Notorious New servo, mount and arm problems

[Matschik2023]

Hello, I hope somebody can help me? I am in the process of installing a new servo, servo mount and servo horn. As you can hopefully see in the picture, the distance between the steering lever and the steering linkage is too large. Does anyone have an idea what this could be or is there a solution for it?

Greetings Martin

 

[Tex Koder]

Hello, I hope somebody can help me? I am in the process of installing a new servo, servo mount and servo horn. As you can hopefully see in the picture, the distance between the steering lever and the steering linkage is too large. Does anyone have an idea what this could be or is there a solution for it?

Greetings Martin

View attachment 323453

Use a spare brass bushing to take up the slack..

 

[SrC]

+1
Or stack some washers to make sure the "link" remains level, like the stock setup. Link must remain level. This shimming is commonly done with most upgrade servos and Links/Arms and even the stocker arm and link when running taller profile upgrade servos.
Also make sure the servo when mounted, the servo's bottom is not touching the chassis. It must float above the chassis with at least 1-2 mm of chassis/servo clearance.
So, the servo in its mount is shimmed first as needed, Then you shim the link making it level as needed. The taller the servo profile is in it's mount, requires more shimming at the link.
FWIW, I never felt that the HR link/arm is all that great. For a few reasons... And there's nothing wrong with the stock setup. I never broke a single stocker setup with the many 6s rigs I have here.
Unless you like that HR Red Bling.....

 

[Garcbomber]

That new horn doesn’t have the thread depth the OEM has, could be as simple as adding a nut or spacers between to compensate.

 

[slick2500]

Pretty sure that silver washer is supposed to be under the arm and not on top.

 

[Matschik2023]

That new horn doesn’t have the thread depth the OEM has, could be as simple as adding a nut or spacers between to compensate.

If I mount the servo without these brass bushings, the height is correct. Is that OK, or a bad solution?

 

[SrC]

Not sure what you are describing here. What Brass bushings, where? The 4 brass Eyelets on the servo mount ears ?

>> Like I said above, first mount the servo itself so the bottom does not touch the chassis. It must float above the chassis. aprox 1-2 mm. Because chassis flex can touch the servo. NG.
However you need to acomplish that. Only then shim the Link as needed so it is level. The priority is the servo in its mount first.
FWIW, I don't use any of the stock brass eyelets and rubber bushings at all. I shim with washers or servo specific spacers. Like the stocker ones, if need be.
But I rather use Servo specific alloy washers just under the 4 servo mounting screws.
I use Reefs RC ones along with 4 Flathead M3 screws. More rigid mounting this way and the Reefs washers keep the servo square and centered with the mount. Nipples on these washers fit the servo ears perfectly. No need for the crappy cheap eyelets and rubber bushings anymore. This is how most of the track guys setup their servos properly. And it is clean and neat. One and done.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932341779...1291&msclkid=d1c2d6635914126c6f6ab36ea69a590b

 

[Garcbomber]

If I mount the servo without these brass bushings, the height is correct. Is that OK, or a bad solution?

Yep, I don't use rubber isolators with my high quality servos either. If you have a feeler gauge, I like to see at least .040-.060" between the chassis and servo base for mount flex on a basher.

 

[SrC]

@Garcbomber ,
I know you don't play around either. Dead on.

.044=1.1mm roughly.
If the servo flat lead wire can fit and slide under the servo freely as a reference , you are likely good.

 

[332_RC]

Hello, I hope somebody can help me? I am in the process of installing a new servo, servo mount and servo horn. As you can hopefully see in the picture, the distance between the steering lever and the steering linkage is too large. Does anyone have an idea what this could be or is there a solution for it?

Greetings Martin

View attachment 323453

Yep I went thru the same process w my Notorious. I got a adjustable link & shimmed it up w 3mm washers. It worked great!

Yep I went thru the same process w my Notorious. I got a adjustable link & shimmed it up w 3mm washers. It worked great!

 

[slick2500]

Not sure what you are describing here. What Brass bushings, where? The 4 brass Eyelets on the servo mount ears ?

>> Like I said above, first mount the servo itself so the bottom does not touch the chassis. It must float above the chassis. aprox 1-2 mm. Because chassis flex can touch the servo. NG.
However you need to acomplish that. Only then shim the Link as needed so it is level. The priority is the servo in its mount first.
FWIW, I don't use any of the stock brass eyelets and rubber bushings at all. I shim with washers or servo specific spacers. Like the stocker ones, if need be.
But I rather use Servo specific alloy washers just under the 4 servo mounting screws.
I use Reefs RC ones along with 4 Flathead M3 screws. More rigid mounting this way and the Reefs washers keep the servo square and centered with the mount. Nipples on these washers fit the servo ears perfectly. No need for the crappy cheap eyelets and rubber bushings anymore. This is how most of the track guys setup their servos properly. And it is clean and neat. One and done.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932341779...1291&msclkid=d1c2d6635914126c6f6ab36ea69a590b


View attachment 323498

View attachment 323499

View attachment 323500

I think he is talking about the brass bushings that go in the rubber washers that are mounted to the factory servo.

 

[332_RC]

Hello, I hope somebody can help me? I am in the process of installing a new servo, servo mount and servo horn. As you can hopefully see in the picture, the distance between the steering lever and the steering linkage is too large. Does anyone have an idea what this could be or is there a solution for it?

Greetings Martin

View attachment 323453

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3854869746...q7FPNHENTvG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

 

[Matschik2023]

I think he is talking about the brass bushings that go in the rubber washers that are mounted to the factory servo

That's exactly what I man.

 

[slick2500]

That's exactly what I man.

Eliminate those and the rubber things.

 

[332_RC]

View attachment 323519https://www.ebay.com/itm/3854869746...q7FPNHENTvG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

This adjustable link made it possible to fine tune my steering because the HT servo was taller which is why I needed the washer shims & I adjusted this link a little longer than stock or the solid aluminum one. Horn is centered & full lock to lock steering. Also added aluminum bell crank, aluminum HD servo saver, & EXB steering plate (ackerman plate)

 

[slick2500]

This adjustable link made it possible to fine tune my steering because the HT servo was taller which is why I needed the washer shims & I adjusted this link a little longer than stock or the solid aluminum one. Horn is centered & full lock to lock steering. Also added aluminum bell crank, aluminum HD servo saver, & EXB steering plate (ackerman plate)

Just a heads up the EXB Ackerman isn't much better than the stock one as it will bend just the same.

 

[332_RC]

Just a heads up the EXB Ackerman isn't much better than the stock one as it will bend just the same.

Yeah. I bent the stock one & snapped a steering pin so I replaced the pins & the plate. Advantage was the EXB plate was slightly thicker by about 0.008" & it tightened up the steering slop. Maybe it will do a while. Anything any stronger out there?

 

[slick2500]

Yeah. I bent the stock one & snapped a steering pin so I replaced the pins & the plate. Advantage was the EXB plate was slightly thicker by about 0.008" & it tightened up the steering slop. Maybe it will do a while. Anything any stronger out there?

I've been having decent luck with the M2C Racing ones but they are slightly thinner than stock and need some shimming or bearings added to help get rid of some of the play.

 

[332_RC]

I've been having decent luck with the M2C Racing ones but they are slightly thinner than stock and need some shimming or bearings added to help get rid of some of the play.

M2C racing. I'll check that out! And I have some shim assortments. Cool thanks!