Vorteks Arrma 1/10 VORTEKS 4X4 3S BLX - Durability advice

[StaticX]

Good Day Everyone

So I'm looking at buying a Arrma 1/10 VORTEKS 4X4 3S BLX , but when reading up a bit on each part i see there has been very bad reviews regarding the Spektrum 3660 3200Kv Motor and blowing out on the front bearing?

Do you guys know if this is a common problem with the Vorteks and the specific motor or would it just be the general few that have had issues all decided to post reviews?

I see some posted they had issues with the first run and even some saying they bought a few of the specific motors and all had issues. . . Just a bit concerning seeing as i would not want the cost of replacing the motor right after buying the RC

Any advice or recommendations would be great

 

[slick2500]

Has nothing to do with the motor. It's the power module dirt gets trapped inside it then it ends up inside the motor then destroys the bearings. Same problem exists across the entire 4x4 platform. One of the many many threads discussing this issue https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/3200kv-blx-3660-motor-bearings.9826/#post-105038

 

[GraniteFox]

I prefer the drill a hole in the chassis method but sealing the power module also works fine. You could also just pull the power module and clean it on a regular basis. Not really much of a problem once addressed. They now include the chassis hole in the 4s line. Will be interesting to see if the 3s line gets a chassis update to incorporate the same.

 

[Glitch]

Light bashing my vorteks has been terrible. Really limited crashing mostly just speeding around through pavement a dirt. A few jumps.
Had to upgrade/had issues with:
ESC (warranty)
servo
radio (steering broke and the top plastic piece on the dx3 is glued to both sides meaning its hard to take apart)
motor plate/mount bent
stripped spur gears
stripped input gear to rear diff
broken front wheel hub/steering block
motor bearings went bad
pivot balls

would not recommend it.
If you are set on a 3s get granite/bigrock, if not get the new 4s outcast or kraton.

 

[CosmoM3]

The plastic diffs don't help either. The rear diffs are typically the first to get destroyed. Happened both on my Vorteks and Typhon 3S.

 

[Glitch]

The plastic diffs don't help either. The rear diffs are typically the first to get destroyed. Happened both on my Vorteks and Typhon 3S.

Exactly my problem, the plastic spur and diffs are killer for the 3s line. I would buy an ultimate-esque 3s with metal drivetrain and beefed up HD plastic parts if I could.

 

[CosmoM3]

Exactly my problem, the plastic spur and diffs are killer for the 3s line. I would buy an ultimate-esque 3s with metal drivetrain and beefed up HD plastic parts if I could.

and at that point, you're already spending 6S money, which in comparison to the 3S series, they're not even on the same planet.

 

[StaticX]

Hi Guys

Thank you for all the feedback, i was reading some other forum topics relating to issues with the Vorteks and taking everything into consideration i believe i should just spend a bit more now and opt for the Kraton 6s option

 

[GRC]

and at that point, you're already spending 6S money, which in comparison to the 3S series, they're not even on the same planet.

Not really, because once you buy a 6s, then you start realizing that also needs upgrades. A fully upgraded 3s still costs significantly less than a fully upgraded 6s.

I have a fully upgraded Granite. It’s a damn tank. I love that I can bash the hell out if it with very little maintenance and cost at this point. Yes, at this point I’ve spent as much as a 6s. But from what I can tell, to get the same durability from a 6s (M2C chassis, shock towers, etc) you’re looking at close to $1000

 

[Bustedaw11]

I bash the hell out of my big rock... aside from sloppy rod end balls I have broken absolutely nothing.
Only thing I've done is filled the diffs with new 20k/15k fluid and red n tacky the gears. Oh to be fair I sealed the module and am running a power hobby clamp on fan mount and rocket fan/ no heat sink. Thats because I chose not to gear down for my tall grass mainly.

I have no clue how some folks break so much.. I've nailed curbs topped out and sent this thing to the moon many o times with some really terrible landings..

 

[Mathieu]

I think it all depends on the driver and the terrain and the weather.

Got a Vorteks 3S BLX last year and a Granite 3S BLX “for my boys”… and they both perform and seem equally résistent.
But driving in wet and gravel area will get you sand everywhere. If you don’t clean this properly it will be a disaster for the durability of whatever car you drive.
And so does running to walls and landing on concrete in a skate park.

I the end of the day, what is the most important? Having fun driving, breaking and repairing or having a shiny car with no scratch crying on shelf!

Those car are happy when dirty.
Go have some fun no matter what car you get. Just get one you like because you will endup having to keep your eyes on it when she flies. So might as well get one you like.

Have fun!
I am waiting for the new Kraton 6S for myself because my boys don’t want to share their car now!!! They are more addicted than me (7 and 11).

 

[lee82gx]

I would look at 3rd party brushless motors such as Hobbywing or rocket or surpass to replace a busted firma motor. They are half the price and not less than 9/10th the performance, when the time arrives.

 

[RCbuzz]

We have several 3s Arrma cars, once you figure them out they are loads of fun.

First things first, set the end points on the servo, seal the power module (or cut a hole in your chassis under the spur), make sure the gear mesh is good. If you are watching the budget but want to upgrade a little, install an aluminum metal yoke on the rear diff and make sure they are shimmed correctly.

Driving of course makes a huge difference, set the remote to 50% and practice. I think the Vorteks is a good value for what you get.

Like others have said the stock spektrum 3200kV is a good motor, bearings fail due to dirt ingress into the power module.

 

[StaticX]

Hi Guys

thank you for all the feedback, its great hearing all the different opinions.

So, it seems i will be getting a Kraton 6s V5 . . . It's basically brand new only had been run twice and its costing me less than what i would have paid out on the Vorteks 3s

Once again appreciate all the feedback, will open a thread once i receive the Kraton.

 

[lee82gx]

Hi Guys

thank you for all the feedback, its great hearing all the different opinions.

So, it seems i will be getting a Kraton 6s V5 . . . It's basically brand new only had been run twice and its costing me less than what i would have paid out on the Vorteks 3s

Once again appreciate all the feedback, will open a thread once i receive the Kraton.

You will love it. I had both 4x4 3s and 6s, the 6s is way more powerful, way more fun. Just learn to service the diffs, change the diff oils to 30k/500k/60k Front/Center/Rear, and check shock fluids als. as driveline wear and tear is a real thing.

 

[RCbuzz]

Hi Guys

thank you for all the feedback, its great hearing all the different opinions.

So, it seems i will be getting a Kraton 6s V5 . . . It's basically brand new only had been run twice and its costing me less than what i would have paid out on the Vorteks 3s

Once again appreciate all the feedback, will open a thread once i receive the Kraton.

That is a great rig, +1 you are going to love it!

Welcome to the forum!

 

[StaticX]

That is a great rig, +1 you are going to love it!

Welcome to the forum!

Thank you very much, i will post a thread on the new purchase shortly

You will love it. I had both 4x4 3s and 6s, the 6s is way more powerful, way more fun. Just learn to service the diffs, change the diff oils to 30k/500k/60k Front/Center/Rear, and check shock fluids als. as driveline wear and tear is a real thing.

Ill definitely need to lean how to service and maintain the rig properly, thank you for the advice