Traxxas XL-5 Amperage Rating, Upgrading Brushed ESC on Slash

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Arise0185

Active Member
Rig of the Month Winner
Messages
298
Reaction score
581
Arrma RC's
  1. Mojave EXB
I recently learned that my local track allows aftermarket ESCs in the Spec Slash class, which I think explains why some drivers have been out accelerating me out of every corner no matter how I adjust my driving style/setup. I know a lot boils down to skill and consistency, but when I'm running in the top 3 I feel I can justifying spending a few bucks to eek out every last bit of performance from this very slow truck :)

To be clear, I don't think aftermarket ESCs should be allowed in Spec Slash, but the rules are what they are. That being said, I am having the hardest time finding the amperage rating of the stock Traxxas XL-5 ESC! Their product webpage doesn't list it:
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/escs/3018Rxl5waterprooflvd

The main reason I'd like to know is because I want to make sure the aftermarket ESC I purchase will provide a significant bump in performance from the stock ESC. Currently looking at the Hobbywing Quicrun series, but I'm not sure if I should go with the WP1060 (60A) or WP0880 (80A).
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/quicrun-brushed-system

*Edit* Found this thread on RC Tech that says the XL-5 is rated for 14A continuous.

And also found the actual data sheet that states 15A continues, 100A peak.
https://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/KC1761-R01_3018R-XL5_INST_140430-EN.pdf


I'll be picking up a Quickrun WP1060 from the local hobby shop today. Should be a plenty big upgrade from stock.
 
Last edited:
I'd do the same thing to keep weight low. I doubt the stock motor can exceed the 1060's ratings, which would make the 1080 a waste.

Thanks for the validation :LOL:
 
Even though its Spec class. I would consider the 1080, the few Grams extra weight, means very little,........ and the extra Amp "overhead" would be a plus by itself. The ESC will be more efficient. More leeway for gearing choices, IMHO. . The rest is just driving style. Get your lines down better for best laps.
Various Tracks have rules that are all over the place.
 
Last edited:
Even though its Spec class. I would consider the 1080, the few Grams extra weight, means very little,........ and the extra Amp "overhead" would be a plus by itself. The ESC will be more efficient. More leeway for gearing choices, IMHO. . The rest is just driving style. Get your lines down better for best laps.
Various Tracks have rules that are all over the place.
Interesting point about having more overhead and higher efficiency.

I agree that a lot comes down to driver skill. But as I mentioned earlier, I'm usually battling in the top 3, and my "consistency" ratings are usually in the 90-95% range. So I feel justified in upgrading my equipment to gain some speed :)

Now when it comes to my stock buggy driving... I absolutely will not be spending any money on the car until my driving gets better :ROFLMAO:
 
FWIW, aside from programming options or efficiency, I don't think amperage ratings will play into how the truck "feels" when it drives. If the Hobbywing ESC feels different when driving, I would say that's up to it being more efficient or having more competitive programming options. Unless you're actually bumping up against the ESC's thermal limits or power (amperage) limits, then buying an ESC specifically for a larger spec'd amp limit won't change much unless you want the overhead to consider options for higher gearing.

Any idea if there are better programming options for the HW esc?
 
FWIW, aside from programming options or efficiency, I don't think amperage ratings will play into how the truck "feels" when it drives. If the Hobbywing ESC feels different when driving, I would say that's up to it being more efficient or having more competitive programming options. Unless you're actually bumping up against the ESC's thermal limits or power (amperage) limits, then buying an ESC specifically for a larger spec'd amp limit won't change much unless you want the overhead to consider options for higher gearing.

Any idea if there are better programming options for the HW esc?

Interesting, I don't know for a fact that I'm bumping into the XL-5's thermal/power limits. But I know that at least one of the guys who I struggle to keep up with is running an aftermarket ESC. I figure this is a cheap enough experiment ($30) that I won't be too upset if it doesn't make a huge difference.

Looks like the only programmable options are for operating mode (F/Br/Rev) and battery type, unfortunately:
https://www.hobbywing.com/en/uploads/file/20221015/f60b7ebe160a7b283927ae8916d36763.pdf
 
I have no idea, but I would guess yeah ESC would help. Also some people buy a bunch of stock motors and use the one that is fastest if you’re super serious.

Some art to cutting the brushes/breaking them in which is supposed to help, but this was before my time. I never did that stuff.
 
I have no idea, but I would guess yeah ESC would help. Also some people buy a bunch of stock motors and use the one that is fastest if you’re super serious.

Some art to cutting the brushes/breaking them in which is supposed to help, but this was before my time. I never did that stuff.
Yep, I've read about breaking in brushed motors by running them in water, etc. Not sure if I want to deal with that or buying multiple motors, etc. It is supposed to be a fun, low-stakes class after all!
 
Interesting, I don't know for a fact that I'm bumping into the XL-5's thermal/power limits. But I know that at least one of the guys who I struggle to keep up with is running an aftermarket ESC. I figure this is a cheap enough experiment ($30) that I won't be too upset if it doesn't make a huge difference.

Looks like the only programmable options are for operating mode (F/Br/Rev) and battery type, unfortunately:
https://www.hobbywing.com/en/uploads/file/20221015/f60b7ebe160a7b283927ae8916d36763.pdf
We are obviously talking Brushed here.

For a mere $13. more, why wouldn't you run this???? Leaps and bounds the way better ESC

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Manual_QUICRUN_WP-1080_G2-Brushed.pdf?v=1670441020

Also, are you limited to stock Sealed can motors in Spec class? I will assume ..YES, normally so..
Just don't overlook your Brushed motor as a bottle neck with overall performance. The ESC can't over come a worn out motor. Kept clean and lubed between every race is key. Worn brushes will also hurt you overall.
 
We are obviously talking Brushed here.

For a mere $13. more, why wouldn't you run this???? Leaps and bounds the way better ESC

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Manual_QUICRUN_WP-1080_G2-Brushed.pdf?v=1670441020

Also, are you limited to stock Sealed can motors in Spec class? I will assume ..YES, normally so..
Just don't overlook your Brushed motor as a bottle neck with overall performance. The ESC can't over come a worn out motor. Kept clean and lubed between every race is key. Worn brushes will also hurt you overall.

I completely looked over the 1080. Any issues with it being labeled as a rock crawler ESC?

Another difference I notice is the 1060 only has a 5v BEC, whereas the 1080 has a 6v BEC.
 
Yeah , much of the brushed ESC's marketing has shifted focused on to the Crawler segment with some Crawler features you simply delete or add as needed, as Brushed is still considered a viable setup in this RC segment. Even track racing if a Brushed spec is required. You just select Zero drag brake, with Forw. and Brake only in the ESC settings. I believe Tracks will never allow Reverse anyway. Having Reverse enabled on a track sucks anyway. And is also dangerous for the Turn Marshals.
This ESC will be fine with a Race setup. I have this in both my Axial's.

The 1080 at only $13. more is a no brainer, for what you are getting.
The 1060 is actually WAY overpriced IMHO!!!(n)


I am still big into brushed stuff. I started racing 35+ years ago when Brushed was a thing. I still have fun with them.

This one is a sleeper, no one knows about.
I also got these. the 80 and the 90amper, . but this ESC is Not for the faint of heart. BT /APP controllable. But It is impeccable and for the price.
I love these. Just Not a hard recommendation however. You be the judge. The Price is right. ISDT makes good stuff also. These run Pretty cool IMHO, 7.5v max BEC adjustatble to every voltage step down you might need.. I run the 90 amper in my vintage Losi XXX-T. And it flies on 3s packs. Got mine off AMZ.

https://www.isdt.co/esc70.html?lang=en
 
Last edited:
Duratrx went out of business, a HH brand. Recently.
That ESC looks identical to my OG Tekin 420F from the 1990's. Costing me over $200. back when, A forward only Racing ESC. If I remember only the amp out output was adjustable. I think this DTX model ESC goes back to 2006.
The specs are similar to the Old school Brushed Tekins. They were known to run hot. But normal for Nicads and Nims at the time. Not sure if Lipos are even good for this one. Def not 3s lipo packs. It is meant for 6-7 cell Sub-C type cells. (Nims or Nicads), 7.2 or 8.4v
The gold plated heat sinks merely push fit onto the Power and Brake Mosfets. And they would always fall off and get lost. I found myself always buying the HS's.
 
Last edited:
Hmm, I may go with one of the ISDT options. Looks like I can get them from Amazon.

I came home from the local hobby store with a Quicrun 1080 and an LCD multifunction program box, but reading through the online manuals (haven't opened the boxes yet), it seems like I need the LED program card for this particular ESC, and multifunction LCD program box won't work. Don't want to risk opening the boxes until I know for sure that it will work. The guy at the RC counter insisted they would be compatible, but... I don't necessarily trust his word against the documentation from HW.


*EDIT* - on second thought, i'll probably keep the HW 1080, and head back and swap out the LCD box for the LED card.
 
Last edited:
Built with 14 awg wire???
LOL, wikipedia says the 1 second fusing current of 14 awg is 633a.
1706132478727.png


I'd be interested to note what their definition of "continuous" is :ROFLMAO:
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top