Stretch typhon 6s /gt conversion

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getting everything mocked up to see where it goes. Got sum diff cups from scorched coming also think my bumper is on upside down. How do I get my car to sit lower its sitting to high. Ive already let out the screw don't know what else to do so all advice is greatly appreciated
 
Freedomfarmer420 said:
View attachment 273273getting everything mocked up to see where it goes. Got sum diff cups from scorched coming also think my bumper is on upside down. How do I get my car to sit lower its sitting to high. Ive already let out the screw don't know what else to do so all advice is greatly appreciated
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Not exactly sure what you mean by "let out the screw" but if you didn't mean these, you can crank down your droop screws to lower the ride height of the car while maintaining a lot of shock pre-load. On the front suspension, the droop screw is kind of hidden on the lower arm right next to the bulkhead. It can be helpful to drill a 3-4mm hole in the upper suspension arm just above the droop screw to make accessing and adjusting droop easier than trying to come in from behind at a steep angle (though it works in a pinch).
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Diem Turner said:
Not exactly sure what you mean by "let out the screw" but if you didn't mean these, you can crank down your droop screws to lower the ride height of the car while maintaining a lot of shock pre-load. On the front suspension, the droop screw is kind of hidden on the lower arm right next to the bulkhead. It can be helpful to drill a 3-4mm hole in the upper suspension arm just above the droop screw to make accessing and adjusting droop easier than trying to come in from behind at a steep angle (though it works in a pinch).
View attachment 273299
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Yeah thats the screw I was referring to the name just slipped my mind at the moment. But thanks anyway
 
Freedomfarmer420 said:
Yeah thats the screw I was referring to the name just slipped my mind at the moment. But thanks anyway
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I suspected as much, but just wanted to be sure.

If that doesn't drop your ride height sufficiently, open up your shocks and put some cuts of fuel tubing on the shock shaft, inside the shock, under the piston. But if you do that, I'd back the droop screws out again and do the bulk of the drop with fuel tubing and then use the droop screws to tweak. If that doesn't do it...shorter shocks and lower shock towers would be the next move.
 
Got my gears in today 😁
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also got my side skirts cut and im gonna use the scrap piece to cut a esc plate so it will sit even with the skirt.
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but its 10:30 and im sleepy so tomorrow ill clamp them to the chassis and drill out the holes and mount them and carry on from there. Hopefully we can get it up and operational. Still have a few bits I have to get so I can mount the body.
 
Figured out where most everythings gonna go, just need to drill holes for the side skirts and shave down the servo bracket so the drive shaft doesn't rub. Still waiting for the brackets and front rear and center brace. Need help trying to figure out how to mount the body mounts so feel free to drop ideas below
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I wanna put the lipos in front to help keep the front end down too
 
Looking good man!!! Can't wait to see that thing blast off!! (y) 😁 ✌️
 
Ok I been holding off from asking this cause I might not like the answer but here goes. I was trying to bind my remote last night and when I finally kinda figured it out and it kinda binded it took off without me pressing the throttle and it was sitting on my bed so I tried to pick it up off the bed to keep it from shooting off the bed and I could turn it off but when I picked it up it wrapped the front tire in the blanket and then quit spinning so I stopped for the night. I got up this morning and tried to bind it again and I'm not sure if it is but when I'm done the esc just flashes red and beeps. The steering works but throttle doesn't work please help 😭😭😭😭
 
Ok still have zero idea of what I did but now the steering started working then I started messing with the speed trim on the side of the remote and the throttle started working. So I turned it off again to see if it took. After turning it back on the steering still worked but no throttle. So I started Messing with the throttle trim again and it started working again but it starts rolling on its on when I do it that way and I have to turn the trim until it stops spinning and the throttle works again. Any ideas please help lol I've done everything I can think of and can't find any more info online. A lil info its a futaba 4m transmitter
 
Freedomfarmer420 said:
Ok still have zero idea of what I did but now the steering started working then I started messing with the speed trim on the side of the remote and the throttle started working. So I turned it off again to see if it took. After turning it back on the steering still worked but no throttle. So I started Messing with the throttle trim again and it started working again but it starts rolling on its on when I do it that way and I have to turn the trim until it stops spinning and the throttle works again. Any ideas please help lol I've done everything I can think of and can't find any more info online. A lil info its a futaba 4m transmitter
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I would try resetting the transmitter to default or use the next vehicle memory slot, bind the receiver and then calibrate the ESC (take the wheels off the car this time ;)). Report back and let us know how it went.

Regarding your question about Dual-lock and using it to mount your batteries, yes that will hold pretty good (That's what I've been doing in my Infraction for the past year and all is well...so far). I can pick up my car by the batteries and shake it around and the Dual-lock will hold. It won't, however, secure them in the case of a wreck but then again...I've seen plenty of batteries ejected from vehicles where they were secured with straps so, depending on the speed of the crash it may or may not even make a difference. Best practice of course would be to use quality Kevlar battery straps but there are several points of failure other than just the strap on battery hold downs. I think that, depending on where you're running and the possibility of damaged batteries creating a fire (i.e. next to a lot of dry plant material, etc.) one can make reasonable assessments as to the risk of not using straps.
 
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Ok took her out on her maiden voyage just now 😁 my GPS was dead so couldn't get my speed but got it dialed in better, got the throttle reversed and trimmed the steering. I wasn't ready for that speed lol it scared me a lil and I don't think I was even going that fast probably 60 🤣😂 need to get my braces on before I try anything really. After I charge my gps ill do a quick lil run and get back to ya. Also my batteries seem to run down really fast is that normal. I wasn't out there that long maybe made 6 passes or so
 
Freedomfarmer420 said:
Ok took her out on her maiden voyage just now 😁 my GPS was dead so couldn't get my speed but got it dialed in better, got the throttle reversed and trimmed the steering. I wasn't ready for that speed lol it scared me a lil and I don't think I was even going that fast probably 60 🤣😂 need to get my braces on before I try anything really. After I charge my gps ill do a quick lil run and get back to ya. Also my batteries seem to run down really fast is that normal. I wasn't out there that long maybe made 6 passes or so
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Speed gearing sucks big power.
Just make sure you check temps between runs and don't burn anything up.

Be careful
 
LibertyMKiii said:
Speed gearing sucks big power.
Just make sure you check temps between runs and don't burn anything up.

Be careful
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She was nice and cool very happy with this motor, does alot better than the 1100kv but then again it's pushing a outcast 8s so yeah. Also I heard you suppose to charge the srd smd lipos differently like only charging at 1 to 3 c but ibdont know what thats means an you help please
 
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