I have been getting a bit fed up by the aftermarket and what they have been up to specially recently. It has really openned my eyes since i jumped on the 6s line of trucks and now on the v2 arrma 4s trucks.
The most recent thing the aftermarket has been pushing is "upgrade fixes for the 4s trucks. by offering chassis reinfocements that bolt under the chassis and a solid metal tube as T2T. By installing a solid metal part as T2T the flex of the front will be transfered to the rear. So in a heavy nose crash the rear is going to break. Saw countless of people on facebook and other groups being conpletely confused on how did the rear off the truck snap off after a frontal colision.
They were all running a solid aftermarket chassis brace. Installing a center metal reinforcement on top of that in the middle will make the car more fragile and vulnerable because it restricts the flexibility of the chassis. The chassis will break either on the middle of the front gearbox or in the rear where the power module connects making the metal skid reinforcement an outter waste of money. All it does is make ur rc more fragile on both ends, only positive thingis ur chassis wont break in half and might survive a hit on the brace. The 6s metal chassis flexes a lot without you knowing making it a solid piece like a 7075 bathtub one is a receipt for complete disaster. Theres a reason nobody now buys those or make those kind of chassis. Kevin talbot did once with his v3 kraton 6s and it was a complete waste. It broke when you farted next to it. The solution to the v2 chassis issues can easily be dealth with by adding preload to the cebter chassi brace, changing the hinge pins for longer ones and upgrade the hinge pin braket.
The aftermarket is straight up wasting our time and money over solutions that do not tackle the problem but they market it to be a problem fixer anyway and they cost an arm. Im truly really disappointed. Since i own a rtr v5 truck and an exb truck whatever big youtuber tell you to upgrade is all a big scheme. Ur rc does not need 2k in upgrades. It only needs a reliable transmission and chassis. I torture my v5 chassis. Why spend 50$ for a single shock tower when you can bend back one or twice the factory ones before they are junk? And they cost 7$ a pair from jennys. And when the 50$ bents or breaks what u going to do? Buy a another 50$ shock tower.
I crash into trees and everything and my arms are still good. Sure i did bend a few pins a tiny bit and developped micro cracks in the inner holes in the arms. But why would you go out spend what 100$ on a captured hinge pin set and make it a complete pain in the ass to work on when you have to do maintenance for the claim that its going to "increase the durability" of the vehicule?.
I talk about this in the perspective of money. Sure if you have tons of money and don't mind to burn more money than you have to and ending up spending more money on more fixes/upgrades as a result then ignore this post. But majority of us we try to avoid burning money so that we can buy other things tgat are more valuable and useful for our hobby
The most recent thing the aftermarket has been pushing is "upgrade fixes for the 4s trucks. by offering chassis reinfocements that bolt under the chassis and a solid metal tube as T2T. By installing a solid metal part as T2T the flex of the front will be transfered to the rear. So in a heavy nose crash the rear is going to break. Saw countless of people on facebook and other groups being conpletely confused on how did the rear off the truck snap off after a frontal colision.
They were all running a solid aftermarket chassis brace. Installing a center metal reinforcement on top of that in the middle will make the car more fragile and vulnerable because it restricts the flexibility of the chassis. The chassis will break either on the middle of the front gearbox or in the rear where the power module connects making the metal skid reinforcement an outter waste of money. All it does is make ur rc more fragile on both ends, only positive thingis ur chassis wont break in half and might survive a hit on the brace. The 6s metal chassis flexes a lot without you knowing making it a solid piece like a 7075 bathtub one is a receipt for complete disaster. Theres a reason nobody now buys those or make those kind of chassis. Kevin talbot did once with his v3 kraton 6s and it was a complete waste. It broke when you farted next to it. The solution to the v2 chassis issues can easily be dealth with by adding preload to the cebter chassi brace, changing the hinge pins for longer ones and upgrade the hinge pin braket.
The aftermarket is straight up wasting our time and money over solutions that do not tackle the problem but they market it to be a problem fixer anyway and they cost an arm. Im truly really disappointed. Since i own a rtr v5 truck and an exb truck whatever big youtuber tell you to upgrade is all a big scheme. Ur rc does not need 2k in upgrades. It only needs a reliable transmission and chassis. I torture my v5 chassis. Why spend 50$ for a single shock tower when you can bend back one or twice the factory ones before they are junk? And they cost 7$ a pair from jennys. And when the 50$ bents or breaks what u going to do? Buy a another 50$ shock tower.
I crash into trees and everything and my arms are still good. Sure i did bend a few pins a tiny bit and developped micro cracks in the inner holes in the arms. But why would you go out spend what 100$ on a captured hinge pin set and make it a complete pain in the ass to work on when you have to do maintenance for the claim that its going to "increase the durability" of the vehicule?.
I talk about this in the perspective of money. Sure if you have tons of money and don't mind to burn more money than you have to and ending up spending more money on more fixes/upgrades as a result then ignore this post. But majority of us we try to avoid burning money so that we can buy other things tgat are more valuable and useful for our hobby
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. Luckily it's a small bend and was able to straight it out. Worth the money??
