Overheating/cooling issue

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quiznatodd bidness

Active Member
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Location
Northern Colorado
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
I decided recently that I should upgrade the stock 3s cooling fans in my granite as I was getting quite hot and sometimes shutting down in the middle of runs. The last couple “light” runs the truck has shut down from heat on the esc -I thought.

Now, I’m running 40mm fans on both the motor and esc with a separate 2s battery. Maiden voyage on just a storage charge from the 3s battery results in the truck going to low-power mode again after only 60 sec or so. I checked to make sure the battery wasn’t dead, and indeed it was at 40%. I know it’s not too hot now, so what could be making it shutdown??
 
Did you check all the things like gear mesh and so on to make sure your truck isn't under increased load or binding?
 
Check to see if your drive train moves freely, remove the power module and roll it across the floor. If it rolls freely, then we check the motor and suspension.

See if you can turn the motor by hand, if it turns as it should, time to check the suspension. You can also pull the end bell off and check the motor bearings. If they are not spinning freely, but the internals for the motor appear to be in good shape, order up some new motor bearings.

Make sure each corner will go to max shock compression, and will freely move back down. Don’t just let go of the suspension arms while doing this, let them down slowly but not too slow. If they aren’t binding in any way, we move on to the esc.

Get a fully charged lipo, and let er rip! If it cuts out quickly, could be an esc issue. I would first try and reset the esc to factory settings and try again. If nothing, I have one more thing to try.

Buy a new esc 😂🤦🏻‍♂️ 40mm fans should be more than enough for a 3s system.
 
Oh yeah, the truck runs at full speed as normal for about 60 sec, then it cuts to like 25% power like it does when the battery is about to die. I unplugged the battery and tested it (40%) then plugged it back in and had full power and control for another 60 sec or so, and it cut to 25% again.

I can test the batteries and all, but didn’t know if Esc’s do that when they’re having they’re own life issues.

The only other question mark for me is the terminal that used to power the stock fan. Those 3 prongs are just sticking up now with nothing plugged into them. Does that confuse the esc?
Do it again and see what the esc's light sequence is displaying!?
I’ll check this as well. I’ve never noticed it doing anything other than blinking red when I turn it on. What does it do when it hits the thermal cutoff?
 
Oh yeah, the truck runs at full speed as normal for about 60 sec, then it cuts to like 25% power like it does when the battery is about to die. I unplugged the battery and tested it (40%) then plugged it back in and had full power and control for another 60 sec or so, and it cut to 25% again.

I can test the batteries and all, but didn’t know if Esc’s do that when they’re having they’re own life issues.

The only other question mark for me is the terminal that used to power the stock fan. Those 3 prongs are just sticking up now with nothing plugged into them. Does that confuse the esc?

I’ll check this as well. I’ve never noticed it doing anything other than blinking red when I turn it on. What does it do when it hits the thermal cutoff?
You read your handy dandy manual!?
 
It sounds like you have a weak cell in your battery. If you have a friend with a similar batter try his and see what happens. I think it's happening too fast for overheating.
 
You read your handy dandy manual!?
I paid a handy dandy $200 for the truck as used- like new. No box, no manual. Just because I printed one off later is besides the point.
It sounds like you have a weak cell in your battery. If you have a friend with a similar batter try his and see what happens. I think it's happening too fast for overheating.
Hmmm the battery tester is showing all cells are equal. I’ll do a full charge tomorrow and run it on both of my 3s batteries.

So it is fine to leave the fan terminal just open though, right?
 
It sounds like you have a weak cell in your battery. If you have a friend with a similar batter try his and see what happens. I think it's happening too fast for overheating.
I think you are correct. I swapped batteries and saw my second definitely has a cell that is about .15 to .05 lower than the other 2. When my batteries are fully charged the truck doesn’t shut off from heat (@Senton_Prime - the green light is not blinking, I looked it up), but my run times are lower on account of the weak cells. I also got a temp gun, and I’m running about 130 degrees after pushing the truck pretty hard at 100% power.
 
Oh yeah, the truck runs at full speed as normal for about 60 sec, then it cuts to like 25% power like it does when the battery is about to die. I unplugged the battery and tested it (40%) then plugged it back in and had full power and control for another 60 sec or so, and it cut to 25% again.

I can test the batteries and all, but didn’t know if Esc’s do that when they’re having they’re own life issues.

The only other question mark for me is the terminal that used to power the stock fan. Those 3 prongs are just sticking up now with nothing plugged into them. Does that confuse the esc?

I’ll check this as well. I’ve never noticed it doing anything other than blinking red when I turn it on. What does it do when it hits the thermal cutoff?
40% power remaining with any Lipo pack is a DEAD lipo at this point!
Why do you insist on running that pack at 40%??????? And keep questioning why you have LVC. The ESC light will flash Green ( thermal Cutting) if it is too hot. It will flash Red if the Lipo is under the volt threshold. (LVC)
Start with a Fully charged lipo and get back with your results. This will help us to help you better. The lipo may even be junk at this point. It only takes one cell to fail and cause this. A decent charger would usually, but not always indicate this.
Good luck.
:giggle:
 
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Oh yeah, the truck runs at full speed as normal for about 60 sec, then it cuts to like 25% power like it does when the battery is about to die. I unplugged the battery and tested it (40%) then plugged it back in and had full power and control for another 60 sec or so, and it cut to 25% again.
That is lvc kicking in. Use fully charged batteries.
 
40% power remaining with any Lipo pack is a DEAD lipo at this point!
Why do you insist on running that pack at 40%??????? And keep questioning why you have LVC. The ESC light will flash Green ( thermal Cutting) if it is too hot. It will flash Red if the Lipo is under the volt threshold. (LVC)
Start with a Fully charged lipo and get back with your results. This will help us to help you better. The lipo may even be junk at this point. It only takes one cell to fail and cause this. A decent charger would usually, but not always indicate this.
Good luck.
:giggle:
…”insist” is a pretty strong word. I used it because that’s what I had on hand to test my new fans. The question was also never if I had lvc, but if I had heat issues. I’ve never had one shutdown so fast, so I didn’t immediately assume the battery was bad. I did test with a full battery and you can see my result post right before yours.
I do appreciate all you guys for trying to help. I posted here because I knew I could count on your expertise and quick answers! I do believe I have it figured now. 👍
 
I paid a handy dandy $200 for the truck as used- like new. No box, no manual. Just because I printed one off later is besides the point.

Hmmm the battery tester is showing all cells are equal. I’ll do a full charge tomorrow and run it on both of my 3s batteries.

So it is fine to leave the fan terminal just open though, right?
Yeah esc fan pin outs are fine exposed from a running standpoint. You may want to place a blank plug over it perhaps. But it is not critical At all.
 
Yeah esc fan pin outs are fine exposed from a running standpoint. You may want to place a blank plug over it perhaps. But it is not critical At all.
Thanks for confirming that. I had to make adaptor plates for the 40mm fans to bolt onto the same mount points. The overhang actually covers those pins from getting bent or something.
 
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