Kraton Stronger Metal Diffs?!?

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I keep seeing people shimming the outdrives “on the outside surface of the bearing. Correct me if im wrong, but that shim should be between the bearing and the bevel gear. If the the o.d. of the shim doesn't make contact with the diff housing nest, then it literally does you no good. It should he between the bearing and the gear. Im having ALL kinds of problems with the limited slip diff. Im grabbin some HR housings today at work, so im hoping its just the deflection from the plastic housing. I don't want to lose the extra gear width, but i had better luck when a ran the old style 6s diffs in my EXB. Btw, the hydraulic clutch plates....i mean..am i right....are they hyd plates? Like spin creates hyd pressure thus creating “push” on the gear?? Im a ex machine builder/machinist/pipefitter/tool & die maker and thats what they look like they do..but idfk for sure. I AM VERY tired of rebuilding diffs though, and ready to try about anything. Shims=yes, bearings=yes, grease=yes,correct fitment=yes.......two ir three sets if batteries and diffs are toast=YES! and jsyk, it might be worse with paddles or trenchers, but i like runnin the revo anaconda tires for most stuff and stock some times..and it just doesn't matter. Im NOT impressed with the “new” diff setup at all, but feel like i might be missing something aswell
 
Here's the right place for a shim if your input gear and the main diff gear have play:

511.jpg


Taken from here:

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-shim-your-diff-with-pictures.7700/
 
Well that depends on shim size, yes, you can use a smaller shim between bearing and diff housing/gear, or a larger one between bearing and bulkhead for the same effect.
 
I’ve been looking into different diff gear sets that will fit our diff cases but I haven’t come up with a ring and pinion gear from another manufacturer that would fit.

As for the internal gears, I run all Mugen components. Including outdrives.
Do you have part numbers you could share?
 
Well that depends on shim size, yes, you can use a smaller shim between bearing and diff housing/gear, or a larger one between bearing and bulkhead for the same effect.
Now i'm curious - how do you change the number of shims between bearing and diff housing/gear?

The one, two, three between bearing and bulkhead can easily be changed with a fully assambled differential as they fit over the outdrive.
 
I have a Kraton 6s and recently upgraded to M2C racing thicker chassis and shock towers and 3.8 belted trenchers. My only issue I’m seeming to have is the diffs shredding and starting to click and pop. Are there any harder diffs anyone recommends or is there a solution to not sheer off the diffs so quick? #help
think it's your tires those trenchers are bad. because they are quite heavy. you better go for the Proline badlands HP 3.8 they are nice and light and are also belted. Maybe that will help your problem
 
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