Typhon 6s steering upgrade

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joshludden

Thai guy in Iowa
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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton 6s
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Looking for an aluminum or possibly alloy steering bell crank upgrade for my typhon 6s. Was wondering if anyone out there had any ideas/ suggestions to help *steer* me🤣 in the right direction. Any info or expertise would be greatly appreciated
 
I have been fine with the stocker plastic in ALL my rigs. And I have many of the 6s rigs here. I can't see any advantage over stockers. Except the bling. Steering slop will not be any more improved IMO.
I could see spending $$ on other Alloys parts first, like Front and Rear Hubs first, if you don't have them already. The HR hubs will have larger inner BB's that are more durable. And also, the Front Pivot balls will not pop out with these HR alloy hubs.
Replacing all the center diff cover and support plastic with alloy is also more a priority IMHO. Again, if you haven't done this already.
Just me.
 
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I have been fine with the stocker plastic in ALL my rigs. And I have many of the 6s rigs here.
I could see spending $$ on other Alloys parts first, like Front and rear Hubs first, if you don't have them already.
Replacing all the center diff cover and support plastics is more a priority IMHO. Again, if you haven't done this already.
Just me.
Right on, I'll add that stuff to the list (which can be quite lengthy & expensive!) I've kinda been trying to go from the ground up-m2c chassis and braces. I've been trying to add some parts here & there as my wallet will allow. Thanks for the knowledge- guess I know where that tax refund is going!!
 
Alloy is cool. But get what is absolutely needed and has a distinct purpose/benefit first. Throwing bling just because.... can eat your wallet for sure.;)
For instance, nice looking Alloy arms can work against you. Cause more damage than its worth.
Alloy adds very much weight. With weight comes more drivetrain wear and High temps to your electrics as well as more $carnage$ costs. Need firmer shock springs in many cases. Shocks may need thicker oil etc. Or handling may take a hit.
It is very easy and tempting to slam any rig with All alloy if your wallet allows. Sure it looks trick and all. Just be careful. Alloy that is structural is usually a benefit. Like your upgrade chassis and braces.(y)
 
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Alloy is cool. But get what is absolutely needed and has a distinct purpose/benefit first. Throwing bling just because.... can eat your wallet for sure.;)
For instance, nice looking Alloy arms can work against you. Cause more damage than its worth.
Alloy adds very much weight. With weight comes more drivetrain wear and High temps to your electrics as well as more $carnage$ costs.
Are these the correct part #'s for those hubs?
HRAAON21MA01
HRAAON22MA01
 
>>>>>I don't think they are. :unsure:

The Typhon uses the same hubs as the Lim/Infr and Fel. Not exactly 100% sure. I ran into this problem when trying to use Kraton plastic front/rear hubs on my Limitless. Did not work. The hub axel lengths/offset were different.
OC/Kraton and Notorious use the above hubs. There is a difference between the plastic Arrma hubs.. just double check first before you buy the HR ones..
 
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That's odd, do I misunderstand? I have really crappy loose steering stock and I saw many people say that an aluminum steering Bell crank made a world of difference for precise steering. I just ordered the vitavon hubs and bell crank to tighten that up.
 
First thing you should do is swap all of the factory plastic pivot balls with aluminum hot racing pivot balls. Then go from there. good luck brother 🍀
 
Steering slop on the 6s rigs comes from the tie rod "Ends". The balls are metal already. Not slop from the Steering bell crank or Ackerman Plate. You need to install 4 BB's in the stocker bell-crank posts, if you haven't already. They all come stock with 4 Brass bushings. (n)The TLRT is the only 6s rig that comes with 4 sealed BB's for the Steering posts already there.
For off-road running, ST. slop is minimal enough and not critical at all. IMHO. But you can use small strips of Teflon tape in the "Ends" before popping the balls back in. It works for me on my Lim and Infr. Did this on my TLRT also. Do this to all the rod ends including the short Servo arm Link. (6 ball ends in total)
 
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