Outcast Outcast 4s slipper clutch lock nut - still slipping

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Hi guys, have the 4x4 Outcast 4s and after 1 year decided to service the slipper clutch (plus some other stuff).

Purchased the slipper clutch maintenance set (ARAC9103) along with 4 x slipper pads (ARA310908) and slipper plate and hub set.

Put it all back together - new lock nut in - ran for about 10 mins and after a 10 metre wheelie it starts slipping!!

Will take it apart and inspect - but wondered if you still need to use loctite (red/blue) on the screw??

...and how is the lock nut meant to stop the screw backing out??

Any help appreciated :)
 
Ide like to know myself . Every time I've tried to put one back together it does the exact same thing 3s and 4s slipper assembly. Sorry im no help ide just like to know the answer myself.
 
When you installed the lock did you apply some pressure to it when you were screwing the slipper back together? some times the lock nut doesn’t catch the screw properly.
 
...and how is the lock nut meant to stop the screw backing out??

Any help appreciated :)
When you installed the lock did you apply some pressure to it when you were screwing the slipper back together? some times the lock nut doesn’t catch the screw properly.
Did you make sure the screw went into the lock nut? Push something into the back of the slipper to hold down the lock nut when screwing in the screw. Otherwise the screw will just push the lock nut out. I haven't had a problem since I upgraded to the lock nut system. I didn't use any loc-tite. Loosening up the screw from full tight might help. I keep mine 1-1/4 turns from full tight.
 
And I snapped the screw rhe other day trying to take it out of the 3s to add on a slipper pad and steel spur. Was ridiculous. Snapped it taking off not putting on. Upsetting. Then I ordered a maintenance kit from ebay and the seller sent me someones diffs for another vehicle.🤣😤
 
And I snapped the screw rhe other day trying to take it out of the 3s to add on a slipper pad and steel spur. Was ridiculous. Snapped it taking off not putting on. Upsetting. Then I ordered a maintenance kit from ebay and the seller sent me someones diffs for another vehicle.🤣😤
Damn, keep the diffs and get another maintenance kit.
 
When you installed the lock did you apply some pressure to it when you were screwing the slipper back together?
good point - I can't 100% say I did this!

I've put it back together and used red loctite - waited 36hrs - and so far so good - ran for 20 minutes and still wheelies like a beast (backed out the screw 1.5 turns)

BTW, it's now got the Hobbywing 4274 Max 8 set in it with a 20 tooth pinion (13 was standard) and it goes great - the 4274 just fits in as you need to slide it in with the slipper clutch - the Max 8 ESC just fits as well!

Also fitted the driveshaft bearing stabiliser thingy...

After running the Outcast 4s 4x4 for nearly 1 year it needed a replacement 13T input shaft - front and rear - I initially thought I had the wrong part as it was shorter and the head seemed much larger - but I realised the old ones must have just worn down!
 
Lots of red theardlock for me. I grease that 3 piece bearing use the plastic cover and hide the holes on the front hub. It takes a while to remove the screw when u want to do maintenance because of the build up threadlock at the end of the screw you can use a air compressor to blow the extra out.
good point - I can't 100% say I did this!

I've put it back together and used red loctite - waited 36hrs - and so far so good - ran for 20 minutes and still wheelies like a beast (backed out the screw 1.5 turns)

BTW, it's now got the Hobbywing 4274 Max 8 set in it with a 20 tooth pinion (13 was standard) and it goes great - the 4274 just fits in as you need to slide it in with the slipper clutch - the Max 8 ESC just fits as well!

Also fitted the driveshaft bearing stabiliser thingy...

After running the Outcast 4s 4x4 for nearly 1 year it needed a replacement 13T input shaft - front and rear - I initially thought I had the wrong part as it was shorter and the head seemed much larger - but I realised the old ones must have just worn down!
The sun gears does wear down. The teeths are oversized and has to break in to have that perfect mesh. Arrma isnt putting that shim for nothing. Sure a new diff is rough but fter 1 run it spins smoothly
 
hi. I tried evertyhing from locktite, new slipper nut assembly, drilling it out with for a 3 mm screw and standard locknut( it fits in the slipper shaft - but still not getting the slipper to hold - after half a pack it always gets loose .
I really love my 4s besides that.
Thinking about locking it completely - cheap fix - screw through or the HR slipper eliminator. I know this will stress the drive train more - but with adjusted punch and the flexing drive shafts it should work .

I don't know why arrma doesn't release a ball diff as upgrade something like that should fit if done right.
Or a real redesign with a standard diff.
greetz
 
hi. I tried evertyhing from locktite, new slipper nut assembly, drilling it out with for a 3 mm screw and standard locknut( it fits in the slipper shaft - but still not getting the slipper to hold - after half a pack it always gets loose .
I really love my 4s besides that.
Thinking about locking it completely - cheap fix - screw through or the HR slipper eliminator. I know this will stress the drive train more - but with adjusted punch and the flexing drive shafts it should work .

I don't know why arrma doesn't release a ball diff as upgrade something like that should fit if done right.
Or a real redesign with a standard diff.
greetz

the V2 slipper clutch works well, you can try that
 
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