Fireteam Bearing questions

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Anthony jaques

Active Member
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Location
Delta colorado
Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Vendetta
If I get these bearings they should fit the fireteam right? This is me assuming all 6s essentially use the same bearings across the line

Screenshot_20230925_134609_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
They should work, but do not use Ceramic bearings on a basher. They don't hold up to the dirt.
It's your money, but people have tried and regretted it. Don't repeat that mistake.
Buy the pack of regular bearings instead.
 
It's a fit, (y)but just wasting your coin there IMHO. You can get 2 sets of standard chromium for the same price or way less. Are you sure every single one of them in the pack are in fact Ceramic BB's?
I only run Hybrid Ceramic BB's in my motor's. With great success. And where it matters most.
Is there a specific reason you want to run Ceramics in your FT?
They won't be any more durable or perform any better than the Chromium BB's.
Especially in a basher rig. And still need careful maintenance like any other type of BB.
Ultimately your call.
Yes they are a fit. And TRBRC make decent BB's.
Yet for the price, any brand of Hybrid Ceramics are just not worth it at all. All BB's are consumable items. Just have basic Chromium ones on hand. Abec 3+ rated ones are the best. Merely having Ceramic balls does nothing more for you for the price. Just bragging rights until they wear out like the plain ones do.
Do consider installing them in your motor only.
They should work, but do not use Ceramic bearings on a basher. They don't hold up to the dirt.
It's your money, but people have tried and regretted it. Don't repeat that mistake.
Buy the pack of regular bearings instead.
+1
100%
 
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They should work, but do not use Ceramic bearings on a basher. They don't hold up to the dirt.
It's your money, but people have tried and regretted it. Don't repeat that mistake.
Buy the pack of regular bearings instead.
That is Def good info save ceramic for vendetta check but not those ones lol
That is Def good info save ceramic for vendetta check but not those ones lol
Is trd better than Eddie's aways mixed reveiws
 
All of the options for arrma std bearings are probably from the same supplier, unless you have a top speed road rig just stick with OE replacements. You'll get a mixed bag of opinions, a lot of it comes from quality control and variation in applications.
 
They are all a mixed bag no matter the brand. I buy them all, and sometimes you simply get bad ones, some dry of any lube. I clean out and repack them 1/3 with grease when new out the package before running them. They will last way longer. And I might do that one more time before I toss them due to normal wear. TRBRC told me this over the phone. Many swear by Avid BB's. Cost a bit more. Jims, TRBRC, Fast Eddies Avids. Your call. Chromium's are the best way to go. I don't even run Ceramics in my Lim or Infr. No need to. A $waste$ IMHO. I have tried them years back in other models. ($Boca Bearings$) Been there.
These Hybrid ceramics, only have Ceramic balls, The inner and outer Races are still Chromium and still wear out just as fast.
100% Full ceramic BB's are super costly and not practical for RC Hobby model use. You can probably spend even close to $500.+ for a set of Full Ceramic BB's. If you coud source the proper sizes in a set.
Used in motors, they do run cooler, hence lasting longer. Ceramic balls don't conduct heat, and handle very high temps. An advantage with motors only. Motors run at way higher RPM's than the chassis BB's do.
And with type of motor BB's, you only use A drop of Synthetic oil, No grease.
 
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@Anthony jaques I'd agree with what everyone else has said thus far in that ceramic is most likely not going to be worth the upgraded cost.

You can get yourself 2-3 sets of bearings from Fast Eddy for the same price and be just fine, in most cases.

I've known Eddy for the past 20+ years and he's a great guy and will also do what he can to help you if you have any issues with the bearings. Plus he helps support this and our other RC forums!
 
All of the options for arrma std bearings are probably from the same supplier, unless you have a top speed road rig just stick with OE replacements. You'll get a mixed bag of opinions, a lot of it comes from quality control and variation in applications.
BB's in general are cheap gumball consumable RC items, no matter which ones you spend your hard earned money on. Just Get used to replacing them regulary.
There is no magic BB that will last and last with any RC use.
I am sure guys spending $5K+ grand on their 200+ MPH Speed runners have a desire for them. And even that could be splitting hairs.
For my speed running purposes it is best to clean them out of ANY grease and just use Synthetic Oil on all of them instead. Will spin better, still wont last as a grease would.
Hybrid RC Ceramic BB's have been tested and just don't spin any better or free'er than Standard Chromium ones for Speed running purposes.
 
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BB's on general are cheap gumball cosumable RC items, no matter which ones youu spend your hard earned money on. Just Get used to replacing them regulary.
Yup. I have a RPM ball bearing cleaner that if I am feeling spicy I'll clean a ball bearing set 1-2, but more times than not I use them and replace them. Very cheap.
 
Yeah that RPM Bearing Blaster, is the bomb. Had both sizes for like 20 plus years now. Indespensable RC tool.

1695674754250.png

1695674786188.png

SuperLube grease is great for the drivetrain BB's. Basher setups. Its Synthetic and just the right Viscosity, not too thck, IMHO. Flows well and is WP. I use SuperLube Oil for the Motor BB's and some of my Onroad model BB's throughout.

I use a Brake cleaner spray along with the Blaster to flush them out well. Nothing works better. If they feel gritty or sloppy and loose after a cleaning, then the BB is toast. Toss and replace.
Your new BB's will have a head start, lasting longer if you do this when they are new out the package. Only fill/pack with 1/3 grease, No more.
I have had brand new untouched BB's fail within minutes of running, because they were dry of any lube when produced. I leave nothing to chance now.
Even my new motors , or never run Motor BB's get a drop of oil before its very first run. (y)
 
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I have that bearing blaster as well, but honestly, I've spend more money on break cleaner than what a replacement bearing ends up costing.
Just buy multiple sets and swap them out. I do still clean the occasional bearing, but just got too messy and expensive.

Eddy's are just fine, so are all the ones below:, my favorites are the avid hybrid (1 side plastic, other side metal shield).
Buy the wheel bearings and stock up, never had to replace the others after the initial switch.
Motors are special and need better grades, but Jim's has a list on what is recommended.


https://www.fasteddybearings.com/
https://jimsbearings.com/
https://www.avidrc.com/
https://trbrc.com/
https://www.acerracing.com/
https://www.vxb.com/Default.asp
https://www.bocabearings.com/
 
@Anthony jaques I'd agree with what everyone else has said thus far in that ceramic is most likely not going to be worth the upgraded cost.

You can get yourself 2-3 sets of bearings from Fast Eddy for the same price and be just fine, in most cases.

I've known Eddy for the past 20+ years and he's a great guy and will also do what he can to help you if you have any issues with the bearings. Plus he helps support this and our other RC forums!
Good to know I can dig that
 
Brake cleaner is rather cheap as solvents go? :unsure: Any cheap brand is fine.
I don't use much at all. It cleans quick. Just wear gloves for sure.
 
Yeah that RPM Bearing Blaster, is the bomb. Had both sizes for like 20 plus years now. Indespensable RC tool.

View attachment 324059
View attachment 324060
SuperLube grease is great for the drivetrain BB's. Basher setups. Its Synthetic and just the right Viscosity, not too thck, IMHO. Flows well and is WP. I use SuperLube Oil for the Motor BB's and some of my Onroad model BB's throughout.

I use a Brake cleaner spray along with the Blaster to flush them out well. Nothing works better. If they feel gritty or sloppy and loose after a cleaning, then the BB is toast. Toss and replace.
Your new BB's will have a head start, lasting longer if you do this when they are new out the package. Only fill/pack with 1/3 grease, No more.
I have had brand new untouched BB's fail within minutes of running, because they were dry of any lube when produced. I leave nothing to chance now.
Even my new motors , or never run Motor BB's get a drop of oil before its very first run. (y)
What does this do obviously blasts bearings but how does it work
 
You place the BB on the bottom of the B Blaster, then cover it. The cover has a small hole for the Spray Straw tip. This spray is forced perfectly into the BB races and balls under good enough pressure to flush out dirt and old grease. Short blasts of the solvent really cleans them well. Its really a simple concept. The design is very similar to Scale car BB Grease packing tools. Basically the BB sits centered over the cone, most any size BB, and when covered, Spray is forced only through the Races and balls. Even a Spray gel type grease can be applied this way with the Bearing Blaster. RPM makes a large and small Blaster. This has been around for like 20 + years. Back when BB's were costly, so you serviced them. BB sets back then would cost like $80.00+ for basic BB's. Nowadays BB's can be had for so cheap, so they are just tossed and replaced. I rather service mine. I get much longer use out of them. I rather flush out the factory grease and use my own. I know for sure what is in there. Many NIB BB's come dry as a bone.

This below is the small version. Its a simple cheap RC tool that works.

https://rpmrcproducts.com/shop/tools/bearing-blaster/

Instructional videos:




 
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You place the BB on the bottom of the B Blaster, then cover it. The cover has a small hole for the Spray Straw tip. This spray is forced perfectly into the BB races and balls under good enough pressure to flush out dirt and old grease. Short blasts of the solvent really cleans them well. Its really a simple concept. The design is very similar to Scale car BB Grease packing tools. Basically the BB sits centered over the cone, most any size BB, and when covered, Spray is forced only through the Races and balls. Even a Spray gel type grease can be applied this way with the Bearing Blaster. RPM makes a large and small Blaster. This has been around for like 20 + years. Back when BB's were costly, so you serviced them. BB sets back then would cost like $80.00+ for basic BB's. Nowadays BB's can be had for so cheap, so they are just tossed and replaced. I rather service mine. I get much longer use out of them. I rather flush out the factory grease and use my own. I know for sure what is in there. Many NIB BB's come dry as a bone.

This below is the small version. Its a simple cheap RC tool that works.

https://rpmrcproducts.com/shop/tools/bearing-blaster/

Instructional videos:




Thank you
Thank you
I love working and maintaining almost more that driving, almost lol I will be getting one
 
Yeah for me the wrenching aspect is like 80% of the hobby for me. Driving is the other 20%. The better you wrench, the more you drive.:giggle:
Less down time when all is in good operational order. Preventive maintenance matters.
 
Yeah for me the wrenching aspect is like 80% of the hobby for me. Driving is the other 20%. The better you wrench, the more you drive.:giggle:
Less down time when all is in good operational order. Preventive maintenance matters.
When ya don't maintain they break often at the worst time. when I can run my truck on multiple packs with no breaks I smile
I'm going to get into building hybrids
 
Yeah Arrma's are based on a moduler design. So the many parts can be mixed and matched. Basically all of the different Arrma models offered are parts bin creations, designed at Arrma UK.
 
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