Granite Slipper clutch delete

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I purchased my Big Rock a year ago, it came with the nut. I did some work on it and forgot to put the nut back in and It would not stop backing out no matter what I did until I realized it was laying on my work bench šŸ¤£
Hey that's ok
I purchased my Big Rock a year ago, it came with the nut. I did some work on it and forgot to put the nut back in and It would not stop backing out no matter what I did until I realized it was laying on my work bench šŸ¤£
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...e-last-time-you-had-one-šŸ˜šŸ‘lets-hear-it.62589/. Yup you had a simple brain fartšŸ¤ÆšŸ’ØšŸ¤£šŸ¤£
 
Purchased s 3s senton and typhon over a year ago. Both had the nut on the slipper. I use the rear wheel drag method to adjust slippers. Both rigs are run off road only and screw never backs out and have never used loc tite. Maybe just lucky. Eliminating slipper not a good idea for off road jumping and such. Steel spur gears are not the answer.
 
Purchased s 3s senton and typhon over a year ago. Both had the nut on the slipper. I use the rear wheel drag method to adjust slippers. Both rigs are run off road only and screw never backs out and have never used loc tite. Maybe just lucky.
Before I locked all of my slippers I also never used lock tight.i don't believe lock tite should be used on a slipper.just my opinion
 
Some guys never touch their slippers with Zero complaints.
Just when they do fail, adjusting them can be a bear. It is a wearable component that will need adressing at some point.
It's very Tempting to delete that Crap altogether, but definitely expect more drive train issues down the road. A given.
It's just a common 4x4 thing. I've seen way better slipper clutch setups with other Brand RC's. IMHO.
Arrma is not one of them.
They can be rather needy.
Try running a 4x4 4s Center diff upgrade. Not an easy task, but surely can be done.
 
Well, there's 3 Big Rocks, 3 Granites, 2 Typhons and a Senton in my family and friends. None of them came with the plastic nut in them. When I had to rebuild the first one, (bent an output shaft) I was confused as what to do with it. Every thing on-line and the LHS said it was used for the 4S models. We've never used them.

Watched a video for that first one. Said to clean everything with a de-greaser. Put blue locktite on the threads. Tighten down as hard as you can and back off 1/4 turn. I do prop it up so the lock tite can only go into the threads. Leave it sit for 24 hrs. ALL of us have done this with no issues. No slipping. No screw coming undone. Only rebuild them because a hard landing bent something or stripped the spur. Which is usually the case. We are not easy on them.

Not sure what you're doing wrong. Has to be something else. You said it was stock. Running 4S in it? No clue.
 
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Yes, older versions did not have the plastic nut. I run without them and they seem to hold fine with blue loctite.
I never felt standard TL to be good with plastic parts. TL is acidic. And specifically works for metal on metal. How I see it.
I would prefer using Shoogoo/E6000 sparingly, let it dry well when I have the need. And easily removable.
But those Plastic nuts are just consumable items at some point IMHO. Seems once you wrench on them a fewtimes, they can fail more easily. That's why left untouched out the box, they tend to stay put, until you mess with them. It's just an Arrma 4x4 thing.
 
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