Kraton Steering bearings install question

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BruceRC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
I'm replacing the brass bushings in my K6 steering with bearings. Do I need to remove the two screws on the bottom of the chassis going into the steering posts?

The post circled in blue is the one I am wondering if I need to remove the screw on the bottom of the chassis for.

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The servo side seems to come loose but the other side seems secured. The bottom chassis screws for these posts are obviously Loctite.
 
I'm replacing the brass bushings in my K6 steering with bearings. Do I need to remove the two screws on the bottom of the chassis going into the steering posts?

The post circled in blue is the one I am wondering if I need to remove the screw on the bottom of the chassis for.

View attachment 349840
The servo side seems to come loose but the other side seems secured. The bottom chassis screws for these posts are obviously Loctite.

There's bearings on the underside of the posts ,so yes need to unscrew and access those too.
 
There's bearings on the underside of the posts ,so yes need to unscrew and access those too.
There might be an issue with naming here: the steering posts are those metal posts fixed to the chassis by screws from the bottom, and the steering bell cranks are what fit over the steering posts. To get to the bottom bearings on the bell cranks, you remove the steering deck; unhook the tie rods from the Ackerman plate; pull the bell cranks off of the steering posts from the top; drop the bottom bearings on to the posts; reinstall the bell cranks; hook up the tie rods; install the top bearings; and reinstall the steering deck.
 
There might be an issue with naming here: the steering posts are those metal posts fixed to the chassis by screws from the bottom, and the steering bell cranks are what fit over the steering posts. To get to the bottom bearings on the bell cranks, you remove the steering deck; unhook the tie rods from the Ackerman plate; pull the bell cranks off of the steering posts from the top; drop the bottom bearings on to the posts; reinstall the bell cranks; hook up the tie rods; install the top bearings; and reinstall the steering deck.

That's correct.
Ignore what I was saying.
 
Definition of penny pinching right there from Arrma. Updated electronics and still throwing alloy bushing inventory into steering assemblies. I bought a TLR Typhon rack for my Tyjave build, came with dual race/sealed bearings. Wonder if the $700 "EXB" still has them...
 
I've not had to remove the posts to replace the bronze bushings with bearings before. Get the top plate off. Bellcrank up & out. And slide the bushings up & off the post if one is left on it. You can add shims to the system if it's too loose up & down to your liking. Some 6s need it, some don't. Depends on the components used. Hope this helped. Looks like you got it.
 
Glad you got it! I was seriously intimidated by the 6s chassis when I got my Notorious. But after I've broken some stuff, upgraded some stuff, took it & my K6 slider both apart several times, I think they are easier to wrench on than my 3s. Now I got the new 6s Infraction & I know what to expect & what tools to grab when I get ready to do work on it. 😄
 
Definition of penny pinching right there from Arrma. Updated electronics and still throwing alloy bushing inventory into steering assemblies. I bought a TLR Typhon rack for my Tyjave build, came with dual race/sealed bearings. Wonder if the $700 "EXB" still has them...
I thought the new EXB was supposed to have bearings in the bell crank now?
 
Glad you got it! I was seriously intimidated by the 6s chassis when I got my Notorious. But after I've broken some stuff, upgraded some stuff, took it & my K6 slider both apart several times, I think they are easier to wrench on than my 3s. Now I got the new 6s Infraction & I know what to expect & what tools to grab when I get ready to do work on it. 😄
I was definitely intimidated. But like you say, after taking it apart a few times, it gets much easier. Much more confident now tearing it down and putting it back together. That's a nice collection you've got going, what's your preference in the lot? I think if I were to pick another rig right now, it'd be the Notorious 6S.
 
I was definitely intimidated. But like you say, after taking it apart a few times, it gets much easier. Much more confident now tearing it down and putting it back together. That's a nice collection you've got going, what's your preference in the lot? I think if I were to pick another rig right now, it'd be the Notorious 6S.

The Notorious looks fun but it's really just a 1 trick pony. If all you want to do is triple backflips all day then the Notorious is definitely the way to go. My first Arrma was the Outcast(same truck as the Notorious but a different body) and ever since I bought my Kraton I rarely drive it because the Kraton just drives better imho.
 
The Notorious looks fun but it's really just a 1 trick pony. If all you want to do is triple backflips all day then the Notorious is definitely the way to go. My first Arrma was the Outcast(same truck as the Notorious but a different body) and ever since I bought my Kraton I rarely drive it.
Yeah, I think I'm just in love with the look. I'm so superficial. :LOL:
 
I was definitely intimidated. But like you say, after taking it apart a few times, it gets much easier. Much more confident now tearing it down and putting it back together. That's a nice collection you've got going, what's your preference in the lot? I think if I were to pick another rig right now, it'd be the Notorious 6S.
I do like my Notorious. It is twitchy. Upgraded the steering & it's much better, otherwise stock, fixed broken parts. The bumper is a joke. I have a lot of mixed terrain at my house, grass, dirt, jumps, & it does it all. Little crazy on 6s. My K6 build will need more space to bash with the 4990. WIP but I'm guessing it's going to be a blast to rip. I have a huge street for my new 6s Infraction for it to shred. Having lots of mixed terrain keeps it interesting.

The Notorious looks fun but it's really just a 1 trick pony. If all you want to do is triple backflips all day then the Notorious is definitely the way to go. My first Arrma was the Outcast(same truck as the Notorious but a different body) and ever since I bought my Kraton I rarely drive it because the Kraton just drives better imho.
Wheelies & flips are definitely it's strengths.

Yeah, I think I'm just in love with the look. I'm so superficial. :LOL:
The old rat rod look got me. I have two Notorious bodies for it. Stock black & destroyer grey I painted.
 
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On the topic of this area on the V5. What are some other upgrades worth looking into? Would an Aluminum 7075 front upper suspension mount be a worthwhile addition or unnecessary? Or how about a 7075 steering rack? Not sure how well the stock ones will do. Gonna keep myself busy until spring.

 
On the topic of this area on the V5. What are some other upgrades worth looking into? Would an Aluminum 7075 front upper suspension mount be a worthwhile addition or unnecessary? Or how about a 7075 steering rack? Not sure how well the stock ones will do. Gonna keep myself busy until spring.

The steering rack for sure. I bent the Notorious one quickly. The red ones you can bend back into shape by hand they are so flimsy. I have a EXB one & its been fine, but there are so many options out there. I've also snapped the step pins in the ackerman plate. I keep a pack on hand. I've seen no aftermarket options for those. The Arrma ones are inexpensive.

The steering rack for sure. I bent the Notorious one quickly. The red ones you can bend back into shape by hand they are so flimsy. I have a EXB one & its been fine, but there are so many options out there. I've also snapped the step pins in the ackerman plate. I keep a pack on hand. I've seen no aftermarket options for those. The Arrma ones are inexpensive.
Add, I did break the upper front rear hinge pin mount. The one that has the upper threaded A arm pins going into it. It's also a pain to swap. It's got two screws going one way & the center one upside down. Took me a minute to figure it out when I swapped it to the EXB one & the EXB hinge pins, they work together, they have no threads, held in with a grub screw. There are other options for that hinge mount that uses the stock threaded pins so you can keep them. It all can add up quickly.
 
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