Fireteam New to spektrum 150

[quiznatodd bidness]

I just received my first ever 6s esc from Jenny’s (off a fireteam). I have it only running on 3s at the moment, but will be ordering 4s batteries in the future, of course I might connect 2 3s’s for 6s at some point.
So out of the box, what settings/options would you guys recommend checking/changing for a good SCT style bash racer? I’m running a 3665 2400kv motor off a kraton with a 20t pinion (4s chassis and parts) until I get 4s batteries.

 

[jkflow]

Change the timing to 15. The 22 range will cook motor and ESC quickly for very little or no gain.
Rest is ok on stock settings.
If you are setting this without a programmer, option 3 might not even be available as there is no selection to make. Just listen to the beeps but suggest getting a compatible programmer. Follow recommendations for brake force which depends on your preferred surface. My opinion, set it high and dial it down on your transmitter (if you have one that can do it).

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I just received my first ever 6s esc from Jenny’s (off a fireteam). I have it only running on 3s at the moment, but will be ordering 4s batteries in the future, of course I might connect 2 3s’s for 6s at some point.
So out of the box, what settings/options would you guys recommend checking/changing for a good SCT style bash racer? I’m running a 3665 2400kv motor off a kraton with a 20t pinion (4s chassis and parts) until I get 4s batteries.

So you got the ESC from a fireteam, the motor and chassis from a kraton, but you're running a SCT? Grabbing parts from other trucks isn't an issue, i'm just having a tough time following which truck it is you're going to be driving. Punch and braking levels would change (for me) depending on which truck it is and the setup.

 

[Dales396lt4]

A 20T on 4S will heat up the motor very quickly and if you try and drive it slowly it will cog the motor with any timing at all. I run the 150ESC in my K4sv2 with 2400kv motor, I have both 2050KV and it uses a different setup. My setup on the 2400KV is 15t and 0 timing on 4s. I still have to watch out for the heat. after a full (4S 7200 120c) it will need some time to cool down. I try not to go over 150F.

 

[Dan B.]

I’m unclear as well. What chassis is this combo being installed in? If it’s in a 1/8 or 1/7 6s rig then that 3665kv motor is not going to be your friend. Assuming because you posted in the 6s section. Is this going in your Granite? If so, totally different animal.
If you describe your build you’ll get better recommendations.

 

[KratonBuilder]

So you got the ESC from a fireteam, the motor and chassis from a kraton, but you're running a SCT? Grabbing parts from other trucks isn't an issue, i'm just having a tough time following which truck it is you're going to be driving. Punch and braking levels would change (for me) depending on which truck it is and the setup.

I’m unclear as well. What chassis is this combo being installed in? If it’s in a 1/8 or 1/7 6s rig then that 3665kv motor is not going to be your friend. Assuming because you posted in the 6s section. Is this going in your Granite? If so, totally different animal.
If you describe your build you’ll get better recommendations.

Looks to me like he's running a Typhon 3s.

 

[Daywalker_27]

Wait, never even thought of this. I’m expecting a replacement ESC FL for my Kraton 6S, does this need to be programmed?

I just thought I’d run it on default settings like how my Kraton came out of the box.

 

[Dales396lt4]

I'm assuming you're referring to a replacement 6s ESC. If so, It will run fine on the default settings, but you can always go in and tailor it to the way you prefer.

 

[Daywalker_27]

I'm assuming you're referring to a replacement 6s ESC. If so, It will run fine on the default settings, but you can always go in and tailor it to the way you prefer.

After seeing this post I just realized their may have been the chance the ESC may not have been configured for the Kraton.

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

For all those asking for specifics, this is a 4s parts build, so LWB with 4s v2 arms and axles, but still with 2.8 badlands. I’m only running the 20t pinion to compensate for only having 3s power right now.
Still rocking my original granite body that I’ve had to cut up to fit. I debated posting in the 4x4 threads, but with the 6s esc in question, I figured the people here would also be familiar with 4s chassis’s.

 

[RCbuzz]

I run my timing at 0

 

[jkflow]

Wait, never even thought of this. I’m expecting a replacement ESC FL for my Kraton 6S, does this need to be programmed?

I just thought I’d run it on default settings like how my Kraton came out of the box.

After seeing this post I just realized their may have been the chance the ESC may not have been configured for the Kraton.

The only bad default setting is the timing. 15 is ideal for our motors. 22 gives a little more high-end speed but a lot of extra heat. You gain maybe 1-2mpph which you will never notice during bashing while you have 20% more heat (pulled that number out of my fuzzy behind, but it's noticeable).

 

[RCbuzz]

The only bad default setting is the timing. 15 is ideal for our motors. 22 gives a little more high-end speed but a lot of extra heat. You gain maybe 1-2mpph which you will never notice during bashing while you have 20% more heat (pulled that number out of my fuzzy behind, but it's noticeable).

I guess I am captain slow .

Don't mind the decrease in top end for the efficiency gains, torque, and additional run time.

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

Good to know. I didn’t even know timing was a thing in the RC world until yesterday.

So far I’ll be switching the motor direction, bumping up the punch, and down the timing

 

[jkflow]

Timimg rule of thumb:
Y-wound motors 10-17 degree (All stock Firma, typically in the datasheets, do 15 deg)
D-wound 0-5 degree

Any other setting will result in more heat and inefficiencies. Very few exceptions, and those are typically advertised by the motor manufacturer.

This is for general use, not top peak speed runs, but many d-wound will simply burn out on any setting above recommended ones. Y-wound are a little more tolerant.

Edit: Timing really helps at high rpm and will provide more power, as a byproduct it will just eat more power at lower rpms with no real gain and simply create heat as a waste product. More energy required to get the rpm going as magnets are out of alignment.
Bashing etc is usually in the mid-rpm range except for few spurts, hence my recommendation. Doing 50 vs 51mph on grass is somewhat pointless imho get a bigger pinion instead.