Typhon Why am I stripping wheel hexes on my Typhons?

[DavefromCA]

Half my wheels are not usable because I seem to be stripping wheel hexes (see attached picture). I am going to use JB weld to repair them, but an idea why this keeps happening? I thought I was being safe and making sure they are on all the way before tightening. None of the other vehicles are having this issue.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

What does the hex look like on the car?
what wheels are these?

 

[Tex Koder]

From the look of your wheel's hex area..

It appears to not have been fully seated all the way... and the hex adapter ended up stripping/torquing loose..
As observed of those small portion of the plastic have a ledges.. (which there shouldn't be.)

 

[DavefromCA]

Hex on the wheels looks fine, they are prolines

 

[SrC]

Yeah that's odd that you are eating them like this.
But then again, PL is not all that????
Combination of wrenching error and poor PL quality??? IDK.
@dure16 does have a great point. Shown in the picture.
Your nuts are getting loose. Or the wheel's hub is initially crushed. Adding insult to injury?
Sometimes even Over tightening the wheels, causes the wheel hubs to distort and spread out. Then with use, the nuts can loosen or not have enugh purchase at the wheel's Hub , at some point, if that makes sense. Been there. Sometimes quality of the wheel's plastic matters.
I can even see abusive driving causing this. A "locked Slipper clutch" can even contribute to this. Or a Combination of both....
I would toss that wheel. It's beyond repair. Start over. Replace with a different brand wheel set. And rethink how you are wrenching/RC'ing there. Check your slipper while you are at it. Can't hurt.

 

[dure16]

Yeah that's odd that you are eating them like this.
But then again, PL is not all that????
Combination of wrenching error and poor PL quality??? IDK.
@dure16 does have a great point. Shown in the picture.
Your nuts are getting loose. Adding insult to injury?

Come on give @Tex Koder the credit he deserves!

 

[DavefromCA]

AhhI have been tightening them a lot, because I was losing wheel nuts for some reason

 

[SrC]

Come on give @Tex Koder the credit he deserves!

My bad.
Sorry @Tex Koder . You get the credit
Misread it.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

AhhI have been tightening them a lot, because I was losing wheel nuts for some reason

That is your issue.
When it gets loose and only 20% of the hex makes contact its over....

 

[SrC]

AhhI have been tightening them a lot, because I was losing wheel nuts for some reason

Try some Blue Threadlocker. Let cure for 24 hours before running, All you can do. You may even simply need New Nuts from overtightening.
But yeah unfortunately that wheel is toast IMHO.
Trying to fix it and reuse the wheel, you will be chasing a ghost there. Been there, done that.
I find if you initially overtighten nuts all the time, you are crushing the plastic wheel hub. Then it causes a domino effect, keeps loosening, then the more you try tightening them, tightening even more and more, the hub is finally trashed. Better quality thicker upgrade Axel hex should help.

 

[Jamr]

I agree with @Tex Koder 's assessment.
I would measure the depth of the hex's and make sure you are getting the wheel all the way over that hex. Then check that their is no slop with rotating the tire from side to side quickly. If there is some slop (the wheel banging on both sides of the hex) then you have a problem you have to figure out or you will keep doing this.
Also, if you have to use the nut to press the wheel over the hex something is wrong too. it should not be that tight.
It might also be that your hex's are not deep enough. Are they after market?
The hex should fit into the whole depth of the negative of your wheel if it does not, you will strip the wheel and cause wear and tear if the wheel is rubbing on something near the bearing. Make sure the nut tightens the wheel onto the hex and not something else.
Wish I had pics to show you.
Here is a PDF on how to repair the wheel. Never tried it but maybe it will help you.
https://www.rccaraction.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/How-to-Fix-a-Stripped-Wheel-Hex_.pdf
I forgot to mention. Your wheel nuts should have a nylon ring inside of them. If this is worn out you need to replace them. They do wear out if you take them off and on alot. Buy extras so you always have a fresh set on hand when you need them. They are cheaper than new wheels.

 

[RC-Dude]

Has happened to me too. It seems I tightened the hex without the rim having locked in properly. Basically scewed it on top. As soon as the hex loosens a bit the rim gets damaged for good.

 

[Allen Wrench]

The wheel nuts are knurled on one side they only go on one way…

 

[Garcbomber]

What’s your torque spec on the 17mm nut? 40+ ft lbs

I use a 1/2” electric impact, 2 braps never had a Mojave fortress nut leave.

 

[DavefromCA]

"The wheel nuts are knurled on one side they only go on one way…"

Yes I saw that right away and have always abided by that.

"What’s your torque spec on the 17mm nut? 40+ ft lbs
I use a 1/2” electric impact, 2 braps never had a Mojave fortress nut leave"

I actually have an impact as well, I tried it once, but did not like using it on an RC car. After doing some research, the consensus seems to be you hould not be using any impact tools, but hand tightening as hard as you can.

 

[SrC]

I agree with @Tex Koder 's assessment.
I would measure the depth of the hex's and make sure you are getting the wheel all the way over that hex. Then check that their is no slop with rotating the tire from side to side quickly. If there is some slop (the wheel banging on both sides of the hex) then you have a problem you have to figure out or you will keep doing this.
Also, if you have to use the nut to press the wheel over the hex something is wrong too. it should not be that tight.
It might also be that your hex's are not deep enough. Are they after market?
The hex should fit into the whole depth of the negative of your wheel if it does not, you will strip the wheel and cause wear and tear if the wheel is rubbing on something near the bearing. Make sure the nut tightens the wheel onto the hex and not something else.
Wish I had pics to show you.
Here is a PDF on how to repair the wheel. Never tried it but maybe it will help you.
https://www.rccaraction.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/How-to-Fix-a-Stripped-Wheel-Hex_.pdf
I forgot to mention. Your wheel nuts should have a nylon ring inside of them. If this is worn out you need to replace them. They do wear out if you take them off and on alot. Buy extras so you always have a fresh set on hand when you need them. They are cheaper than new wheels.

+1
Yeah Nylock nuts do wear out and are consumables if applicable here. Replace them. Why I stated above to try some Blue TL. Not as a band-aid fix however. Other issues to address are at play here, like stated above in your post and mine.

 

[DavefromCA]

JB weld to the rescue

 

[DavefromCA]

Follow up: does anyone make a tougher hub/nut? Can I use the ones off the Typhon 6s?

 

[Jamr]

You should be able to find some metal hexes and some metal wheels. I have only seen beadlocks that are metal. Then you will have to find some tires that will go onto those metal wheels.