Anyone try gpm cvd shafts

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Definitely misleading! or I’m an idiot... ?

I was focused on this part.
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At least they are only $40 a set instead of $20 each. I’m gonna pick some up for that reason alone. I keep shearing the pins off on the diff output side.
I did that on the second run with my O8S. The pin doesn't come centered correctly, so it shears off. It also happened on my K8S. Does M2C sell CVDS for the 8s Arrma? It looks like they don't or I missed it on their website.
 
Might have to get some pin material and start pressing them in myself.
Yeah but the damn stock shaft will still bend like a banana in the rear. The front ones don't bend as much. These trucks are super heavy so I guess that has something to do with it. Maybe 10mm thick steel shafts would not bend? ?
 
Yeah but the damn stock shaft will still bend like a banana in the rear. The front ones don't bend as much. These trucks are super heavy so I guess that has something to do with it. Maybe 10mm thick steel shafts would not bend? ?
Funny enough I don’t seem to bend them, just shearing pins. I’ve only broken one front upper and lower arm, because I rammed it into a fence post. Other than that, this thing is amazingly tough. ?
I’m not shy about jumping it ridiculously high either. ?
 
Ok So it is 3.5mm. I have an old the associate tool kit that it has been extremely bullet proof and it measures exactly 3.5mm. pressed the broken one out and pressed the new associated one in.

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I have the center diff filled with ear plugs and this car does constant wheelies on punch 3. It might be too much torque for the drivetrain to handle. Might have to go back to 20mil and punch on 2.

Put the car to a torture test on a 97f day on asphalt. Tires were griping insane and unbelievable amount of traction. By end of the pack something fell off the truck and it was this...

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As you can see the associated made pin works great and did not break. Most likely I will be using the stock cvd with the associated inserts.

The hell with these gpm garbage.
 
Ok So it is 3.5mm. I have an old the associate tool kit that it has been extremely bullet proof and it measures exactly 3.5mm. pressed the broken one out and pressed the new associated one in.

View attachment 96650
View attachment 96651
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I have the center diff filled with ear plugs and this car does constant wheelies on punch 3. It might be too much torque for the drivetrain to handle. Might have to go back to 20mil and punch on 2.

Put the car to a torture test on a 97f day on asphalt. Tires were griping insane and unbelievable amount of traction. By end of the pack something fell off the truck and it was this...

View attachment 96648
View attachment 96649
View attachment 96653

As you can see the associated made pin works great and did not break. Most likely I will be using the stock cvd with the associated inserts.
That is one reason why I don't want to go too high with my oils. I'm going 200k front, 20mil middle and 100k rear. Someone said go 1 million front/rear. Nah. That might be too much even with stock electronics. My opinion. I'm also not putting giant motors either. Stock electronics for me. Maybe a maxx 5 if the stock ESC ever blows up.
 
Great homebrew ingenuity @Niz55.....I dig it!
Can you share how you cut them and pressed them in? TBH I haven’t the foggiest on how to press pins in.

cheers,
kev
 
I do have max 5 with stock motor. I am running 1mill front and rear.

I will switch out to 100k/20m/100k
It's worth the try. I think that the more you lock your diffs, the more "impact" there is on your drivetrain no?
 
The pin on my left rear dogbone kept sliding out and it's now caused a fair amount of damage to the diff case and rear arm.
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When I removed it today, I figured out why the pin keeps sliding out:
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I am all stock electronics and I haven't opened up any of my diffs at all yet. I do have the punch set to 5 but I primarily run it on grass and dirt. I do have the GPM axles on the way. Hopefully, I will have better luck with them.
 
The pin on my left rear dogbone kept sliding out and it's now caused a fair amount of damage to the diff case and rear arm.View attachment 97079

When I removed it today, I figured out why the pin keeps sliding out:View attachment 97080

I am all stock electronics and I haven't opened up any of my diffs at all yet. I do have the punch set to 5 but I primarily run it on grass and dirt. I do have the GPM axles on the way. Hopefully, I will have better luck with them.
I would suggest that you open the frt and rear diffs at least. Mine were pretty empty on both the O8S and K8S. Very easy to access them anyways
 
I have 3 straight gpm axles only. One of them had broken pin but as you read through the thread I made another one even stronger. I installed all oem ones so no need for these.


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I have 3 straight gpm axles only. One of them had broken pin but as you read through the thread I made another one even stronger. I installed all oem ones so no need for these.
Please keep all for sale posts in the classified section.
 
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