Big Rock Thinking i need a 3-4s truck in my fleet.. Big Rock V3?

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i see alot of people making this truck 4s. can anyone suggest a good combo>?
You mean like this? Yes, its bad ass and totally worth it. My favorite RC along with my 4s vorteks. I use V1 and V2, 4s parts on these cars along with 6s shocks, some 3S parts and the 3s short wheelbase and long wheelbase chassis.

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Damn straight I will.i hope you start one soon brotha..and I want to see your ideas..ik you must have some crazy wild ass ideas and we all want to see them .👍😁
Haha, my mom tells me she loves my ideas because they’re wild and shouldn’t work, but then I make them work. We’ll see! Currently, I’m limited by time, and a bit limited by funds, I’m trying to save because I have to get a car this summer (turning 16) and I wanna have a house when I’m older… and a ring if a girl ever wants me, that loves the Lord and is cool.
 
I started with a Granite and a Typhon. After a few years and piles of parts and fiddling and swapping out parts and trying different combinations.... and many new cars, those two cars have ended up as essentially a Big Rock with a typhon body, and a little street car with every part is the shortest size available. So yeah - I would definitely do a Big Rock if starting over.
 
Haha, my mom tells me she loves my ideas because they’re wild and shouldn’t work, but then I make them work. We’ll see! Currently, I’m limited by time, and a bit limited by funds, I’m trying to save because I have to get a car this summer (turning 16) and I wanna have a house when I’m older… and a ring if a girl ever wants me, that loves the Lord and is cool.
I love that you have a set of future plans 😁👍.I wish you well.don't worry about a ring just yet..that will come in time .stay in school.save up for a car and work towards getting a good career.so you can offord the house and then the ring for that special girl👍 build thread can wait
 
You mean like this? Yes, its bad ass and totally worth it. My favorite RC along with my 4s vorteks. I use V1 and V2, 4s parts on these cars along with 6s shocks, some 3S parts and the 3s short wheelbase and long wheelbase chassis.

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That orange body, what is it? To be honest i don't really like my 4s outcast body. Also did for the 4s kraton v1. They look like the 6s trucks but a notch worst. Making them look unique could help break the link to them being seen as lesser versions of the 6s. One problem of naming everything a kraton and outcast...
 
i see alot of people making this truck 4s. can anyone suggest a good combo>?

My BR was one of my first purchases of RCs, and I will not get rid of it. I can say after looking back on the money and the cost to make it 4S strong:

Metal rear diff & input >> for the added power to stop stripping gears
4S slipper >> for the 4S power
CVDs >> for the power over what the stock 3S driveshaft
Motor >> stock motor is at peak with 3S so 4S will push it over the top
Shocks >> optional but most all go with the Typhon 6S shocks
ESC >> optional but will not get far on stock on 4S so Firma 130A or something around that
Etc

The cost is equal to or more of another new BR or another rig.

I do not want to water you down....just research the journey.

It's a cool 3S rig, so have fun however you go with it :)
 
That orange body, what is it? To be honest i don't really like my 4s outcast body. Also did for the 4s kraton v1. They look like the 6s trucks but a notch worst. Making them look unique could help break the link to them being seen as lesser versions of the 6s. One problem of naming everything a kraton and outcast...
It’s a jconcepts body. I think it would fit the 4s outcast chassis pretty good. Mine is a big rock chassis which is just a little bit longer. I originally cut it when old Yeller was a 3s big rock hybrid. So there is a bit of a gap at the bottom that bugs me. It’s also really beat up after a year and a half. So I got a new one recently, the exact same thing. I’ll cut it to fit the taller 4s shock towers better. I’ll probably even paint it similar. It’s old yeller after all.

One thing I like about it is it’s a wider than the average body, so it works with the 4S stance very well. It is also incredibly tough, they plastic crumples a bit rather than split or collapse. It’s the strongest body I’ve run yet. I always shoo goo using concrete board tape. That really helps it last through the hard hits. I had extra layers to those areas that take harder average hits, such as the front, tailgate, roof and the bed/cabin juncture.
 
It’s a jconcepts body. I think it would fit the 4s outcast chassis pretty good. Mine is a big rock chassis which is just a little bit longer. I originally cut it when old Yeller was a 3s big rock hybrid. So there is a bit of a gap at the bottom that bugs me. It’s also really beat up after a year and a half. So I got a new one recently, the exact same thing. I’ll cut it to fit the taller 4s shock towers better. I’ll probably even paint it similar. It’s old yeller after all.

One thing I like about it is it’s a wider than the average body, so it works with the 4S stance very well. It is also incredibly tough, they plastic crumples a bit rather than split or collapse. It’s the strongest body I’ve run yet. I always shoo goo using concrete board tape. That really helps it last through the hard hits. I had extra layers to those areas that take harder average hits, such as the front, tailgate, roof and the bed/cabin juncture.
Concrete board tape??
I think i found it. https://jconcepts.net/1979-ford-f250-supercab-monster-truck-body
 
Sorry man, I should’ve attached the link. It’s cement board, not concrete board. Had that wrong. Here’s the brand I’ve been using for over a year. It sticks much better to the body than wallboard tape, so I can put the first layer down entirely before having to apply glue. It is considerably stronger also over wallboard tape. I do one layer on the whole body, apply the E 6000 and then I reinforce the junctures that take the hardest hit. I used to use shoo goo but now use e6000 because I can get it in a large tube that works with a caulking gun for just 11 bucks.

I looked at that body before and it would probably work, but it’s not the one I use. I wasn’t feeling good last night and forgot to attach links. We all have strep throat right now, yay. Here’s the body that I like so much. 12.75” wheelbase. The Arrma Outcast roll bar fits perfect behind the cab and it really helps keep the body from ‘folding’ right where the cab meets the bed. I also like the pro line body skids. They are the most durable ones I found yet and provide really good protection. I also put a tailgate skid on the rear of the body can’t find which one I used. You might be putting ann outcast wing on it, though which would protect it just as good.

J Concepts Inc. 1/10 '79 F250 SuperCab Monster Truck Clear Body 12.75 WB JCO0329 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/93c7ptl

ARRMA AR480009 Truck Roll Hoop Outcast https://a.co/d/9IFNAPh

Pro-line Racing Lid Skid Body Protectors for SC 110 and 18 Monster Truck Bodies PRO636000 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/57RYjtI

ST GOBAIN ADFORS America INC FDW6650-U 2x50GRY Cement BRD Tape https://a.co/d/1diCZvU

E6000 232021 Medium Viscosity Cartridge, 10.2-Ounce, Clear https://a.co/d/4zqGnQI

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Sorry man, I should’ve attached the link. It’s cement board, not concrete board. Had that wrong. Here’s the brand I’ve been using for over a year. It sticks much better to the body than wallboard tape, so I can put the first layer down entirely before having to apply glue. It is considerably stronger also over wallboard tape. I do one layer on the whole body, apply the E 6000 and then I reinforce the junctures that take the hardest hits. I used to use shoo goo but now use e6000 because I can get it in a large tube that works with a caulking gun for just 11 bucks.

I looked at that body before and it would probably work, but it’s not the one I use. I wasn’t feeling good last night and forgot to attach links. We all have strep throat right now, yay. Here’s the body that I like so much. 12.75” wheelbase. The Arrma Outcast roll bar fits perfect behind the cab and it really helps keep the body from ‘folding’ right where the cab meets the bed. I also like the pro line body skids. They are the most durable ones I found yet and provide really good protection.

J Concepts Inc. 1/10 '79 F250 SuperCab Monster Truck Clear Body 12.75 WB JCO0329 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/93c7ptl

ARRMA AR480009 Truck Roll Hoop Outcast https://a.co/d/9IFNAPh

Pro-line Racing Lid Skid Body Protectors for SC 110 and 18 Monster Truck Bodies PRO636000 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/57RYjtI

ST GOBAIN ADFORS America INC FDW6650-U 2x50GRY Cement BRD Tape https://a.co/d/1diCZvU

E6000 232021 Medium Viscosity Cartridge, 10.2-Ounce, Clear https://a.co/d/4zqGnQI
 
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are these all big rocks?
Not really. The only thing my shares with the original big rock is the Big rock/typhon chassis. Otherwise it is all v2, 4S parts.
 
Im just a excited dude when it comes to the BIG ROCK💪🤣🤣🤣.SKY IS THE LIMIT not the road 🛣️. The feeling when @Talionation83 opens up the huge box and pulls out that beautiful truck..his eyes 👀 will get so big and full of excitement.

Thanks @kspitters I appreciate you allways visiting my build thread when I update it . appreciate ya bro😁👍

I know there is no way you read the whole thread lol .he looked at the pics and said fk this way to much bla bla bla up in here .🤣🤣 Sorry I type a lot but it's my journey into the transformation of the world's longest Big rock.it was a monster truck but now it's transformed into a street speedster..I haven't really been showing much the body because I want to finish the chassis first.then I'll get to finishing extending the body last..I'll have multiple different body's for it .I've been working on a few just for speed runs and the extended original BRcc body will be more for show.just wait till you guys see what I have in mind .it's gonna be wild 👍😁
I finished reading most of it today on my breaks at work lol. Pretty interesting stuff man I love it!! I just want to make it wide and tough and def 4s at some point.
 
I finished reading most of it today on my breaks at work lol. Pretty interesting stuff man I love it!! I just want to make it wide and tough and def 4s at some point.
That's awesome .I wish I was done so you could see the final product but unfortunately I still have tons of ideas left to do..but if you follow me I believe every time I update you'll receive a alert.😁🤟I'm gonna follow you so I can see what you do with yours when you get it.
 
That's awesome .I wish I was done so you could see the final product but unfortunately I still have tons of ideas left to do..but if you follow me I believe every time I update you'll receive a alert.😁🤟I'm gonna follow you so I can see what you do with yours when you get it.
I will hane it Thursday it looks like. I plan to try the dboots backflips 4s on it but might want to widen it some for those tires. Looks like il be buying some v2 4s parts lol
 
I will hane it Thursday it looks like. I plan to try the dboots backflips 4s on it but might want to widen it some for those tires. Looks like il be buying some v2 4s parts lol
That's the great thing about Arrmas ...mix and match parts from different platforms.😁🤟
 
That’s gotta be the coolest thing!! Can’t wait to get to work on it
Me neither bud.i wanna see what you come up with..be unique.. different..customize and modify..no point in building something that some one already seen before .be creative..let your rig be one of a kind and when you do begin start a build thread so we can all watch and help you along the way and even others can chime in and learn 👍😆
 
Sorry man, I should’ve attached the link. It’s cement board, not concrete board. Had that wrong. Here’s the brand I’ve been using for over a year. It sticks much better to the body than wallboard tape, so I can put the first layer down entirely before having to apply glue. It is considerably stronger also over wallboard tape. I do one layer on the whole body, apply the E 6000 and then I reinforce the junctures that take the hardest hit. I used to use shoo goo but now use e6000 because I can get it in a large tube that works with a caulking gun for just 11 bucks.

I looked at that body before and it would probably work, but it’s not the one I use. I wasn’t feeling good last night and forgot to attach links. We all have strep throat right now, yay. Here’s the body that I like so much. 12.75” wheelbase. The Arrma Outcast roll bar fits perfect behind the cab and it really helps keep the body from ‘folding’ right where the cab meets the bed. I also like the pro line body skids. They are the most durable ones I found yet and provide really good protection. I also put a tailgate skid on the rear of the body can’t find which one I used. You might be putting ann outcast wing on it, though which would protect it just as good.

J Concepts Inc. 1/10 '79 F250 SuperCab Monster Truck Clear Body 12.75 WB JCO0329 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/93c7ptl

ARRMA AR480009 Truck Roll Hoop Outcast https://a.co/d/9IFNAPh

Pro-line Racing Lid Skid Body Protectors for SC 110 and 18 Monster Truck Bodies PRO636000 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/57RYjtI

ST GOBAIN ADFORS America INC FDW6650-U 2x50GRY Cement BRD Tape https://a.co/d/1diCZvU

E6000 232021 Medium Viscosity Cartridge, 10.2-Ounce, Clear https://a.co/d/4zqGnQI

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Sorry man, I should’ve attached the link. It’s cement board, not concrete board. Had that wrong. Here’s the brand I’ve been using for over a year. It sticks much better to the body than wallboard tape, so I can put the first layer down entirely before having to apply glue. It is considerably stronger also over wallboard tape. I do one layer on the whole body, apply the E 6000 and then I reinforce the junctures that take the hardest hits. I used to use shoo goo but now use e6000 because I can get it in a large tube that works with a caulking gun for just 11 bucks.

I looked at that body before and it would probably work, but it’s not the one I use. I wasn’t feeling good last night and forgot to attach links. We all have strep throat right now, yay. Here’s the body that I like so much. 12.75” wheelbase. The Arrma Outcast roll bar fits perfect behind the cab and it really helps keep the body from ‘folding’ right where the cab meets the bed. I also like the pro line body skids. They are the most durable ones I found yet and provide really good protection.

J Concepts Inc. 1/10 '79 F250 SuperCab Monster Truck Clear Body 12.75 WB JCO0329 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/93c7ptl

ARRMA AR480009 Truck Roll Hoop Outcast https://a.co/d/9IFNAPh

Pro-line Racing Lid Skid Body Protectors for SC 110 and 18 Monster Truck Bodies PRO636000 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/57RYjtI

ST GOBAIN ADFORS America INC FDW6650-U 2x50GRY Cement BRD Tape https://a.co/d/1diCZvU

E6000 232021 Medium Viscosity Cartridge, 10.2-Ounce, Clear https://a.co/d/4zqGnQI
I cant get those cartridges in canada unless spending insane money
 
I cant get those cartridges in canada unless spending insane money
Ahh, Canada. That is a bummer. Can you get smaller tubes of it or shoo goo or is that also pricey as hell?
 
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