axial scx10 or trx4

[BashTillBroken]

is the fusion pro programmable?

 

[Killacam]

is the fusion pro programmable?

Yes, you can use a hw program card.

 

[BashTillBroken]

Probably go with that because it will lower cg not having an esc and I allready have a program card

 

[morrjr71]

As I said in my earlier post, I love my SCX10.2 Ford F100. It's my favorite crawler. I found out a couple of days ago that Horizon has a sale on the Axial SCX10.3 Early Bronco for $299.99 ($200 off MSRP), and I had to have this Bronco for my crawler collection. Delivery of the Bronco is scheduled for Saturday.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-10-scx10iii-early-ford-bronco-4wd-rtr/AXI03014B.html

I agree with SrC: the TRX-4 GTS shocks are a vast improvement over the stock plastic-bodied shocks found on many crawlers. In addition to my TRX-4 Defender, I have the TRX-4 GTS shocks on my SCX10.2 Ford F100 and my Rochobby 1/6 scale 1941 Willys Jeep.

 

[MAVERICK@2]

Probably go with that because it will lower cg not having an esc and I allready have a program card

So the big question is what are you going to do with this crawler?

-Taking on a hiking trail
-Bashing around in a creek (lots of water)
-Ultra slow LCG (comp rig)
-Or do you just want a scale looking rig

I have all of the already listed suggestions all are good. I have also built a handful of
g-speed comp crawlers.

Personally I like basic crawlers. All the extra servos and wiring is unnecessary for the small amount of benefits.

This would be my suggestion for an all around 1st build. Like ones I have built for my young kids

-Scx10ii builders kit
-h/w 1080 ESC
-Holmes crawle master sport 5 slot motor
Around a 12turn
-35kg Amazon servo with aluminum horn
-Amazon 40$ metal beadlocks
-proline, jconsepts, pitbull tires 4.75”
-trx4 shocks with yellow springs (soft)
-Crawler innovation foams 1/4” smaller than tire size
-Shorty pack 3s
-cheap Amazon front bumper
-SSD bent steering linkage
- body of choice
-Overdrive front gearing

But this is just my opinion (experience)
for keeping it simple

 

[BashTillBroken]

Got my crawler used ended up being an scx10 ii

 

[morrjr71]

Got my crawler used ended up being an scx10 ii

That's a good choice for a first crawler. If you decide to upgrade it, aftermarket support is great.

 

[SrC]

I haven't done any comps, what are the evil features? I can see the 2-speed might be useful in comps if you need to sprint a ways.

If I did it again I would have gone for the Sport instead, no lockers, no 2-speed. The problem I have is the name "Sport". When it comes to cars, Sport usually means "You couldn't afford the good one so we are going to give you some chrome exhaust and this fancy Sport sticker."

@BashTillBroken You will need to figure out what tires work for your terrain. The ones SRC mentioned are very good. I'm running JConcepts Ruptures and have run in the past Hyrax (very popular) and RC4WD Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ. All of them pretty good for my area. But look around and see what other's are running. The stock tires should be fine to start with.


The 1080 is a solid choice and what I'm currently running, with an HH TrailMaster Sport <- there's that Sport thing again. Realistically it's really a great motor for $20. It got replaced after the stock Titan let the smoke out. I did drop a dime on the servo.

Sometimes, it's about tuning and experience than the equipment. Money can't buy skill. So keep in mind that all the stock stuff will get you up and running. Things will break or you will find weakness. Then figure out what you want to do. Crawling requires patience when tuning and driving.

1080 is a Good ESC for any Crawler. I run those, but would also consider the new ISDT ESC-70 ( $25.) I have one already in my Vintage Losi XXX-T. Geared tall and runs so cool.

I have the TRX-4 sport roller. But actually added the 2-speed Option Kit to it. It has its advantages. Just needs to be installed correctly and the gears lubed well, or shifting speeds back and forth can get tempermental.
And never change speeds while rolling!!

That's a good choice for a first crawler. If you decide to upgrade it, aftermarket support is great.

You can easily spend over $1k in option parts and scale accessories from Scale licensed "Warn Winches" etc and the list goes on and on. Easy with adding too much weight. There are brass weight parts that are endless. If anything always keep the weight bias to the front. Never the rear. And Run softer "Foam inserts" at the front wheels. Maintain the weight as Unprung weight. Not onto the chassis above the "sprung" Frame rails. When Feasible.

FWIW, I never considered my TRX-4 as a true comp rig. I feel my 2 SC10.2's are best for that. The TRX-4 has a higher center of Gravity as well, because of the Portals, which honestly doesn't offer any great adavantage with climbing or Clearance. Its only a few mm difference. It performs very well, but only because I needed to add much weight to it. In all the Right places.

 

[SrC]

IMHO, the TRX-4 is Not compable out the box. Needs more tweaking. But A fun challenge IMHO. Box stock TRX-4 tires are good enough to start with.
But the Axials all are compable for the most part right out the box. Just will need better tires for sure. Stocker Axial tires aren't all that.
I highly reccommend PitBull Rock Beast tires. Sticky as all heck. Even in the dirt and mud. Worth the coin. And Crawler tires last forever unlike Basher tires. You will have them for quite awhile. Most any Crawler tire run best after a bath soaked with Simple Green and a nice break in. They get better with use.
Ultimately, just a good set of Tires and Foams can make any Crawler run way better. The first thing to consider with a new One. A nice set of metal wheels is also big plus. Rebuildable Beadlocking types.

 

[Jerold]

I have the TRX-4 sport roller. But actually added the 2-speed Option Kit to it. It has its advantages. Just needs to be installed correctly and the gears lubed well, or shifting speeds back and forth can get tempermental.
And never change speeds while rolling!!

The main advantages I see for the 2-speed is wheel speed when you need it. Also if you have some distance to cover and it's easy terrain.

Just my opinion here, but I would modify the last bit. The internals are a dog clutch that grabs pockets inside the gear and you need to have the gears moving for it to engage; similar to a ten speed where the chain has to be moving.

You can switch it while sitting still. However, the clutch may not seat and the tiny servos are just putting pressure on it until something turns. The Traxxas micro servos are delicate (AKA junk) and I'm sure the drive train is stronger than the servo.

Switching under full throttle is not the best idea; although it does it just fine ... until it breaks, there is additional stress on the gears, bearings and everything else and it's not a race car. So I would say avoid switching under full throttle and slow steady throttle is the best situation for all the components.

 

[SrC]

My shift dog never gets stuck now, because I lubed the Trans/dog properly.
Yes the Trx shift servo is pure garbage. Getting an upgrade servo with the proper Arm/ Horn can be a bear. Not even worth the hassel. But can be done. I feel the 2nd speed not necessary at all. But if you like to sprint, like its some quasi Basher and do some smallish jumps maybe its ok too.
I only trail hike with my TRX-4. So 2 speed can be fun. Most compable Crawlers will never use a 2-Speed transmission. They will have a "Dig" or similar.
I use my Axial's more for the technical stuff, climbing and all.
The Axial transmissions are like a Swiss Watch. TRX-4 tranny not quite. Too much slop IMHO by comparison. Having less gear precision. The Portals add even more slop to the final drive. I find it more appealing to have the least amount of Drivetrain slop when doing technical comping.
Wear and tear will get the best of both the TRX4 and SCX10.2. Parts wear out eventually. Usually at the pumpkins first.