Outcast Trouble threading new parts

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Vitta

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
It seems like every plastic composite part I try to put on my outcast doesn't want to go on at first. I have to push down ridiculously hard and turn the part at the same time for it to just get a bite. And then it don't want to screw on anymore and gets really really tight when I finally do get it on, like I had to make my own threads or stripped it. Idk I'm new to RC's. Now I'm dealing with the ball cup part and am having no luck getting it on.. any tips? I get most of my parts from tower hobbies.
 
The cap that holds the ball is one of the easiest to cross thread. I find it way easier to do, if I just take the hub right off the vehicle, so the cap is facing down. You can feel it start to catch, stop, and make sure it looks square. I have one that is cross threaded, but it's holding just as well as the others for now.
 
Some of plastic parts usually do not come threaded so you are actually using the screw to cut the threads so it always is harder to get them on the first time.

The pivot ball retainers are a pain to thread in...make sure you are lined up straight and it should go in.
 
It seems like every plastic composite part I try to put on my outcast doesn't want to go on at first. I have to push down ridiculously hard and turn the part at the same time for it to just get a bite. And then it don't want to screw on anymore and gets really really tight when I finally do get it on, like I had to make my own threads or stripped it. Idk I'm new to RC's. Now I'm dealing with the ball cup part and am having no luck getting it on.. any tips? I get most of my parts from tower hobbies.
Oh, and welcome to the forum @Vitta.
 
There comes a time in every man's life when he'll need some extra lubrication for penetration.

You basically are cutting new threads... I built a 3racing kit recently with insanely hard plastic and had to dip the screws in a bit of grease (white teflon stuff) to get them in without stripping the heads. Occasionally I'll just use spit :D
 
I had the same issue when building my fazon hd from scratch; nothing was threaded and the plastic was very hard.
 
There comes a time in every man's life when he'll need some extra lubrication for penetration.

You basically are cutting new threads... I built a 3racing kit recently with insanely hard plastic and had to dip the screws in a bit of grease (white teflon stuff) to get them in without stripping the heads. Occasionally I'll just use spit :D
Spit is a cheap and easy way for screw penetration!
 
Set of metric taps- could be the best $10 you spend this week. Don’t tap the whole thing though. Just enough to get you some stability to use the part you are screwing in to cut into the plastic. Stays tighter that way.

I’m the cross threading master on those ball cups. Eventually I just bought a set of the Hot Racing Aluminum ones. Nothing plastic to cross thread there.
 

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Welcome to the forum
Oh, and welcome to the forum @Vitta.
Thanks
There comes a time in every man's life when he'll need some extra lubrication for penetration.

You basically are cutting new threads... I built a 3racing kit recently with insanely hard plastic and had to dip the screws in a bit of grease (white teflon stuff) to get them in without stripping the heads. Occasionally I'll just
Set of metric taps- could be the best $10 you spend this week. Don’t tap the whole thing though. Just enough to get you some stability to use the part you are screwing in to cut into the plastic. Stays tighter that way.

I’m the cross threading master on those ball cups. Eventually I just bought a set of the Hot Racing Aluminum ones. Nothing plastic to cross thread there.
[/QUOTE
That's probably what I'll have to do, Thanks.
 
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