I put that system in my Granite along with the center diff module. It was a tough fit and I had to cut up the receiver box to make it fit. You might not need to cut it up if you stick with the slipper, but that slipper will need to be very very tight to handle the motor. My slipper went ballistic when I put the same system in the Vendetta. It's absolutely bananas on 4s and 6s. It's honestly overkill and a half, but it's pretty fun. Expect to shred your spur, slipper, and diffs quickly if you run it for a while on 4s or 6s. You can get the 4s diffs and slipper if you wanna make it handle it better, but yeah it's crazy.
I was planning on ordering all metal diffs and cases from RCawd1999 on ebayYou can shoehorn it in there and run 4s. Due to the torque things will break quickly.
, just ne careful or u going to ended up on jennysrc.com
I plan on using all metal diffs, housings and power module from RCawd on ebay. Im looking into axles now and thanks for mentioning the motor mount, that was one area I hadn’t considered
Ive already got a 6s kraton and it needs upgrades. My motor and esc are basically free and the complete diffs are only $126 for the pair. The only thing else I might need is driveshafts and I saw a metal set cheap on ebay. Im looking into a motor mount now. I don't really like the look of the typhon and in every thread I read, it doesn't matter what I buy, something always needs upgrades because the stock parts are either inadequate or fail. I kinda beat the crap out of the vorteks and I can get replacement bumpers for $2 and whole new bodies for $23, tire choices are cheap too. Im looking into a Notorious 6s exb soon and if I get really froggy I might buy an 8s rig.
Ive already broken some parts, replaced steering blocks, driveshafts, servo, the usual. I wanted it faster without cooking the stock motor and its just not possible so I want to make it as insane as possible. I figured by upgrading the diffs, shocks, motor, esc and installing metal cvd’s I would be ok gearing up slightly and not overheating. I have to keep the punch at 3 or it overheats with the 18t pinion and that sucks. I don't want to gear down and make it slower. Im ok with replacing a few parts now and again. I want to try a metal spur and I found an upgraded motor mount. If the slipper proves to be a repeated issue I will mod it to a center diff setup later. I figure a single 4s lipo would be lighter and easier to fit than two 2s batts. I don't do skate parks so Im not launching 20 ft in the air. I mainly just shred the lawn and low altitude longer distance jumps. Its more about squeezing as much out of this platform than it is about reliability.
I just watched a youtube video about how to get a kraton to have 100% of its steering capability. Im using a cheaper servo than he is but the guy really went in depth on it. Arrma uses really squishy servo savers to protect the weak stock servos. Now if you are talking about too much weight transfer to the rear I just did a lot of adjustment to stiffen the rear springs and that kept more on the nose without affecting its ability to backflip. On my vorteks I just added the slightly thicker spring spacers and it does the gangster boogie off the line. My buddy has a rustler 4x4 vxl and I completely roast him in a drag race on and off road but mostly its noticeable off road because all 4 of my tires dig in while his wheelies and gets all squirrelly
I will try and find a link, the guy did way more than just a servo and saver, his kraton turns on a dime in tall grass with larger tires. I was really impressed
This guy. He spent a lot of time. Im saving a few bucks to do this to my Kraton that currently steers like a school bus with 6 flat tires
Woah woah woah what? 126? You could get the arrma boost box with metal diffs and pinions for 100. https://www.towerhobbies.com/product/front-and-rear-metal-diff-upgrade-set-boost-box/ARA210007.html
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