Neptune 4 MAX - fillement issues after first test run.

[The-Terminator]

Hello all!

i have get my Neptune 4 MAX and its a huge good and nice printer.
out if the box i assembled it and did the bed leveling things.
and direct printed the benchy.. and that works perfect. it was the first print.

after installing prusaslicer and the newest elegoo cura and see and compare settings etc..
i have now a problem that i can not get the printer to print...

it seems the fillement will krull arround the head.. and will not stick to the buildplate anymore and my fillement is complete new out the box vacuum sealed etc.
never had issues with my fillement on my other small printers but now it looks like it make the fillement bubbles etc..

what i did after see tuning videos etc.. nothing help...

i did:

1 - update the firmware to the newest 1.2.2.65 - no result
2 - take the head of, and look inside if it was clogged or dirt in it - no result
3 - well 20 times bed leveling done... and my bed is really quiete flat - no result
4 - change the messing 0.4mm head wit hthe one as spare in the package - no result
5 - print again the benchy from the USB that was deliverd... ( the first print that works) - no result
6 - check all bolts and settings - no result
7 - play in the menu with extrude and tempurture.. seems that by 195 degree celsius the bubbles get less but then i get motor skipping.. so its to low temp for PETG
8 - try other roll of PETG... also other brand.. and also new in back (sealed air tight) so almost no moister in it.. (beside i allways print with this filement and never had issues)
9 - try other profiles found on youtube for prusa slicer 4 Pro, can be used for MAX to - no result
10 - print on 80 Celsius headbed - no result
11 - print with gluestick and tape and captontape... all no result
12 - checked serveral times the first layer hight.. its set as given in the instructions.. but still the filement krulles arround the head and you get a blob.

so in really disapointed and sad that im not get that extrusion good and get stick to the buildplate..

i don't know what to do now.. its really weird why my printer does not print anymore after 1 test print.

i uploaded a macro picture ofthe fillement bubbeling... and the benchy that went very well as first print

best regards,

Mark

 

[Tex Koder]

Hello all!

i have get my Neptune 4 MAX and its a huge good and nice printer.
out if the box i assembled it and did the bed leveling things.
and direct printed the benchy.. and that works perfect. it was the first print.

after installing prusaslicer and the newest elegoo cura and see and compare settings etc..
i have now a problem that i can not get the printer to print...

it seems the fillement will krull arround the head.. and will not stick to the buildplate anymore and my fillement is complete new out the box vacuum sealed etc.
never had issues with my fillement on my other small printers but now it looks like it make the fillement bubbles etc..

what i did after see tuning videos etc.. nothing help...

i did:

1 - update the firmware to the newest 1.2.2.65 - no result
2 - take the head of, and look inside if it was clogged or dirt in it - no result
3 - well 20 times bed leveling done... and my bed is really quiete flat - no result
4 - change the messing 0.4mm head wit hthe one as spare in the package - no result
5 - print again the benchy from the USB that was deliverd... ( the first print that works) - no result
6 - check all bolts and settings - no result
7 - play in the menu with extrude and tempurture.. seems that by 195 degree celsius the bubbles get less but then i get motor skipping.. so its to low temp for PETG
8 - try other roll of PETG... also other brand.. and also new in back (sealed air tight) so almost no moister in it.. (beside i allways print with this filement and never had issues)
9 - try other profiles found on youtube for prusa slicer 4 Pro, can be used for MAX to - no result
10 - print on 80 Celsius headbed - no result
11 - print with gluestick and tape and captontape... all no result
12 - checked serveral times the first layer hight.. its set as given in the instructions.. but still the filement krulles arround the head and you get a blob.

so in really disapointed and sad that im not get that extrusion good and get stick to the buildplate..

i don't know what to do now.. its really weird why my printer does not print anymore after 1 test print.

i uploaded a macro picture ofthe fillement bubbeling... and the benchy that went very well as first print

best regards,

Mark

Mark,
Welcome to the Forum.

So if I understand correctly..
The (Elegoo supplied, off USB stick) Benchy printed just fine.

But, now whatever you're trying to print from PrusaSlicer.. is just poop. Is that correct?




What is this that you're trying to print??

View attachment 351795

View attachment 351796

**************

Here's what I suggest -
Go ahead and Uninstall BOTH slicers, reboot your computer and install ONLY Elegoo's Cura slicer (for now) , just so we have a "clean" baseline to work with.



Did you do a PID tune?
You should do that First on the printer , AFTER you >>

Manually Level the bed ,then do the Auto bed leveling, and Then set your Z-Offset.




Then try the Benchy again.
Let us know your result(s).

 

[The-Terminator]

Mark,
Welcome to the Forum.

So if I understand correctly..
The (Elegoo supplied, off USB stick) Benchy printed just fine.

But, now whatever you're trying to print from PrusaSlicer.. is just poop. Is that correct?




What is this that you're trying to print??



**************

Here's what I suggest -
Go ahead and Uninstall BOTH slicers, reboot your computer and install ONLY Elegoo's Cura slicer (for now) , just so we have a "clean" baseline to work with.



Did you do a PID tune?
You should do that First on the printer , AFTER you >>

Manually Level the bed ,then do the Auto bed leveling, and Then set your Z-Offset.




Then try the Benchy again.
Let us know your result(s).

Hello,

that poop picture is the filament that i extrude from the menu.. 50mm and that will make that bubble look string.. instead of a nice solid one.

en no i did not do de PID tune yet.. i did not do that because the benchy that i just printed when i assambled the printer and did de manual bed level and the automatic.

i will go uninstall all slicers... and then will go install the newest cura again that i downloaded from elegoo website.. it should have still the good profile i guess...
i will try to print again.. and will report back..

best Regards,

mark

 

[Tex Koder]

Hello,

that poop picture is the filament that i extrude from the menu.. 50mm and that will make that bubble look string.. instead of a nice solid one.

Okay.


Difficult to say what's causing that..
Especially if like you said it's Not moist filament and it's a Brand New roll from sealed package...

Could it be that extruder's gear tension has gotten loose ,perhaps..
Causing it to not put enough -consistent- pressure during the feed?

 

[The-Terminator]

the tension seems to be OK if the temporture get to low it start to skip, and if i raise the speed etc it will push it trough still with a higher temp.
the only thing i discovered is that that little flap.. to release the tension to push the filement by hand down to the hotend is broke.. it will not work.. so i need to load with the wheel or by screen with load..

i did now the PID's for head and bed.. now i go start the benchy again direct from the USB

and i think it will not do help it.. but i will see in a little few minutes

nope no result again.. omg i get so frustrated from this... look the picture i send.. that stupid blob on the head... and the layer hight is correct etc... it will just not stick to the buildplate.. and it looks again like it is all puffed up.. so with bubbles in it

 

[Tex Koder]

...

nope no result again.. omg i get so frustrated from this... look the picture i send.. that stupid blob on the head... and the layer hight is correct etc... it will just not stick to the buildplate.. and it looks again like it is all puffed up.. so with bubbles in it

Could be the tensioner lever..
Take it apart and have a look , just to check and make sure it's not cracked some how.

Also, if you have isopropyl alcohol 91%
Use it to wipe the bed plate..
Just to have it super clean.

 

[Snowmandk]

That looks like what happens when your Z-offset is wrong.
I know you said your first layer height is correct, but honestly I‘d check it again.

Home your printhead, manually lower it to 0 and check the distance between printbed and nozzle.
How many sheets of paper can you fit between nozzle and bed?

 

[nomis38]

So in having this printer I can tell you you need to have a lot of squish. I also have a friend with a N4 pro that had these types of issues as well as I have a few times to. Its always a bed leveling and z-offset issue every single time.

Sure use a piece of paper to manually level your bed at all 7 points, sure let it autolevel and save it. Great!! Wonderful!! "serious but massively sarcastic"


Best advise:
Now smash that z-offset down till it prints right. Do not just go by leveling alone, go by printing. Personally what i do is make a block in tinkcercad, 10mm x 6mm x 8mm high 15% infill is fine. Then put it in all seven spots on the bed in your slicer that you manually bed level. Do a 5mm brim. With this I go around and adjust all my knobs till each and every spot on my bad has the exact same brim squish and honestly i don't leave them looking super smooth. Another way to tell is if you have seperation in your brim lines, if you do its not gonna stick and your going to have a blob on your nozzle that may cause you a super headache if left till it drys.

If your brim don't look like this below.... Smash either that z-offset down more, or use the knobs on your bed in each corner to get it lifted up. Z-offset and adjusting knobs is kinda the same thing so don't do both. Do one or the other.

Typically with a flat bed and say hairspray you can leave the brim not looking all smashed and it sticks. Not so much with textured PEI sheets that don't require anything to stick to.


Again zoom in and really look at these brims, they are smashed pretty hard "high squish". These are all prints that were 15 to 30 hours and successful. Mash that stuff down sir.

You don't even have to zoom in on this picture lolol... Look at that brim in the front left corner, its so smashed it looks crappy and not smooth..

 

[The-Terminator]

Hello all!

after a lot of time spending on cleaning etc.. i did notice the message from Snowman, that the z-offset is wrong and that is what i tought too.
so i did a test to manually check again whit paper. and it seems that my z-offset was 0.1 to high still that is to much.. so did in console:

SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-1.110000 MOVE=0

en then a print stick to the bed...

but now i need to manually add that rule every time.. i see no options in the config files where he do load that offset.. so i can change it..
if i wan to do the level.. then it goes all again with auto bed level etc.. and i just want to make the numbers changed then it wil be OK

so i play arround with that setting to get the best z-offset

i will let you know if this worked out for me.

Best Regards,
Mark

 

[nomis38]

Well at anytime if someone shows me there brims on prints I can tell you exactly what you need to do. So posting "high quality well focused" pics of the first few layers of your prints is essential. Pics like what I show above.

Also .1 is a ton. .01 increment adjustments are what you should be making on z-offest. Also under stand "loosly" z-offset really pertains mostly to the center of the bed. Once you get out to the edges your knobs can change z-offset slightly

Put a block in each corner and one in the center, do a print and look at the brims on all of them. This is a sure-fire way to know you are gonna have good prints and youre set correctly. Anyone that has done this and sent me a pic i can tell them exactly what's wrong and how to fix it.

You absolutely do not need to write anything into your gcode every time just fyi.

 

[Tex Koder]

Hello all!

after a lot of time spending on cleaning etc.. i did notice the message from Snowman, that the z-offset is wrong and that is what i tought too.
so i did a test to manually check again whit paper. and it seems that my z-offset was 0.1 to high still that is to much.. so did in console:

SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-1.110000 MOVE=0

en then a print stick to the bed...

but now i need to manually add that rule every time.. i see no options in the config files where he do load that offset.. so i can change it..
if i wan to do the level.. then it goes all again with auto bed level etc.. and i just want to make the numbers changed then it wil be OK

so i play arround with that setting to get the best z-offset

i will let you know if this worked out for me.

Best Regards,
Mark

That doesn't sound right..
I don't believe that's correct/necessary to have to Manually amend your config file like that to be able to print properly, each time.

I still believe it's a mechanical issue with the printer.



Have you reached out to Elegoo?
Time to have some of their technicians look into this issue..

 

[The-Terminator]

Hello All!

for now i stop for a while, im get so frustrated... i now 2 days busy to get it working with all settings and possibilies etc...
it just will not work somehow.. i keep a building blob under my nozzle... and if it print 1 little it will scrape it of.. and will stick at the nozzle and then that stupid blob again.

the only think i can think is that gold plate thing is to slik.. al that gluestick stuff in in it and it feels to slik.. i wash it of with IPA 99% and did all kind of stuff..

nothing helps.. im really ge tso disapointed... i just put the miachine off now and will try again over a few days haha.. i have enough of it for now

best regards,
Mark

and will be here response back a few days later

That doesn't sound right..
I don't believe that's correct/necessary to have to Manually amend your config file like that to be able to print properly, each time.

I still believe it's a mechanical issue with the printer.



Have you reached out to Elegoo?
Time to have some of their technicians look into this issue..

Hello, Yes i did send a mail to there support as well..

 

[nomis38]

100% if you had to much squish this would not happen!! Bring that nozzle closer and closer to the bed till it prints right. Trust me!!
.

 

[Tex Koder]

100% if you had to much squish this would not happen!! Bring that nozzle closer and closer to the bed till it prints right. Trust me!!
.

Need More..

 

[The-Terminator]

hello all!

now started last night again with a fresh toughts and idea.. and all what i did is apply again gleustick on a cold plate..
and just installed the Orca Slicer and transfer the profile for the printer and make a gcode and put in the printer.. and what you think... it works..
i had 2 times to stop it.. because still little problem with bed athesive but now it stay stick on the plate and then its works like a charm haha
my First part of the Terminator printed loll

i will keep this updated.. untill i have the 100% good solution of the bed adhesive..

Greeings,
Mark

 

[nomis38]

I have a good solution for bed adhesion on a textured PEI with no gluestick or hairspray.... Smash that nozzle down as much as possible lol. This is not an issue with Elegoo or even the Neptune 4 Max. Anytime on any printer that you want to use a sheet with no adhesion you will need to have very high squish.

You don't need to look for a 100% good solution, I have a 100% good solution for this, you just aren't trying it . I have known what your issue is and how to fix it since your first post. Your example here "glue stick fixed my printer" just proves what I was saying all along.

Glad you got it sticking now!! Terminator jaw looks nice, good job!!

 

[The-Terminator]

So in having this printer I can tell you you need to have a lot of squish. I also have a friend with a N4 pro that had these types of issues as well as I have a few times to. Its always a bed leveling and z-offset issue every single time.

Sure use a piece of paper to manually level your bed at all 7 points, sure let it autolevel and save it. Great!! Wonderful!! "serious but massively sarcastic"


Best advise:
Now smash that z-offset down till it prints right. Do not just go by leveling alone, go by printing. Personally what i do is make a block in tinkcercad, 10mm x 6mm x 8mm high 15% infill is fine. Then put it in all seven spots on the bed in your slicer that you manually bed level. Do a 5mm brim. With this I go around and adjust all my knobs till each and every spot on my bad has the exact same brim squish and honestly i don't leave them looking super smooth. Another way to tell is if you have seperation in your brim lines, if you do its not gonna stick and your going to have a blob on your nozzle that may cause you a super headache if left till it drys.

If your brim don't look like this below.... Smash either that z-offset down more, or use the knobs on your bed in each corner to get it lifted up. Z-offset and adjusting knobs is kinda the same thing so don't do both. Do one or the other.

Typically with a flat bed and say hairspray you can leave the brim not looking all smashed and it sticks. Not so much with textured PEI sheets that don't require anything to stick to.


Again zoom in and really look at these brims, they are smashed pretty hard "high squish". These are all prints that were 15 to 30 hours and successful. Mash that stuff down sir.

View attachment 351859View attachment 351858




You don't even have to zoom in on this picture lolol... Look at that brim in the front left corner, its so smashed it looks crappy and not smooth..


View attachment 351857

Yeahh i will go do that as well! im sure you have 100% right that will fix it yes )
many thanks for your really good Advise and tips !!