Best gyro for speed running?

eddywatson

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Hi guys
Does anybody know the best gyro to use for speed running?

I use perfect pass launch control too along with radiolink rc6gs TX and RX

Any info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
 

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Your radiolink has a built-in gyro that works great.
 

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Futaba GYC 441 is generally considered to be the best and most of the speed runners use that one.
I have them in each of my speed runners and they work great. They're pricey but then again, so is your car....
 

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Your radiolink has a built-in gyro that works great.
I’ve never used my Radiolink gyro, but I’m about to get a crash course...wait, let me rephrase that. Any tips or tricks for setting it up? I’ve heard most speed runners use very little gain with them, like 20%-ish?
 

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Fwiw
I was watching a YT with raz and KT and he says he has his set at 35 or so. Having it set high results in a larger turning radius at higher speeds which is a non issue for speed running so I guess it makes sense to increase the gain.
 

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I’ve never used my Radiolink gyro, but I’m about to get a crash course...wait, let me rephrase that. Any tips or tricks for setting it up? I’ve heard most speed runners use very little gain with them, like 20%-ish?
Yea if you turn it up too high its kinda unusable. I'd start at 10 - 15. You can definitely see it in action in our drag videos. No way we'd be going so straight without it 🤣
 

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I’ve never used my Radiolink gyro, but I’m about to get a crash course...wait, let me rephrase that. Any tips or tricks for setting it up? I’ve heard most speed runners use very little gain with them, like 20%-ish?

I had tried the gyro on the radio link RX and the car would go into death wobbles around 70-80 mph.
Definitely play with it and try to tune it at different speeds. That Radiolink one seemed to only be stable with the setting under 15% for my car.

My point being is that if you go run the car at 50 mph and it seems good and then go out to do a speed run at 100+ it could lead to disaster.

I am now looking at possibly using my Futaba GYC 441. Oddly enough there are very few videos explaining how to set them up outside of RC drifting applications.
 

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Oddly enough there are very few videos explaining how to set them up outside of RC drifting applications.
Yes, I’m going to keep looking but I haven’t found anything remotely useful on YT as of yet. The Futaba seems to be the most highly regarded for sure. I’d like to use what I already have if possible. I’ll keep looking. I don’t know how many, if anyone, in our resident Speed Run community is using the Radiolink.
 

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I had tried the gyro on the radio link RX and the car would go into death wobbles around 70-80 mph.
Definitely play with it and try to tune it at different speeds. That Radiolink one seemed to only be stable with the setting under 15% for my car.

My point being is that if you go run the car at 50 mph and it seems good and then go out to do a speed run at 100+ it could lead to disaster.

I am now looking at possibly using my Futaba GYC 441. Oddly enough there are very few videos explaining how to set them up outside of RC drifting applications.
They came out with a new one, BTW. The GYC470 has replaced the 441.
 

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I've done 113 mph with radiolink but that's my PB. It was on a road that would make most people wonder wtf is wrong with me for even trying it. Road is so bad I literally can't run my limitless or felony on it and can only attempt speed with my stretched typhon build because of ride height 🤣 🤣. Radiolink handled it like a champ though.
 

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They came out with a new one, BTW. The GYC470 has replaced the 441.

Ah interesting. I wish they gave details on what the difference is.... Likely faster refresh rate or something like that.

Yes, I’m going to keep looking but I haven’t found anything remotely useful on YT as of yet. The Futaba seems to be the most highly regarded for sure. I’d like to use what I already have if possible. I’ll keep looking. I don’t know how many, if anyone, in our resident Speed Run community is using the Radiolink.

I cannot say for sure if the RadioLink is good or bad, but I made the decision at that time about 1 year ago that the car drove fine without the gyro.

Now fast forward a year and I am creeping up on 150+ mph speeds and considering it again. My car changed 1.5 lanes while accelerating and I sure would love to avoid a crash! On that note the reason I bought the Futaba was that for $89 if this device could save me from an $1500 crash it is well worth it.
 

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Ah interesting. I wish they gave details on what the difference is.... Likely faster refresh rate or something like that.
I’ve been looking but can’t find anything. If you do happen to find something let me know. I suppose I could email Futaba.
 

dk10438

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Ah interesting. I wish they gave details on what the difference is.... Likely faster refresh rate or something like that.



I cannot say for sure if the RadioLink is good or bad, but I made the decision at that time about 1 year ago that the car drove fine without the gyro.

Now fast forward a year and I am creeping up on 150+ mph speeds and considering it again. My car changed 1.5 lanes while accelerating and I sure would love to avoid a crash! On that note the reason I bought the Futaba was that for $89 if this device could save me from an $1500 crash it is well worth it.
I called Futaba this am and spoke to tech support. GYC-470 has an updated algorithm and has faster response in SR mode. Those are the only differences so I don't think it's worth it to upgrade from a 441 to a 470. MSRP is the same though....
 

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I called Futaba this am and spoke to tech support. GYC-470 has an updated algorithm and has faster response in SR mode. Those are the only differences so I don't think it's worth it to upgrade from a 441 to a 470. MSRP is the same though....
Yea I don’t notice a difference between the two. I only got it since it was the same price and I was gonna buy one anyways. Maybe since the 441 is discontinued we may be able to find it on sale at some point.
 

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Played with the Noble NB4 settings earlier letting Ch3 control the gyro gain. A single wire from CH3 of the RX to the Gyro G input port.
I have to admit I feel more comfortable already using the gyro in this way knowing a specific number value like a gain of 15, 18, 20, 25 is selected versus just using a flathead screwdriver turning the rotary pot on the gyro and saying "let's see how this works."
 

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Played with the Noble NB4 settings earlier letting Ch3 control the gyro gain. A single wire from CH3 of the RX to the Gyro G input port.
I have to admit I feel more comfortable already using the gyro in this way knowing a specific number value like a gain of 15, 18, 20, 25 is selected versus just using a flathead screwdriver turning the rotary pot on the gyro and saying "let's see how this works."
I also like how you can switch modes running the remote gain.
 

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I also like how you can switch modes running the remote gain.

What setting/ amount have you found works best? (most people say +15-35)
What scenario would you want it on the normal mode (negative values) vs AVCS (positive values)

Also as a side note I noticed the gyro light does not go red till +9. Is yours similar?
 

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What setting/ amount have you found works best? (most people say +15-35)
What scenario would you want it on the normal mode (negative values) vs AVCS (positive values)
Unlike the cheaper gyros you can run a higher percentage with the Futaba. I was trying it out the other weekend at 30% and it worked great. So far I think I’ll stick with the AVCS. Really keeps the car on course better, IMO. Let me know when you get to test it out. I’m curious as to your thoughts on it since I know we talked about that in the past. I’ve noticed when it makes a correction in AVCS that the wheels stay in that direction longer and the car keeps going straight vs the wheels snapping back to center so fast.
 

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Unlike the cheaper gyros you can run a higher percentage with the Futaba. I was trying it out the other weekend at 30% and it worked great. So far I think I’ll stick with the AVCS. Really keeps the car on course better, IMO. Let me know when you get to test it out. I’m curious as to your thoughts on it since I know we talked about that in the past. I’ve noticed when it makes a correction in AVCS that the wheels stay in that direction longer and the car keeps going straight vs the wheels snapping back to center so fast.
That is my understanding that AVCS is the one you want.
Now that I run on foams I am hesitant to purposely put the car in traction limited scenarios and risk chunking the foams.

Probably will have to wait till my next legitimate speed run attempt.
 
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