Kraton v4.. Noob questions..need some advise

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leddmirage

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Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
hi guys/gals,
i'm new to the hobby..just got myself a kraton v4..did some research before getting it..haven't run it yet..i am still noob..need some help..
1. do i need to shim the diff on the new v4?
2. i got 1 one those 3in1 hobbywing multifuntion LCD..can this be use to program the stock esc?
3. can automotive greaw be use on the outside diff gear? or require model grease? i think center diff cant be greased as its exposed below?
4. if i run on grass n compact sand..can i use the 16t pinion? its kinda warm/hot where i live..
5. would it help to install a fan to thr motor? what is the recommendation?
thanks in advance :)
 
#1- the jury is out on the new variation of shimming Arrma has done on the V4. Time will tell.

That being said- I am sure they have tested it, and if it is OK for them as an upgrade from the old style then it is OK with me.

I just rebuilt my rear diff with the new shim style. I have the parts to do the other 2 diffs but will wait until they need repair.
 
hi guys/gals,
i'm new to the hobby..just got myself a kraton v4..did some research before getting it..haven't run it yet..i am still noob..need some help..
1. do i need to shim the diff on the new v4?
2. i got 1 one those 3in1 hobbywing multifuntion LCD..can this be use to program the stock esc?
3. can automotive greaw be use on the outside diff gear? or require model grease? i think center diff cant be greased as its exposed below?
4. if i run on grass n compact sand..can i use the 16t pinion? its kinda warm/hot where i live..
5. would it help to install a fan to thr motor? what is the recommendation?
thanks in advance :)
Hi @leddmirage and welcome to the forum.
You should not have to shim the difs on a V4, and depending on who you ask, it isn't absolutely necessary on the V3's either. It's a bulletproofing option, and meant to help withstand some pretty extraordinary types of bashing.
Not sure about the program card.
Grease on the ring gear and pinion inside the dif cases is always a good idea. Some use silicone grease, others like marine grease, a dab of automotive grease will surely do the same thing. You definitely want to stay away from using wet grease on the center dif spur and pinion. Too much dirt can accumulate and likely wear down the gears faster. Some type of dry was lube or dry graphite spray would be a better option. Same goes for any of the other exposed moving parts. Keep it dry when possible and avoid lubricants that will cause dirt and dust to stick.
If you plan on bumping up to the higher pinion, heat will definitely be an issue, especially given the conditions you plan to run in. A good single or dual fan set up would help, but you would still have to keep your eyes on the motor and esc temps while operating. Lot of fan choices from a lot of different members. You might want to do a quick search using the feature available at the top right of the screen. No three letter searches, so try best fan set up or something similar.
After all this, just make sure you have a blast with that new beast of an rc.
 
The LED program boxes that came with my hobbywing crawler ESCs worked fine with two other HW based ESC's I have... Only the numbers printed on the box don't match up with the settings, obviously. Can't hurt to try it out.
 
thanks for the advice and info! :)
where can i find the 'new' shim style?

is it ok to top up diff/shock oil in the shock n diff?
does it have to be same brand etc? and same cst rating? or would it be better to clean everything n refill/rebuild?

sorry for all these questions..i was in rc e-heli..back from hiatus n into sending trucks into the sky this round..lol..still a long ways to go
 
#1- the jury is out on the new variation of shimming Arrma has done on the V4. Time will tell.

That being said- I am sure they have tested it, and if it is OK for them as an upgrade from the old style then it is OK with me.

I just rebuilt my rear diff with the new shim style. I have the parts to do the other 2 diffs but will wait until they need repair.
I need to get diff parts for a v4 Kraton myself and was wondering if someone could help me by telling me what all parts I need to do the diffs and what shims I need to make the thing tough. Thanks ahead of time guys!
 
thanks for the advice and info! :)
where can i find the 'new' shim style?

is it ok to top up diff/shock oil in the shock n diff?
does it have to be same brand etc? and same cst rating? or would it be better to clean everything n refill/rebuild?

sorry for all these questions..i was in rc e-heli..back from hiatus n into sending trucks into the sky this round..lol..still a long ways to go

First, welcome. Happy to see new people.

As for the shim set up for the new trucks you can look on the second page of the exploded view for your truck.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/pdf/exploded-views/ARA106040T1.pdf
 
First, welcome. Happy to see new people.

As for the shim set up for the new trucks you can look on the second page of the exploded view for your truck.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/pdf/exploded-views/ARA106040T1.pdf
There you are again! Sorry to but in but are there still other shims not in the diagram (exploded view of v4 manual) that people use to take out any extra slop? Or are the v4 truck diffs now toughened up from factory? I think I heard Rich D. mention Tekno shims for the main gear or something like that but it was probably a video before the v4 trucks launched. I'm not sure if all the extra shims and stuff is still necessary for "bulletproofing" the trucks?
 
I Just picked up a V4 Kraton as well and had the same question about the diff shimming. I bought all the shims and proceeded to shim the from and rear.

After doing so I found that adding the shims mad the diff to tight and the gears were grinding. I chatted with Rich Duperbash about this and he did confirm that the V4 Kraton diffs have been updated and do NOT need to be shimmed.

Having said all that, if you do feel the need to shim your diffs here are links to them on Amazon:

Mugen Seiki E0206

Tekno RC 13x16x.1mm


I would also recommend picking up some Gorilla tape and reinforce your body before you head out for your first bash. You will be glad you did at it will prolong the life of your body greatly. There are a ton of videos out there on how to do this so just do a quick google/youtube search on it.

Also, Head over to youtube and check out Rich Duperbash's channel. He has tons of awesome advice and input on upgrades and maintenance. You'll also spend a ton of time just enjoying his epic "moon launches".

Duperbash Youtube link

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the forum.

-Jake
 
My v3 was shimmed pretty tight from the factory but I replaced the shims with slightly thicker and hopefully tougher ones. The stock ones were deformed after 15ish 4000mAh 6s packs.
 
I just purchased new gear boxes and there is no way I could get the extra shim on, which I was using on the outside of the bearing, main gear side. I'll reevaluate after a few runs, but on the original case, it slid in easily. The Mugen set is for the internals, and that is an install and dry fit test procedure. It can be tedious, but over shimming has almost as negative an effect as not shimming enough.
 
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