Big Rock Spur Gears keep getting eaten up, need help figuring out why

[bicketybam]

Fyi, the spring is not used nor is the little black nut that comes in the rebuild kit. This info comes right from horizon themselves.

I hope nobody read this and thinks it’s actualy true ?

 

[thegunsmith]

I hope nobody read this and thinks it’s actualy true ?

Glad someone finally said something about that, thank you for that. From what I understand he is correct in saying the black nut isn't used. Am I right? I have asked about it before but it seems everyone has a different idea.

Something worth noting here that I found when installing a hobbywing motor in my granite. When I installed the hobbywing 3200kv motor and put the pinion on the mesh between it and the spur gear was really tight. I used the cover to hold the spur in place with motor and pinion installed, I moved it around holding it together with the motor plate until I could could see what was going on. Seems like some of the pre drilled holes for the motor for different pinions are off slightly. I used a drill bit the same size as the pre drilled holes and wollered the 15 pinion holes out to an oval shape so that I could set the mesh myself. Now I have no more tight mesh or binding and it even runs quieter and smoother. I think this just may be your problem since spur gears aren't perfectly round. I would try to oval out the mounting holes on the motor mount for the pinion you're using to give you some adjustability for setting the mesh. This was just my experience and I believe it's what's causing motor and ESC failures, mesh is to tight from factory pre drilled motor mount holes for the pinions.

I may buy the HR adjustable mount and the HR steel spur. I still haven't figured out exactly what I want to do but I've been busy with work so I will have more time to figure it out come this weekend.
Does it look like mesh could be the problem? I am inexperienced when it comes to things like this. Thanks

 

[bicketybam]

Glad someone finally said something about that, thank you for that. From what I understand he is correct in saying the black nut isn't used. Am I right? I have asked about it before but it seems everyone has a different idea.

I may buy the HR adjustable mount and the HR steel spur. I still haven't figured out exactly what I want to do but I've been busy with work so I will have more time to figure it out come this weekend.
Does it look like mesh could be the problem? I am inexperienced when it comes to things like this. Thanks

All I can tell you is that I have had the Granite 3s since it released and the BRCC since it released and both are on the original spurs. I have changed esc's and motors, and even run 4s and the spurs are fine.

 

[Wags1]

Fyi, the spring is not used nor is the little black nut that comes in the rebuild kit. This info comes right from horizon themselves.

Have u rebuilt one? How do u know my statement is false?

 

[bicketybam]

Have u rebuilt one? How do u know my statement is false?

Yes. Because there has been a spring in every 3S slipper I have taken apart (3). And there is a spring in every slipper clutch I've ever dealt with.

 

[thegunsmith]

Well I just bought a whole new assembly from one of the 4s models from a seller on ebay. I was looking through and noticed there were a few 4S parts listed from the same seller and I contacted him before it was even listed and asked if he had one. Long story short he did and made a listing for me. I should have it by the weekend!

 

[Roger G.]

Glad someone finally said something about that, thank you for that. From what I understand he is correct in saying the black nut isn't used. Am I right? I have asked about it before but it seems everyone has a different idea.

I may buy the HR adjustable mount and the HR steel spur. I still haven't figured out exactly what I want to do but I've been busy with work so I will have more time to figure it out come this weekend.
Does it look like mesh could be the problem? I am inexperienced when it comes to things like this. Thanks

I am a noob, but that mesh does look loose to me. HR mount and you can tighten that up a bit and be golden.

 

[thegunsmith]

I am wondering if it would be fine to use a 13T pinion? The place I ordered from sent me a message saying that they were out of stock of the 15t I ordered
I received my Outcast 4s today and was wondering if I could use the 13T pinion that it comes with to check and see if the pinion is the problem. Thanks

 

[MeesterC]

Not in mine. When u go to rebuild the slipper, u wont be able to thread ur screw in.

I rebuilt mine and the maintenance kit came with a new spring. I installed the spring, used blue loctite on the screw, tightened the screw snugly all the way down and backed off 1/2 - 3/4 turn, let it sit over night to cure, reinstalled in truck and have been bashing the crap out of it for over two months with no problems.

I am wondering if it would be fine to use a 13T pinion? The place I ordered from sent me a message saying that they were out of stock of the 15t I ordered
I received my Outcast 4s today and was wondering if I could use the 13T pinion that it comes with to check and see if the pinion is the problem. Thanks

You need to find out if the outcast uses a 32 pitch (mod .08) pinion first, if it does then shouldn't be any problem. Also, from the looks of your mesh from the picture you posted your mesh is to loose. This could very well be you're whole problem. This is what I was talking about earlier in the thread about the motor mount holes for the pinions being off.

 

[thegunsmith]

I rebuilt mine and the maintenance kit came with a new spring. I installed the spring, used blue loctite on the screw, tightened the screw snugly all the way down and backed off 1/2 - 3/4 turn, let it sit over night to cure, reinstalled in truck and have been bashing the crap out of it for over two months with no problems.

You need to find out if the outcast uses a 32 pitch (mod .08) pinion first, if it does then shouldn't be any problem. Also, from the looks of your mesh from the picture you posted your mesh is to loose. This could very well be you're whole problem. This is what I was talking about earlier in the thread about the motor mount holes for the pinions being off.

I think you are right about the mesh, I have been using the 13t pinion with no problems yet but I have only gone through 5 batteries so far. When I changed the mounting holes to the 13t holes I could tell that the mesh was way tighter than it was when I was using the 15t pinion and the corresponding mounting holes. I wasn't sure if it was too tight, too loose, or just right but 5 batteries down and still no torn up spur gear is a win for me. We will see, if I am able to run 2 more batteries through it with no problems I think that will prove that either mesh or the pinion gear was the problem. Another thing I noticed with the 13t pinion is that my batteries are lasting about 5 minutes less on average. Thanks for the help

 

[thegunsmith]

And yet another spur gear down.. This time on my 6th battery since changing the gear out. 5 mins into my first pack of the day.

 

[stephen]

Take the motor assembly/spur out, but keep it attached to the motor plate. Can you physically push on the motor can, to see if it pulls away from the spur? I wonder if you have crack in the motor mount plate

Just confirming you are using an armma spur and pinion, stock teeth count, not running anything higher than 3s

 

[thegunsmith]

Take the motor assembly/spur out, but keep it attached to the motor plate. Can you physically push on the motor can, to see if it pulls away from the spur? I wonder if you have crack in the motor mount plate

Just confirming you are using an armma spur and pinion, stock teeth count, not running anything higher than 3s

I will try that. I am using the stock spur and a 13T arrma pinion. I only used this pinion to see if the problem still happens and it does, but before I put the 13T on (just a few days ago) I was using the stock 15t and the spurs were still getting shredded. All I run is 3s
I had everything apart just a few days ago and there wasn't a crack on the motor mount plate.

 

[Bri26]

How is this truck still for sale in the classified section and listed as in perfect working condition?

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...s-and-extra-parts-like-new.11678/#post-141086

 

[thegunsmith]

How is this truck still for sale in the classified section and listed as in perfect working condition?

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...s-and-extra-parts-like-new.11678/#post-141086

I have plenty of spur gears on hand, it is in perfect working condition. Sometimes its down for a day but it's always fixed. As far as I can tell this is just a normal part of owning this truck.

 

[bicketybam]

I have plenty of spur gears on hand, it is in perfect working condition. Sometimes its down for a day but it's always fixed. As far as I can tell this is just a normal part of owning this truck.

No it's not. I'm on original spur gears in my Granite and BRCC, both of which have tons of packs through them. Something is wrong with your truck.

 

[y noT]

My BRCC eats spur gears every 3-5 batteries and I have no idea why. The motor shaft has no play in it so that shouldn't be the reason. I'm starting to get very annoyed that this is a regular occurrence for me. The only thing I can think of is maybe a rock makes its way into the motor mount area and eats the spur gear up. This truck is very tough in the aspect that I can jump it and tumble it and nothing breaks but it is very weak in that the drivetrain fails almost regularly. I really need help here I am starting to loose motivation to even fix the truck. Also I am wondering about putting a Hot Racing spur in the truck but I heard it creates more problems than it fixes. Anybody here running the HR spur? If so how is it working out for you. Thanks

I was wondering if the bigrock did the same as my typhon 3s and sounds like it does. The motor mount is suppose to keep debris out according to horizon hobby but I've had to take it out and clean it a couple times. Then watched vedios on how to keep debris out, and everyone says to gorilla tape around the mount and chassis. I've done that aswell and this time a peice of gravel still got in there and was stripping the rear diff gear attached to the shaft. When I opened it it looked like cement do to gray plastic mixed with lithium grease. So now the rear diff is steel instead of plastic. Have also seen people drimmel a slot like the 1/5 and bigger with the aluminium chassis to let the debris fall out. Haven't done it yet, but may test it since I have a new chassis coming do to a crack ok n the side from a flat landing? So guess it's not because the back of the typhon being exposed that let's the stuff in. Was hoping since the bigrock was closed in all the way around wouldn't have the issue.