Typhon Typhon is here, please advise

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Arrma RC's
Hello.

I just opened my new typhon and the front wheels don't seem to be straight. i do not have a battery yet, so im wondering if it will right itself once a battery is installed? for now, one wheel is straight the other is aiming left. i have a pic, but its asking for a URL and its on my desktop so I have no idea how to display it.

the other question i have, is about the rear wheels. if i manually rotate them, one seems straight and the other rotates wobbly as if the wheel is damaged or it was put on wrong. it appears to be put on right. how would i correct this?
 
ok, so i seem to have forgotten about setting the camber. but im still not sure about the wobbly tires.

i also got a set of new GRP tires and they are much smaller than the stock pair. package says 1/8. will this affect the speed of the buggy?
 
The front tires should have a bit of "toe out" - that is the front of the tires will each point a bit out. The rear has a bit of "Toe In". Both of these allow for easier handling on rough ground.

And Congrats on the Typhon!
 
All of Arrma 1/8 cars are "bash spec". The camber has been set for better traction & turning on uneven surfaces, hince the "toe out" & toe in". As for the tires, most come unbalanced with glue jobs to match which don't affect bashing.

When uploading a image, hit "More Options..." & you should be able to do it from there.
 
When you hold the wheel, does the nut just spins when you turn it?
 
i found the source of all the issues. the wobble and the stuck tire. i got the tire off and found this was warped. i don't know what its called the wheel hub perhaps....so much for popping my cherry today....more waiting to get this replaced.
 

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i went to the LHS and he fixed me up, but he noticed i had on street tires. he said to fix the camber because you don't want that on the street, its better for grass. he said to remove these 2 little tiny plastic fork looking things off the front end. i have no idea what its called. ill try to post a picture.

i know you need a photo, but until then, does any of this advice make any sense? i took them out and it didn't help straighten out the front wheels at all.
 
After you take them out, you need to screw the pillow balls in the rest of the way. Take the tires off, and use a long allen thru the red circle, I think it is 2.5mm or 3mm on the ball. When you are done, use a 5mm allen to check the red cap, make sure it is not too tight (no binding on the pillow ball) and not too loose (no play)
 
i went to the LHS and he fixed me up, but he noticed i had on street tires. he said to fix the camber because you don't want that on the street, its better for grass. he said to remove these 2 little tiny plastic fork looking things off the front end. i have no idea what its called. ill try to post a picture.

i know you need a photo, but until then, does any of this advice make any sense? i took them out and it didn't help straighten out the front wheels at all.

They're called suspension arm spacers. These plastic ones can also be replaced with better quality aluminum spacers, (6mm I.D.). Having some negative camber is a good thing (top of tire leans in), especially for high speed & cornering. All full size race cars have negative camber. You never want positive camber (top of tires leaning out). The drawback to negative camber is some uneven wear on the inside tread. All Arrma cars come with negative camber (usually more on the front) + front toe-out & rear toe-in. All this helps to keep the Arrma somewhat in control and easier to drive, especially on 6S. Careful if you start to change any of these settings too much?

Taking a spacer out, will give it more negative camber. I think Arrma's already come with enough negative camber in the front (note: my Talion has more negative camber than my Kraton), so if trying to straighten front wheels out more (less camber), you should ADD a suspension arm spacer, not take one out.
 
what a day.....what a day....non stop chasing my tail with this thing.

so i take out the sus arm spacers. go drive it. it seems fine. however when i go in reverse, the front wheels wobble. they don't while forward. normal?

i turn the controller off first....big mistake. the car goes flying WOT in reverse right into my house. F#@%!

later, im in the road and a lady comes around the corner on a bike, i take my eyes off the car for 1 sec to orientate myself where i need to steer based on where she is, i look back down and SLAM! car goes right into my shins, goes flying in the air, lands upside down and skids on its roof for about 12 feet.

enjoy the laugh. i did.

im looking through the manual and it says i have to bind the remote and set end point adjustments and failsafe. what are these things? everything runs fine and responds fine. what in the blue hell am i missing? the book doesn't offer a whole lot in explaining what these are for.

i didn't mess with the ESC. everything seems set right out of the box. is there any setting i need to address in the ESC set-up?
 
Ooops, probably not your best day. Hey, at least you never hit the lady on the bike (not sure I would want to see that one). Hope the shin is ok, as these things can come at you real fast...

Always turn on controller (transmitter) first & turn off last to avoid car taking off on it's own. Yes, the binding is already done, or your controller would not even work. Your failsafe should already be set up from factory. It never hurts to check your servo end points, but mine were set up ok. If change to a stronger servo, this is a must.

Are you still using stock tires/wheels? I notice the front wheels on my Talion definitely has more side to side play than they should. My Kraton is much better, so maybe it's due to the different steering blocks. You can shim the front wheels (between the wheel hex & steering block). The I.D. of the wheel shims is 8mm & outside diameter I'm guessing approx 12mm should work? I'm sure other members have shimmed the wheels to confirm this...
 
I don't touch the throttle trim. The manual says "adjustment is not necessary" & there is a BIG X through it. The only adjustment you may possibly want to change is not on the transmitter, but on the ESC, which is the "PUNCH SETTING", which controls the initial power to the motor. Any other throttle adjustment must be done manually "(throttle finger") LOL
 
no. im using GRP street tires.

what does throttle trim on the controller do? i didn't notice it change anything.

Congrats on the new Typhon buddy, they are great cars. I know it goes against our man code but could I suggest you read and understand your manual before you change parts and settings etc and go to a BIG open quiet space to try get used to it first, if you are a complete novice to the hobby? If you don't understand anything there are some great geeks on here with more money and time than sense, ready and waiting to help :p
 
Throttle trim ( I think) does nothing. Well, not exactly. It sets the 'center' point, neutral. Only when you turn on the truck, the ESC auto-finds neutral. So you don't really need it to 'fix' the throttle trim. If, after the truck is running, you turn the knob, the radio neutral will move, and make the ESC think you are applying throttle or brake.
 
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