Kraton Another probable diff issue…

[cmoney]

Hey all. I love my Kraton 6s but the diff clicking/grinding is super aggravating. Over the summer I rebuilt all diffs, and shimmed them, but a few drives since then have proved that I have more work to do.

I’m planning on taking the car apart again and checking gear wear and diff tolerances, maybe that’s where the issue is.

I’m not sure if it’s center, front, or rear, but it only occurs when I’m reversing, switching from forward to reverse, when braking, or when coming to a stop.

I’ve attached some videos of the behavior, hopefully they may be semi-helpful. Thank you all in advance.

 

[Moirae]

Hey all. I love my Kraton 6s but the diff clicking/grinding is super aggravating. Over the summer I rebuilt all diffs, and shimmed them, but a few drives since then have proved that I have more work to do.

I’m planning on taking the car apart again and checking gear wear and diff tolerances, maybe that’s where the issue is.

I’m not sure if it’s center, front, or rear, but it only occurs when I’m reversing, switching from forward to reverse, when braking, or when coming to a stop.

I’ve attached some videos of the behavior, hopefully they may be semi-helpful. Thank you all in advance.

I'm going to take a stab at it and say maybe your front bulkhead is cracked or something.

 

[RC Steve]

This sounds like bad memories of my Proline. In that case it was an out of spec gear box causing the ring gear to push the input gear out of the way. If it happens during hard breaking but not when accelerating it's most likely your front gear box. Check to see that the gear box cover is flush with the gear box. If there is a gap then your diff isn't seated properly. Also check the case for damage. If everything looks good, I recommend replacing the gear box out of general purpose. If you keep going in the same circles you'll keep ending up in the same place.

 

[cmoney]

Thanks guys. Will check bulkheads. Could very well be that, causing the input pinion to be out of tolerance.

 

[cmoney]

Still having issues after fully rebuilt front diff, shimmed internally and externally. Will need to check rear diff.

 

[Moirae]

Still having issues after fully rebuilt front diff, shimmed internally and externally. Will need to check rear diff.

But did you replace the bulkhead?

 

[hobo]

mine was clicking not so long ago when braking the front gear box cover where the screw go's in was snapped off so replaced just the cover with an old one I had so was an easy fix. had clicking before and had a tooth missing on the crown gear. also had clicking from a diff pin broken inside the diff. for me its mostly the front that go's sometimes the back but never had any trouble with the centre

 

[cmoney]

But did you replace the bulkhead?

That’s the next step, if the problem lies in the front diff. Going to check the rear first

 

[jipper]

I had a similar issue. It was the plastic bulkheads. They really are troublesome. Go aluminum and you will spend more time on the throttle and less wrenching.

 

[SrC]

Just replace the bulkhead with stock plastic. Cheap enough and all will be fine. If you lawn dart or hit things badly, the bulkheads being a structural part take the hit force. Using alloy may be a band aid. Sure looks nice and can serve a purpose, but not neccessarily, considering their PRICE. Been staying with Plastic myself. My driving got better over the years, they don't break or crack.
Alloy is not indestructable. And really doesn't help with performance. Does have its pros also. Like a larger outer input gear BB .It's your choice what works for you.
I get complete Diffs with bulkheads from JennysRC. I always have spare plastic bulkheads around.

 

[cmoney]

I had a similar issue. It was the plastic bulkheads. They really are troublesome. Go aluminum and you will spend more time on the throttle and less wrenching.

Are there any cheap ones that you’d recommend?

 

[jipper]

I have had hot racing and basher queen. The basher queen ones are much better quality. Vitavon is another good one but ships from China. All are around the same price. Another method I have seen people use to cut costs on them is only using the alloy cover from hot racing, but you still run the risk of stripping the plastic threads.

The Benefits they have giving me out ways the cost and am happy I got them.

 

[SrC]

There is no risk of stripping the plastic bulkheads if you drive ok.
And some Alloy ones can be a mixed bag.
Is $100. give or take for Each alloy Bulkhead really worth it? Some only use alloys in the rear or in the front. Again if you keep smashing your front or mostly the back end.
If my driving sucks, I rather perfect it better. And make sure to use a good set of Bumpers.
No fault of the OE plastic parts. Again Stocker bulkheads are so inexpensive. If breaking them too often, have to think about what you are doing there.
An alloy bulkhead cover alone and Alloy Hinge pin blocks are better insurance.
Stocker HD composite plastic bulkheads are only $12.00 retail. Do the math. I
An alloy Wing mount and alloy Tower Mounts are better insurance IMHO.
I am just not quick to use alloys as I break each pastic OE part one by one.. Makes the rig heavier. With that, breakages become even more inevitable elsewhere. Alloys cannot make a rig Bulletproof. No such RC animal. I would rather have my bulkhead break/crack first, before my chassis bending.

If you are so inclined to get alloy ones, and want to save coin, these have also become popular if you are all into alloy bling.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/314219627026?chn=ps&var=612859980996&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1FC0R12RnRCSFCTwnAvHSMQ69&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=612859980996_314219627026&targetid=4580702891777580&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640321&mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702891777580&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=cbe99869fd271de45555fcf4708c9412