Torox 185 ISSUE

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Jluther@becoinc

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
  2. Talion
What would cause an ESC To cut completely off during acceleration. It comes on and sometimes it might run for a few seconds or even longer then I’ll give it throttle and the ESC just shuts completely off. I can instantly turn it on but it won’t take throttle.

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Batteries are fully charged? Batteries are in good condition? Check all the wiring and make sure nothing is broken or loose?
 
Batteries are fully charged? Batteries are in good condition? Check all the wiring and make sure nothing is broken or loose?
Yeah I’ve tried my best to find any type of arch or loose connection. So far I can’t find it . I pulled the motor and cleaned inside. Plugged it back to the ESC and without a being in the truck it runs. I put it back in it’ll run perfect for a little while then pop back off. I’ve never had one do this.
 
If it's completely shutting off, as in no fans, no steering, then there's gotta be a connection break going on somewhere? Bad batteries will loose throttle, but typically the fans and steering still work, along with a flashing light on the esc. Have you tried different batteries? Check your connections at the receiver. Then you may want to trace all the leads starting with the power switch. Also from the esc power connectors, cap pack.. and so on. I'd unbundle the wires as much as possible and work my way around wiggling and pulling on the connections with the unit powered on to see if you can pinpoint a bad connection maybe. If that doesn't show anything, try another esc if possible.
 
my money is on battery, one of the cells are probably going away but its usually only on very very heavy load pulls and then it may come back. You can try a lipo battery alarm attached and run, it'll probably beep off and let you know.
I’ll give that a shot when I get home. It doesn’t go into low voltage shut down maybe the power is completely going out but it comes right back with the push of the button. I did run to thermal cut off once. I BEM then it cooled down and came back to normal?
 
I’ll give that a shot when I get home. It doesn’t go into low voltage shut down maybe the power is completely going out but it comes right back with the push of the button. I did run to thermal cut off once. I BEM then it cooled down and came back to normal?
Thermal shutdown doesn't completely shut everything down, I have hit thermal shutdown many times with one of my Torox esc's. The fans still run, as does the steering. Complete shutdown is something else. Make sure you check the power switch thoroughly, they can give much grief when they start fouling up.. good luck.👍
 
my money is on battery, one of the cells are probably going away but its usually only on very very heavy load pulls and then it may come back. You can try a lipo battery alarm attached and run, it'll probably beep off and let you know.
I’ll give that a shot when I get home. It doesn’t go into low voltage shut down maybe the power is completely going out but it comes right back with the push of the button. I did run to thermal cut off once. I BEM then it cooled down and came back to normal
 
The only times I've ever had intermittent complete shut downs of the truck were from a faulty rx, rx wire or connection issues, or over power shutdown from the esc itself.

That's what I'd put money on.
 
If it's completely shutting off, as in no fans, no steering, then there's gotta be a connection break going on somewhere? Bad batteries will loose throttle, but typically the fans and steering still work, along with a flashing light on the esc. Have you tried different batteries? Check your connections at the receiver. Then you may want to trace all the leads starting with the power switch. Also from the esc power connectors, cap pack.. and so on. I'd unbundle the wires as much as possible and work my way around wiggling and pulling on the connections with the unit powered on to see if you can pinpoint a bad connection maybe. If that doesn't show anything, try another esc if possible.
Can I just cut the switch out and tie the wires together like an Arrma switch? I’m looking over all connections now but it just shuts off during throttle and not all the time.

Can I just cut the switch out and tie the wires together like an Arrma switch? I’m looking over all connections now but it just shuts off during throttle and not all the time.
Man I really hate to give up on this ESC. It’s perfect for the Talion. Instant balls to the wall power and light weight too. I like the way it was running better than a Max8 or Max6. It’s hard to pin this down cause it doesn’t do it with every throttle pull. It won’t run over a minute or so.
 
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Can I just cut the switch out and tie the wires together like an Arrma switch? I’m looking over all connections now but it just shuts off during throttle and not all the time.
I suppose you could bypass the switch, you will lose the ability to program obviously, but for process of elimination I suppose you can try it. They are "servicable" no? Meaning there are screws that can be removed to open up the switch. IDK about what all solder connections are going on inside of it, but I'm sure someone skilled at PCB or similar soldering could desolder and resolder the connections inside it. That's beyond my abilities though TBH. I'd be more likely to cut the wires outside the switch, then rejoin if/when necessary once I eliminated the problem.
It's possible you have some capacitors going/gone? I really don't know that much about these to say. However, a HW G2 Quicrun 150a esc can be had new for under $100 in a worst case scenario. Just saying.. or,
Maybe wait for some more responses from others before "cutting" too deeply into things. Pun intended.😁
 
I suppose you could bypass the switch, you will lose the ability to program obviously, but for process of elimination I suppose you can try it. They are "servicable" no? Meaning there are screws that can be removed to open up the switch. IDK about what all solder connections are going on inside of it, but I'm sure someone skilled at PCB or similar soldering could desolder and resolder the connections inside it. That's beyond my abilities though TBH. I'd be more likely to cut the wires outside the switch, then rejoin if/when necessary once I eliminated the problem.
It's possible you have some capacitors going/gone? I really don't know that much about these to say. However, a HW G2 Quicrun 150a esc can be had new for under $100 in a worst case scenario. Just saying.. or,
Maybe wait for some more responses from others before "cutting" too deeply into things. Pun intended.😁
That’s pretty good advice now that you mention it. No telling how many times I’ve done more damage than good by doing the wrong thing. Thanks for everyone’s help.
 
I own both and they definitely have different settings and responses. The MAX8 has more protection features. The same but programmed differently. Reds faster Everyone Knows That!
I have been quite satisfied with the 2 Torox 185's I have. I don't have a Max8 to compare it to though.. my brother has at least 2 of each, but I don't think he knows the difference TBH. Besides color anyway, LOL.
 
Thermal shutdown doesn't completely shut everything down, I have hit thermal shutdown many times with one of my Torox esc's. The fans still run, as does the steering. Complete shutdown is something else. Make sure you check the power switch thoroughly, they can give much grief when they start fouling up.. good luck.👍
It acts to me like the switch is shutting off. I just ain’t sure if I can bypass the switch. Castle switches are so bad a lot of guys I know just tie the two wires together when they buy it. I’m not sure if the same thing can be done to the Torox( Hobbywing) switches
 
Could possibly be the servo browning out the bec in the esc. For shits n giggles do you happen to have a different servo to try?
I’ll give that a try. I do have a couple new servos. I have it out of the truck and working on the bench and it runs fine so far. Friggin wierd!
 
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