Kraton The dining room table build.

[Rcproponent]

Figured now would be a good time to whack the new sealed bearings in the rear hubs. Part of the complete Plaig Bearings V2C Pro Racer kit. I was dreading this part as ive read so many horror stories of people rounding out the hex of the screws that hold the retaining pin in place. I used a 17mm ring spanner and my 2.5mm MIP hex driver with plenty of inwards pressure and got them loose with no heat and no dramas. There is a tiny bit of play between the wheel hex and the bearing and in the near future will be shimmed.??View attachment 103959View attachment 103958

Very nice man, MIP ftw. They are such a snug fit! Very nice hobby porn bud ???? Perfect mixture of parts and tools haha

 

[GigaHurtz]

Very nice man, MIP ftw. They are such a snug fit! Very nice hobby porn bud ???? Perfect mixture of parts and tools haha

Thanks mate. I researched a lot before i spent my coin. More hobby porn to come ✌?

 

[NigelPrentice]

This is looking good. I, too, bought my son a Typhon, and after his first run I decided I had to get one for myself! I got myself a Kraton 6s, just like you!

I also bought a ton of gear and parts... but not even close to as much stuff you have. Good luck, and have fun! I can't wait to see more!

 

[GigaHurtz]

This is looking good. I, too, bought my son a Typhon, and after his first run I decided I had to get one for myself! I got myself a Kraton 6s, just like you!

I also bought a ton of gear and parts... but not even close to as much stuff you have. Good luck, and have fun! I can't wait to see more!

Can't let the kids have all the fun hey. Great way of teaching them basic mechanical skills as well. Sounds like im still trying to convince my wife to buy one. ?

 

[NigelPrentice]

Can't let the kids have all the fun hey. Great way of teaching them basic mechanical skills as well.

Yup, that's 100% right!!

 

[GigaHurtz]

M2C Racing droop screws were wound into the RPM lower arms front and rear. I adjusted these towards the end of the build.
These are nicely machined with no sharp edges, they would suit those running the stock chassis and would prevent the gouging associated with the stock droop screws which are essentially long grub screws.

 

[GigaHurtz]

With the completion of the rear assembly it was time to fit it to the M2C Racing chassis. I read about complaints of dirt entering the diff case through a gap between the chassis and case so i shouted the Kraton a pair of Tekjo gaskets to rectify this issue.
An RPM rear skid plate was also utilised in this part of the build and the M2C Racing rear chassis brace also comes in to full play at this stage.

 

[GigaHurtz]

Front assembly upgrades next. Ill let the photos tell the story of which parts went into this part of the build. ?

 

[GigaHurtz]

Anyone looking for a nice 5mm hex driver to remove the pillow ball retainers with, Team Associated's Factory Team driver is a really nice bit of kit. Its the odd one out but MIP doesn't make one unfortunately

Everything on the front assembly went together really nicely. No tweaks needed here, RPM and M2C played well together.
I left the spacers on the ends of the upper and lower arms off so i didnt have the drive shafts fall out as some have reported, other than that this end was a piece of cake.

 

[GigaHurtz]

While the front end was off i decided to fit the M2C Racing ackerman arm and Plaig Bearing sealed units onto the steering posts. It would be sacrilege to keep the brass bushings on at this stage. The steering posts were a pain to get off, top screws would just spin the posts with them and gripping the chassis ends of the posts with pliers was difficult with out doing collateral damage.
With persistence I got them off and while they are were separated I modified them to help with future maintenance. I simply ground a flat surface with my Dremel large enough for my pliers to grab onto but not compromise their strength.

 

[NigelPrentice]

While the front end was off i decided to fit the M2C Racing ackerman arm and Plaig Bearing sealed units onto the steering posts. It would be sacrilege to keep the brass bushings on at this stage. The steering posts were a pain to get off, top screws would just spin the posts with them and gripping the chassis ends of the posts with pliers was difficult with out doing collateral damage.
With persistence I got them off and while they are were separated I modified them to help with future maintenance. I simply ground a flat surface with my Dremel large enough for my pliers to grab onto but not compromise their strength.View attachment 106318View attachment 106319View attachment 106320View attachment 106321

Wow, that's a really cool mod.

 

[GigaHurtz]

On RPM Racing's website they suggest that you use Arrma part number AR330230. In this pack you'll need the smaller front bumper so that you can use the RPM front bumper (part #81472). It's recommended that you use the bumper out of the Arrma parts bag Ar330230 so that the original V4 front bumper doesn't act as a lever when nose diving with the RPM bumper which pulls the screws out of the bottom of the diff case. The Arrma parts bag also contains spare composite ball cups for your tower to tower brace, sway bar links, steering links and rear upper links, these will come in handy one day I'm sure. You need to use the smaller Arrma bumper to retain the lower control arms pins if your not using a suitable aftermarket one.

Another Tekjo diff case to chassis gasket was pulled from it's packet along with the M2C Racing front chassis brace. The supplied drill bit was used to enlarge the hole in the top plate where it mounts so the larger hardware in the kit could be used.

 

[GigaHurtz]

Screwed the front assembly to the chassis using some original hardware and the supplied longer hardware that came with the RPM bumper.

While I had the front next end off and I eliminated the tower to tower brace mount as I won't be refitting this part. Dressed it up a little with some anodized alloy countersunk washers I got from Hobby King.

Starting to look like a Kraton again now. ?✌?

 

[jondilly1974]

Wry nice build. Coming along real nice. I would suggest you replace this screw with a M4 bolt instead. You will need to drill out the top plate and brace. Then tap the brace to M4 threads. Or you can bolt thru and nut on the bottom if you don’t want to tap the threads.

 

[GigaHurtz]

Wry nice build. Coming along real nice. I would suggest you replace this screw with a M4 bolt instead. You will need to drill out the top plate and brace. Then tap the brace to M4 threads. Or you can bolt thru and nut on the bottom if you don’t want to tap the threads.

Hi, it's M2C, the front chassis brace comes with a drill bit and M4 hardware (screw and nut) and the brace is tapped as well. Cheers.

 

[GigaHurtz]

Half way through the build I decided to put the size labels on the MIP hex drivers. The labels are self adhesive, once they are stuck on you slide the supplied clear heat shrink over the top and give them a hit with a heat gun.

Another area needing upgrade on the Arrma 6S lineup is the servo mount, there are quite a few options for this part and a i choose the Markhor car bin fibre mount for this job, it looked like a nice bit of kit and was sourced locally through https://www.ampedrc.com.au/

A Savox SB 2290 SG servo was chosen to be slotted into the void of the Markhor servo mount. I also purchased some servo mounting washers from Thunder Innovations and their matching 7075 alloy servo arm.

 

[GigaHurtz]

Assembly of the Savox servo to the Markhor mount was hassle free. I switched the nuts from the mount kit in favour of the black flared nuts that came with the Savox for additional strength against the carbon fibre plate. Pure xxx servo porn if you ask me. ???This assembly was screwed down with thread lock onto the chassis.

The original battery straps were swapped out for Kevlar items before the battery tray was screwed to the shiny new M2C Racing Chassis. The chassis side plastics were also fitted at this stage.

The servo and ESC leads were routed under the ESC mount which was then placed on the chassis and fixed into place.

 

[GigaHurtz]

The Spektrum SR515 RX was dry fitted into the receiver box, I was worried that because it was a 5 channel RX it would not fit, it fit like a glove. The SR515 is actually more compact than the Spektrum SRX200 the Kraton came with.

 

[GigaHurtz]

When I checked over the Kraton when I first got it out of it's box i noticed that it had a grub screw missing from the pinion gear. I added another using thread lock as the motor shaft had a flat spot for it to grab onto, 2 grub screws holding the pinion gear onto the motor shaft has got to be better than 1.

 

[GigaHurtz]

I screwed the centre diff and motor assembly to the M2C Racing Chassis, joined the motor wires to the ESC and modified the wire holder by drilling a hole in the holder and putting a zip tie through to stop the wires from falling out and making contact with the spur gear.