Talion Thumper33's Build

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Location
Westminster, CO
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
Goal: Trying to keep the build as light as reasonably possible while making it a nimble and reliable basher. Drivability for my young kids is key, while making it also fast and fun for me.

Intro: This is my first RC since about 1990, so things have changed a little since then. I have a lot to learn and this forum has been invaluable and the people amazingly helpful. Thank you all for that! I bought a Talion because I got my kids a TRX4 a year or so ago and I thought it would be fun to have a 2nd car, as well as give me something more my speed when I want. Debated a long time between the Kraton and Talion and just decided I was more excited about drifting than wheelies, so just went with the Talion.

First Impressions: My first impression on the Talion build before I ran it was that I was surprised how much slop there was in... well... just about every joint, both suspension and steering. Part of my build will be tightening all that up for sure, but what fun is a build without things to do. After my first run, I was blown away with how fast this thing is. I only ran it up and down the street, and through the grass at my house so I didn't have room to go crazy. I'm sure this made it feel faster than it would have in an open field, but wow. I turned down the throttle to 50% and it was still super fast! There is no way I was going to let my kids (5 and 7) drive this thing unless I could make it wayyyy slower. I only had a 6s battery, so first thing would be to get a smaller battery in there.

Stock Weight: 4727 grams (10.42 lbs)

First Mods:
  • Sensored motor (Castle 1520-1650Kv)
  • Better ESC (Castle Mamba X 8S)
  • Better transmitter / receiver (futaba 4pm)
Motor: After some research, I liked the castle creations stuff. I was initially going to go with the 1515-2200kv motor, but decided to go with a bigger can. Not because I wanted the speed a bigger can would give me, but because I wanted to make sure that it would stay cooler. I could have gone with the 1717-1650Kv, but I wasn't looking for more speed, and weight was a factor for me. I considered the 1520-1650 to be the balance between all the factors, and seemed like the sweet spot for me. I went with a 21T pinion to start. It was totally a shot in the dark as I had no idea what to expect other than I knew the motor would have more power, but would turn slower than stock at the same voltage. So far I think I guessed pretty close, but it's freezing cold out so who knows as far as temp. I'll have to put more time into evaluating that.

ESC: the MMX8s gets a lot of good talk on the forum, and it's the match for the motor above. This seemed like a no brainer for me. I considered the 6s version of it, but in the end just went with the 8s version because it matched the motor and gave me options in the future.

Transmitter / Receiver: I had a Futaba setup growing up and it looked like Futaba is among the top quality transmitters you can get. For me, quality in a transmitter is important since this is the tangible interface to driving the car. Give me quality or give me death. Super happy with this transmitter. I was a little nervous that the menu system would be confusing, but it's actually not bad at all. Couldn't be happier with the decision.

Weight: After changing out all of the above, the car lost 64.9 grams. I was shocked. I thought that I would be gaining weight, but I didn't think about all the wires that would go away, and wires aren't light. Granted if you're running dual batteries then some of those wires would need to stay. I'm only going to run a single though.

New weight: 4662 grams (10.28 lbs)

Post Mod Impressions: There is snow on the ground outside so it's not an apples and oranges comparison, but so far, I love it. I won't be able to tell the power difference until I get some dry ground and a chance to run it in the grass, but so far I'm super happy. I figured that if I run it at about 22%, it's perfect for the kids to handle, and it's super easy to adjust that limit digitally on the fly with the transmitter. I still like to run it at only about 60% for myself. HA! It's notable that I lost the gyro when changing out the esc. I do notice the difference and am still deciding whether I want to get the Futaba gyro in there. I need more drive time to really make that decision. I can't seem to find a Futaba gyro in stock right now anyway. Low speed driving is great since it's a sensored motor. I knew that I would really appreciate this, especially for the kids driving it. It's night and day difference for controllability at low speeds. It's no longer a light switch at the low end. Couldn't be happier. :)

Next Mod: Lighting - By the time I usually get out to run it during the week it's getting dark. With the black body it's impossible to tell which way it's facing half the time so I need some lights to help me out there. I have a Polo Creations lighting kit on the way and will report back with more info once its installed.

And now for the moment you've really been waiting for... pix!

The stock mount with the ridge cut off so I can glue the esc on onto a flat surface. I wanted to glue the esc right to the chassis, but there wasn't any flat place to put it.

20220303_225932.jpg


Waiting for the glue to dry. I used Black RTV because it's what I had laying around.

20220303_231852.jpg


Reassembled and ready for a maiden voyage with the new electronics!

20220309_201916.jpg
 
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Nice build.

But, why did you decide to cut stock plate and glue the ESC to it?
You could have trimmed&drilled a piece of thick Lexan sheet from Lowes or HD to make a dedicate mount..

Or, purchased a custom 3D printed plate for a couple of dollars and secure the ESC to it instead?
 
Nice build.

But, why did you decide to cut stock plate and glue the ESC to it?
You could have trimmed&drilled a piece of thick Lexan sheet from Lowes or HD to make a dedicate mount..

Or, purchased a custom 3D printed plate for a couple of dollars and secure the ESC to it instead?
Ignorance on other options I suppose. I looked to see what other people did and this is what I came across. I thought for a couple of mins about just making something but I wasn't convinced that all the effort would actually buy me anything but lost time. If you have a better idea I'm all about it. :)
 
I appreciate the suggestion. I saw that one but didn't see what it bought me. I don't want a switch mount and it still just mounts on top of the stock mount. Since I just glued to the stock mount directly, I can still remove the esc if I want to by unscrewing the stock mount, and there's no additional weight added. That was my logic anyway. :) That mount is nifty if you don't want to glue it.


Coming soon:
  • Light kit installation
  • Venting the tires properly
  • Tightening up the suspension and steering from factory slop
 
Yea I was originally going to 3m gorilla glue double side tape it, than came across the mount with the switch mount which I liked.

No harm no foul, Enjoy your rig!🤟
 
I appreciate the suggestion. I saw that one but didn't see what it bought me. I don't want a switch mount and it still just mounts on top of the stock mount. Since I just glued to the stock mount directly, I can still remove the esc if I want to by unscrewing the stock mount, and there's no additional weight added. That was my logic anyway. :) That mount is nifty if you don't want to glue it.


Coming soon:
  • Light kit installation
  • Venting the tires properly
  • Tightening up the suspension and steering from factory slop
Add front/rear shim here will eliminate slop
Don’t remember what shims I used hope this helps

E9B0C0B1-19AC-4B19-A434-2C48764F07BC.jpeg

Nice build
 
On order:
  • Washers for suspension slop cleanup
  • ProModeler DS385CLHV servo
  • Vitavon Steering Bell Crank
  • Vitavon Front and Rear Hubs
  • Stainless Steel Screw Kit
  • Fast Eddy Bearing Set
 
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4/21/22 update:

ProModeler DS385CLHV servo - saved me 3 grams, 46% more torque, and about twice as fast as stock.

Fast Eddy Bearings - So far I've only done the steering bearings, as the others will get done once I do maintenace on the parts next. It did help tighten up the steering slop a LOT. For now, I'm not even going to install the vitavon steering setup. I will likely still do the hubs though.

BasherQueen Treatment

Rear Shock Tower
Stock: 55.6

BQ: 30.3
Saved: 25.3
Front Shock Tower - requires larger 4mm diameter shock pins which I wasn't aware of. I guess this will go on next time I'm pulling things apart.
Stock: 30.5g
BQ: 15.1g
Saved: 15.4g
Tower Brace
Stock: 70g
BQ: 48.3g
Saved: 21.7g
Ackerman bar
Stock: 6.3g
BQ: 4g
Saved: 2.3g
Steering Plate
Stock: 13.8g
BQ: 8.6g
Saved: 5.2



Changed motor from 1520-1650kv to the castle 1717-1650kv - I'm not really excited about the change but my 1520 was overheating fast. Swapping out to the 1717 fixed this issue and I sent the motor in to castle to have a look. The car doesn't feel much different between the two, though the 1717 is heavier. Hopefully I can put the 1520 back in when they fix the issue with it.

SMC ORC 6000mAh 4S battery - This battery is plenty of speed for me still. I'm now running my track @ 85% throttle limit on 4S. This battery is also only 422 grams compared to the 705g that my 6s battery was, and that one was 1000mAh smaller. Love this new battery!

Set the droop - wow, I didn't realize how much of an effect this would have. The car turns better, more predictably, and is much more planted in the rough. I'm set at +3mm front / +6mm rear.

I just got in from a run so here is a dirty pic. I'll clean her up later for some shiney ones. :)

oh yeah, I broke the wing clean off a few runs ago and haven't replaced it yet. on the bright side, it's lighter!



Current Weight - 11.3lbs As it runs (with batt and body) / 10.2lbs (no body or batt) / 7.96lbs naked (no body, batt, or tires)

- HA HA exactly where I started, but now with a big block motor and better steering. The battery is where I saved the most but I didn't get a "as it runs" weight before. I guess that just means that it's 283 grams lighter, the difference in batteries.

20220421_134810.jpg
 
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update 4/29/2022

I finally got my warranty replacement motor back from castle, since my 1520 was overheating super quickly. They said it was a manufacturing defect and replaced it so now I'm back in business with that motor. :)

I have to say that maybe the 1717 has a little more power, but not a bunch. I'm now super happy running the 1520 on 4s with a 20T pinion. I suppose I'll probably try a 23T which is the next step up that I have next run out, but I'm not sure that I can handle much more speed on this course anyway. We'll see.

For those deciding between a 1717-1650kV and 1520-1650Kv motor, if weight is at all a factor, just get the 1520. I can tell a little bit of difference in power, but not much, and this thing has PLENTY of power. I don't like it at all on 6s as it's way too much for traction. If you want to run 6s on either of these motors, be prepared to be gentile on the throttle. I've found my happy spot in 4s somewhere around this 20T pinion.

Soooo... dropping that 100 grams from switching back to the 1520 motor, I'm now down to..

Current Weight - 11.05 lbs As it runs (with batt and body) / 9.95 lbs (no body or batt) / 7.71 lbs naked (no body, batt, or tires)
 
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