone.
 
Interesting, any good threads or videos that discuss oil weight recommendations for all-around driving, bashing.
 
You might consider upgrading the servo as well.
For diff oils i personally like 40k/200k/20k that's front/center/rear for bashing. Others go heavier with 60/500/30. Some even 1M on center diff.
Lot's of discussion on this forum about this. Best to try different combos and figure out what you like. I tried the heavier visc oils but found i didn't like the handling as much as with the lower. Good luck!
 
Ya, i don't want to change to anything too drastic. Stock seems okay other than some minor front tire ballooning? Will thicker front diff oil help with this or do I need to lower the punch back to 4 from 6. If I were to up the pinion gear does that affect what oil in the diffs I were to use?
 
Ya, i don't want to change to anything too drastic. Stock seems okay other than some minor front tire ballooning? Will thicker front diff oil help with this or do I need to lower the punch back to 4 from 6. If I were to up the pinion gear does that affect what oil in the diffs I were to use?
Center diff oil affects the ballooning, not the front diff oil. Do yourself a favor and at least get metal chassis braces.
 
Many seem to go for aftermarket parts, but I’m a firm believer in perfecting what you’ve been given before dishing out cash on said parts.

Number one on my list (of any RC), is to check the diffs and drivetrain. How’s the backlash when you hold the center input shaft and turn a wheel? If you have excessive play, ya, take it all apart and troubleshoot. My experience with RTRs is that shims were missing. Chances are that oil level is low from the factory too and you’ll be grateful you opened it up. Maybe not enough grease was applied... or the cheap stuff was used? Maybe everything checks out (which has never been my case). Factory bearings aren’t worth their weight in bat poop so invest in quality set of sealed bearings (Avid is my go-to place, but to each their own).

There are no shortage of how-to videos on this area or guidance from veterans who have been doing this RIGHT for years.
 
Many seem to go for aftermarket parts, but I’m a firm believer in perfecting what you’ve been given before dishing out cash on said parts.

Number one on my list (of any RC), is to check the diffs and drivetrain. How’s the backlash when you hold the center input shaft and turn a wheel? If you have excessive play, ya, take it all apart and troubleshoot. My experience with RTRs is that shims were missing. Chances are that oil level is low from the factory too and you’ll be grateful you opened it up. Maybe not enough grease was applied... or the cheap stuff was used? Maybe everything checks out (which has never been my case). Factory bearings aren’t worth their weight in bat poop so invest in quality set of sealed bearings (Avid is my go-to place, but to each their own).

There are no shortage of how-to videos on this area or guidance from veterans who have been doing this RIGHT for years.

I know nobody like that. :D :giggle:
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