Slop in aluminum 3s diff yoke?

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Hector_Fisher

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Kraton EXB
Maybe it shouldn't surprise me, but would you consider this detrimental slop for the input gear?

Just got the RCAWD aluminum diff yoke and CNC steel diff. The input has almost no slop when installed with the stock composite yoke that came with the CNC diff, but lots of slop with the aluminum one. I guess I could try to shim the input so it's always "slopped" to one direction, but that just seems like a poor practice.

 
For my 2 cents worth, looks like to much slop. These darn aftermarket parts companies do this all to often. New bearings on the drive pinion?
 
Maybe it shouldn't surprise me, but would you consider this detrimental slop for the input gear?

Just got the RCAWD aluminum diff yoke and CNC steel diff. The input has almost no slop when installed with the stock composite yoke that came with the CNC diff, but lots of slop with the aluminum one. I guess I could try to shim the input so it's always "slopped" to one direction, but that just seems like a poor practice.

Wow, that is really bad. The one I got (same brand) did not do that and I set it up with a metal diff as well. I think I’ll steer free of it though if some of them are like that. Did you get it off of Amazon? Return it if you did and drop the additional 10 bucks for a hot racing one.
Man, it’s one thing if it moved in and out a little bit, that could be shimmed. But side to side? Total crap. Bummer man, sorry you got a poor one.
 
For my 2 cents worth, looks like to much slop. These darn aftermarket parts companies do this all to often. New bearings on the drive pinion?
Yeah everything's new. All came with the CNC diff.
Wow, that is really bad. The one I got (same brand) did not do that and I set it up with a metal diff as well. I think I’ll steer free of it though if some of them are like that. Did you get it off of Amazon? Return it if you did and drop the additional 10 bucks for a hot racing one.
Man, it’s one thing if it moved in and out a little bit, that could be shimmed. But side to side? Total crap. Bummer man, sorry you got a poor one.
So if I add three shims or so to the ring side, it kind of makes the slop a little better. But yeah there is still slop. Kind of disappointing. I'll return and either consider just running the composite one or seeing how much the hot racing one is.

You think the hot racing one would be any better? (Granted it could be that a new RCAWD one might be fine as well)
 
Yeah everything's new. All came with the CNC diff.

So if I add three shims or so to the ring side, it kind of makes the slop a little better. But yeah there is still slop. Kind of disappointing. I'll return and either consider just running the composite one or seeing how much the hot racing one is.

You think the hot racing one would be any better? (Granted it could be that a new RCAWD one might be fine as well)
I have 7 of the hot racing ones and all have been solid after 18+ months use. I noticed they feel a bit heavier than the off brand one when comparing them. I’ll be looking at the one. Ill look closely at the RCAWD one I have when I pull it out of my 4S build for servicing in a month or so. Curious to see if it holds up as well as the HR ones. I think the HR ones are CNCd. I know the RCAWD is definitely not. Yup, I’ll definitely compare them closely when I pull them out.
 
I have 7 of the hot racing ones and all have been solid after 18+ months use. I noticed they feel a bit heavier than the off brand one when comparing them. I’ll be looking at the one. Ill look closely at the RCAWD one I have when I pull it out of my 4S build for servicing in a month or so. Curious to see if it holds up as well as the HR ones. I think the HR ones are CNCd. I know the RCAWD is definitely not. Yup, I’ll definitely compare them closely when I pull them out.
Any update on this Velo? Just curious as it seems there are quite of few aftermarket providers now.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804932567488.html

Never know for sure but I am guessing most of them originate from the same place. (Probably not the HR one though)

I am needing to pickup a couple of these, no sense in getting them if the tolerances are that bad.
 
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Any update on this Velo? Just curious as it seems there are quite of few aftermarket providers now.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804932567488.html

Never know for sure but I am guessing most of them originate from the same place.

I am needing to pickup a couple of these as well, no sense in getting them if the tolerances are that bad.
FWIW, the tolerances between this one and the HR one i replaced it with are night and day. Ended up returning the RCAWD one.

HR one still had a ever so slightly wiggle (similar to the stock composite one), but nothing that concerned me. Not sure if maybe I just got a lemon RCAWD one, but I will definitely spend the few dollars more and buy the HR one in the future based on my experience.

The aliexpress one is only like $15 though. Cheap as chips.... It's cast, not machined, but it could be that the tolerances stack up in the right way and make a good fit. Might be worth a try. If you're willing to take a gamble, the risk might pay off?
 
Any update on this Velo? Just curious as it seems there are quite of few aftermarket providers now.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804932567488.html

Never know for sure but I am guessing most of them originate from the same place.

I am needing to pickup a couple of these as well, no sense in getting them if the tolerances are that bad.
It’s been great! No issues at all. It’s in one of my 4s builds.
 
Fwiw...Since your original post I have purchased the HR yokes as well as the cnc 4s diffs from Jenny's. Zero slop in that input gear. I did add a shim or two on the ring side of the ring gear. I have them for the rear only on both our 3s typhons. It is absolutely the best and pretty much the only upgrade I've done besides new pivot balls which were garbage and trb bearings. The mesh is smooth as ice! The HR ones are $32.88 off there site.
 
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FWIW, the tolerances between this one and the HR one i replaced it with are night and day. Ended up returning the RCAWD one.

HR one still had a ever so slightly wiggle (similar to the stock composite one), but nothing that concerned me. Not sure if maybe I just got a lemon RCAWD one, but I will definitely spend the few dollars more and buy the HR one in the future based on my experience.

The aliexpress one is only like $15 though. Cheap as chips.... It's cast, not machined, but it could be that the tolerances stack up in the right way and make a good fit. Might be worth a try. If you're willing to take a gamble, the risk might pay off?
Lemons like in this situation are due to poor factory CNC tolerances. The BB's should be more of a Press fit. They are far from it. Crappy machines go out of tolerance. Need calibrating. Poor QC never catches it. And then we end up with garbage Upgrade parts like this example. I will venture to guess that Hundreds of these poor examples were made. I will bet most people using a bad one never even notice and never return them. Without a discerning eye for detail.
I would not chance a replacement.(n)
I've bought many RCAWD parts for my Crawlers. Not the best stuff when it comes to their precision Drivetrain parts. And always dam expensive, Like RCAWD is the best. NOT.
RCAWD was originally a Crawler Upgrade Company. Then they ventured into other basher platforms. Their 6s V1 LIM/Infr/Fel Drive shaft Dog bones suck. been there. Stock are way better. Yet RCAWD states they are better and re-designed as a "Fix" to the Stocker bones. NOT.(n)

Thanks for sharing this one. :cool:
 
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Hi Hector_Fisher, everyone. Thanks for posting your experiences. Are your HR yokes still holding up well? I read this thread and still bought the RCAWD yoke because the HR parts are expensive for me in England. I hoped the sloppy RCAWD was a one off but sadly not. There was a large amount of movement due to a poor fit on the input shaft bearings. You could clearly see them move and once assembled the shaft wobbled just like your video. I returned it to Amazon for a refund.

I took a chance on an unbranded one from a Chinese vendor on eBay called easpuk for £19. It looks the same as the Aliexpress link RCbuzz posted above. It is described as "Differential Shell For ARRMA 1/10 Bigrock 3S BLX/Kratoon 4S BLX/Senate 3S BLX*". LOL at the misspellings. It turned out good with a tight fit on the bearings, cutouts to provide access to the CVD grub screw once it's installed, and larger 2.5mm socket cap head screws instead of 2mm socket button head, so there less chance of rounding them. The screws go in alternate sides whereas they are on the same side on the RCAWD part. And the location features are different. But this one is missing the small protrusion on the inside which prevents you from fitting the diff the wrong way around. If you do fit it the wrong way you'll know when you try to install it in the truck. Just be sure you're installing it the right way when you are checking your shim arrangement because that could make a difference. I had to buy a pack of shims (AR709049) to get a good fit but I needed them for the factory plastic yoke too. I don't think it's specific to this part. Now I have no slop and my diff spins freely so I'm happy. I have run three packs through it so far at the BMX track and the truck took a beating. It's too early to tell but so far so good.

Feature
RCAWD
Unbranded
Alignment​
Discrete Peg​
Part of Screw Hole​
Screw​
M3 Button Socket 2mm Hex​
Socket Cap 2.5mm​
Screw Position​
Same Side​
Alternate Side​
CVD Screw Cut-out​
No​
Yes​
Diff Orientation Peg​
Yes​
No​

Internal
Aluminium Yokes Internal.jpg


External
Aluminium Yokes External.jpg


Thanks for sharing. Hope this helps someone too.
 
Maybe it shouldn't surprise me, but would you consider this detrimental slop for the input gear?

Just got the RCAWD aluminum diff yoke and CNC steel diff. The input has almost no slop when installed with the stock composite yoke that came with the CNC diff, but lots of slop with the aluminum one. I guess I could try to shim the input so it's always "slopped" to one direction, but that just seems like a poor practice.

Yeah way too much slop in that video!:rolleyes:
 
Good info......and yes, my HR yokes are holding up perfectly.
 
All 5 or 6 of my HR yokes are holding up well after 2-3 years. They were worth the extra cost.
 
Good to hear the HR yokes are holding up. Fingers crossed for my unbranded ones🤞. Heading out to give it some stick now.
 
Good thing I came across this thread as I was JUST ABOUT to buy two of those sets. I’ll be going with the HR units instead.
 
Good thing I came across this thread as I was JUST ABOUT to buy two of those sets. I’ll be going with the HR units instead.
I've had my hr aluminum diffs,spiral cut diff and pinion gears and yoke for about 3 years. No issues, one of those buy ,install and forget about!! The gears show no signs of wear.
 
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