Kraton Power: 2x 3s at 50% vs 1x 3s at 100%?

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Lindenwood

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Hello! Loving my 6s Kraton v5. I only run pairs of 3S and I spend a majority of the time with the remote at 50% except for the occasional speed run for spectators.

I was wondering, though:

Is running 6 cells at 50% about the same performance and run time as 3 cells at 100%? I was thinking of just jumpering one of the receiving plugs and running a single 3s at 100% if I can get similar performance and run time!

Thanks!
 
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Welcome to the forum, from another newcomer! This is a great site.

I'm curious about the answer from people who have tried it.

In term of run time, if you have a 6S 5000, run at 50% throttle, and are considering using a single 3S 5000 at 100%, for instance, I'd expect you'll get less run time. 3S 5000 has half the stored energy of 6S 5000. So even considering 100% vs 50% power, there's just less "gas in the tank".

You COULD run a pair of 3S 5000's in parallel, for the same stored energy (and theoretical run time). But I've seen the suggestion of using a single 3S, and switching packs when the first is discharged. This keeps the vehicle lighter, for better performance, and there's less mass to break things during a crash.
 
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like most, I spend a majority of the time with the remote at 50%
:unsure:

I have never once ran any of my arrma or traxxas cars on 50%. When I first got back into RC in 2019 with 2s/3s cars I did start out on 2s but now I never go below the max volts at 100%.
 
:unsure:

I have never once ran any of my arrma or traxxas cars on 50%. When I first got back into RC in 2019 with 2s/3s cars I did start out on 2s but now I never go below the max volts at 100%.
Thanks for the anecdote. If that part of my post is going to be distracting to answering my actual question, Ill delete it.
 
Welcome to the forum, from another newcomer! This is a great site.

I'm curious about the answer from people who have tried it.

In term of run time, if you have a 6S 5000, run at 50% throttle, and are considering using a single 3S 5000 at 100%, for instance, I'd expect you'll get less run time. 3S 5000 has half the stored energy of 6S 5000. So even considering 100% vs 50% power, there's just less "gas in the tank".

You COULD run a pair of 3S 5000's in parallel, for the same stored energy (and theoretical run time). But I've seen the suggestion of using a single 3S, and switching packs when the first is discharged. This keeps the vehicle lighter, for better performance, and there's less mass to break things during a crash.
Thank you!

I ordered some 8000mah batteries and indeed had the same thought about being able to
Just swap in a single pack a few more times per session.

For dirt it is much easier to get away with full power, but on the street at 100% I can’t go full throttle until 40+ mph which makes it kind of pointless when trying to run courses rather than just speed runs back and forth.
 
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i think if i ran one 3s on my kraton it would be a bit slower & less pwr than 6s on 50%...the trick to run time aside from battery is turning down the motors timing
 
Hello! Loving my 6s Kraton v5. I only run pairs of 3S and I spend a majority of the time with the remote at 50% except for the occasional speed run for spectators.

I was wondering, though:

Is running 6 cells at 50% about the same performance and run time as 3 cells at 100%? I was thinking of just jumpering one of the receiving plugs and running a single 3s at 100% if I can get similar performance and run time!

Thanks!
Welcome to AF 👍
 
Validating my previous stance, I had some pretty good Sends using 100% on some dirt jumps. Then I tried 100% on the pavement, wheelied at 40+, cartwheeled for 50 feet, and broke a front upper arm :P .

Fortunately in my overall life (but not recently…) I have thousands of hours behind hobby-class RCs, so I had already ordered a spare set of diffs, bearings, carriers, steering blocks, and RPM arms, so I will be fine!
 
Validating my previous stance, I had some pretty good Sends using 100% on some dirt jumps. Then I tried 100% on the pavement, wheelied at 40+, cartwheeled for 50 feet, and broke a front upper arm :p .

Fortunately in my overall life (but not recently…) I have thousands of hours behind hobby-class RCs, so I had already ordered a spare set of diffs, bearings, carriers, steering blocks, and RPM arms, so I will be fine!
I think using the 3s lipo will be very close to 50% of a 6s so worth a shot! Something to keep in mind as well is the fact that you can lower the punch on your kraton to help combat the wheelies on 6s.
 
Validating my previous stance, I had some pretty good Sends using 100% on some dirt jumps. Then I tried 100% on the pavement, wheelied at 40+, cartwheeled for 50 feet, and broke a front upper arm :p .

Fortunately in my overall life (but not recently…) I have thousands of hours behind hobby-class RCs, so I had already ordered a spare set of diffs, bearings, carriers, steering blocks, and RPM arms, so I will be fine!
What weight oil in in your centre diff out of interest?
 
I think using the 3s lipo will be very close to 50% of a 6s so worth a shot! Something to keep in mind as well is the fact that you can lower the punch on your kraton to help combat the wheelies on 6s.
Good to note! I went back through the manual and found this. By “punch” would this mean the speed at which torque is increased, regardless of how quickly one applies throttle?
What weight oil in in your centre diff out of interest?
I bought it used and am not sure, but wouldnt be too surprised if it has higher than 100k since he did said he rebuilt the diffs at one point. That said, the front tires still balloon significantly at 100% on pavement (to include at lower speeds when lifting the front), and I like a little looser rear for dirt, so I’ll be adding 500k per what seems to be a common recommendation.
 
Good to note! I went back through the manual and found this. By “punch” would this mean the speed at which torque is increased, regardless of how quickly one applies throttle?

I bought it used and am not sure, but wouldnt be too surprised if it has higher than 100k since he did said he rebuilt the diffs at one point. That said, the front tires still balloon significantly at 100% on pavement (to include at lower speeds when lifting the front), and I like a little looser rear for dirt, so I’ll be adding 500k per what seems to be a common recommendation.
I think you have it about right. How fast the power hits as you get on the throttle. 😎 👍
 
idk what youve heard, but i know my kraton came w 10k in front and rear diffs, and 100k in center...since going aluminum center w 200k, i changed front to 50k. 500k is way to thick
 
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