Typhon TLR Tuned cooling

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JP Bashed

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Hi

I’m very new to the RC world but am loving the hobby.

I first bought an MT8 which has cost me a fortune turning it into an extreme bash version. I am even manufacturing my own parts.

After the MT8 purchase I bought a Typhon TLR tuned 6S. Wow what a difference in how tough this thing is.

So happy with the Typhon it’s an incredible bit of kit.

Anyway there doesn’t seem to be much out there to aid the cooling of the motor.

I searched this forum and even saw a guy using a server style fan which looked amazing.

Anyway the issue is the Arrma heat sink and fan go on the motor but you can’t get the cover on. Not sure about other versions but defiantly not on the TLR tuned.

I searched a fair bit and found something that fits and works really well.

So I thought I would share the link on ebay and some photos to help out anyone else with the same problems.

Surpsshobby Heatsink Cooling Fan for Hobbywing Leopard 4268 1/8 1/10 RC Car

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13395982...anvmT8BQnO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Surpsshobby Fan

came from China but was a pretty quick delivery 2 weeks exactly from the supplier in the link.

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Hey

@senton__prime that’s a fair comment and I welcome any advise as I’m fairly new to this hobby. I have read a lot of controversy over heat sinks and fans. Some say heat sink now fan, some say both and as you state the casing acts as the main HS which makes sense. Nice one. I will give this a go and see how well it cools the motor. The fans as super powerful on this setup and lots of airflow so I am hoping it makes a big difference.

@Luke66 nice one bro thanks for the welcome and comment.
 
I'd chuck the HS if I were you and just get some fan mounts, its a lil redundant since the motor can acts as the primary HS.. just an opinion 😎
At risk of going back through the whole debate again, the common school of thought seems to favor heat sink/fan assemblies on smooth can motors, and simple fan mounts on finned can motors. Those favoring the heat sink might also suggest that the heat sink is essentially worthless if installed without thermal paste. I believe that theoretically that may be true, but I also believe that a vented heat sink with dual fans (like OP shows) will be more than adequate with intelligent gearing choices.
And yo, welcome aboard @JP Bashed !
 
At risk of going back through the whole debate again, the common school of thought seems to favor heat sink/fan assemblies on smooth can motors, and simple fan mounts on finned can motors. Those favoring the heat sink might also suggest that the heat sink is essentially worthless if installed without thermal paste. I believe that theoretically that may be true, but I also believe that a vented heat sink with dual fans (like OP shows) will be more than adequate with intelligent gearing choices.
And yo, welcome aboard @JP Bashed !
Thanks for the welcome buddy, yo yo yo.

All makes sense but feel like the thermal paste is a bit over the top and from my experience only beneficial when trying to secure a HS to a computer CPU or similar.

The HS clamps round the motor pretty tightly and the mechanical connection should be sufficient to help transfer the heat from the outer casing.

Either way this is going to be better than nothing and I’m using the standard 16T pinion so will see how it goes.

I might even get the thermal gun out and record it like a pro 😂😉 or just use my finger which if I can hold on for 3 seconds or more should be good for some more running.

Haven’t run in the summer yet so I guess that will be the biggest test.

Did some speed runs with the stock wheels on and the motor was absolutely fine.

Put some MT uphills on 1/10 scale and speed ran on long grass and that did cause the motor to get too hot! Be interesting to simulate that again with the HS & Fan now installed and see what difference there is.

Most the time we bash at skate parks and similar so it’s not usually an issue.

Love the hobby and I’ve already identified the hinge pins on all RC cars are an issue if you are bashing or doing high jumps. I can now provide any hinge pin for any car in titanium grade 5. This saves your hinges and lower arms from getting destroyed when the stock hinge pins bend.

Will do another post on this subject and see how many others have the same issue.
 
@JP Bashed - on the Typhon "TLR tuned" specifically, the hinge pins bending is not the primary issue but the adjustment blocks on the hinge pin blocks themselves will break/tear.
Hey

Thanks for the heads up. The hinges have held up so far even after the hinge pins were at like 45 degree angles when removed.

Just disappointing that Arrma and Team Associated use weak metal for a part that needs to be strong.

If anything the hole on the shock tower opened up as it snapped the shock mount!

One day I’ll have a car that can take my abuse 😂
 
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