Big Rock Big Rock V3 - inspection tips/recommendations before first use?

[SaltyLocal]

Hello,

I recently purchased my boy an Arrma Big Rock V3 and I've yet to open the box. His 6th Birthday is coming up and I'd like to get it prepared for him once he opens the box (as I'm sure he'll run outside and test it out). I've watched some YT videos and I'm unsure what screws (V1 vs V2 vs V3 models) should be lock-tyte, tightened/loosened, and/or anything needing white greased or oiled (shocks?). Is it recommended to install the included shock caps (not sure if that's what their called) for added durability/clearance? Also, will I need to calibrate or adjust anything prior to him taking it out for a bash? I've also purchased both a 2s and 3s battery; thinking the 2s will allow him to get use to driving it prior to going out and loosing control of it. Are the 2s OK in it? I'm also thinking I'd turn down the power setting to 50% ?? I also had some 3D prints made to help protect the roof, hood and rear corners (general pics attached). My question is, if I use a hole reamer to add these 3d prints to the body, will this make the body itself weaker and allow it to crack a lot easier?

Finally, in regards to immediate upgrades; are motor mounts from M2C or Hot Racing worth the added cost? Do the Big Rock V3 shocks, ball joints, servo, and spur gear need replaced ASAP? Any other recommendations would greatly be appreciated. Sorry for all the questions.

 

[Exc3l]

Just chuck the 2s in for him and there will be no need to turn it down. Open up the motor module and make sure the gear mesh is set! Set servo endpoints. If needed add Loctite on screws inside the power module after you loosen them and check if everything is ok! I am sure he will have a blast! I think I am forgetting a couple of things but I am sure others will chime in. Happy Birthday to him!!!

 

[parcou]

Finally, in regards to immediate upgrades; are motor mounts from M2C or Hot Racing worth the added cost? Do the Big Rock V3 shocks, ball joints, servo, and spur gear need replaced ASAP? Any other recommendations would greatly be appreciated. Sorry for all the questions.

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Those items we have a lot of posts and recommendations on upgrades....but I feel the box and this lil guy run it as is and replace as needed....this version has been really good.

Don't need to install the caps or calibrate should be ready out the box. We all recommend check screws to assure they are tight most common is the wheel coming off since factory there was no locitite on it...

 

[SaltyLocal]

Those items we have a lot of posts and recommendations on upgrades....but I feel the box and this lil guy run it as is and replace as needed....this version has been really good.

Don't need to install the caps or calibrate should be ready out the box. We all recommend check screws to assure they are tight most common is the wheel coming off since factory there was no locitite on it...

Thank you for your reply. I’ll be sure to locitite the wheels. Any knowledge of anyone weakening the body if I drill/reamer holes to add 3D printed roof, hood and rear skids? Also, should I be sure the gear in the motor is tightened and then loosened by a turn-and-a-half of the hex screw?

 

[Exc3l]

I’ll be sure to locitite the wheels

By that, he means the axle (pic down below). The pinion should be threadlocked into place to make sure it doesent come loose. Use Blue threadlock if possible. Just Shoo Goo and drywall tape the body. don't go through the trouble to make skids. If you break a common part that you know you can fix with the printer, go ahead!

 

[parcou]

Thank you for your reply. I’ll be sure to locitite the wheels. Any knowledge of anyone weakening the body if I drill/reamer holes to add 3D printed roof, hood and rear skids? Also, should I be sure the gear in the motor is tightened and then loosened by a turn-and-a-half of the hex screw?

My bad....here is a video the user is right I was not referring to the wheel nuts. Most of use like me have 3D printed roof skid so no worries on the body and making holes.

 

[PatMarcus172]

1. Check mesh
2. Check the pinion is on tightly and loctite if necessary
3. Check slipper clutch using one of the many available videos. don't loctite it...ever
4. Check the diffs are full of oil and spinning smoothly - front and back. You shouldnt have to do this and I didnt on my Big Rock but I did on my Vorteks. If theyre catching, slightly loosen the diff yoke screws
5. Loctite the drive shafts (as per exc31 above)
6. Check the shocks are full of fluid / feeling good
7. Check the wheel nuts are on tight
8. Make sure you set the steering end points and brake/acceleration setup. The former isnt in the manual but you'll find excellent videos (eg razorrc)
9. Check the tyre rubber to see if it needs glue-ing anywhere (it should be fine)
10. Go round the car checking & tightening up hexes

Optional number 11 - slightly and carefully drill out the body posts where you put the clips in. You'll save yourself and him a lot of finger pain.

Charge that 2S battery and put it on 100% but bear in mind it`ll probably do 30mph with that combo so you may wish to start slower, if he's never had a hobbygrade RC before.

You and he are going to love it. Its great on grass, good on tarmac, rugged for jumping and pretty crash resistant. With a 3S on 100% it'll do nearly 50mph on tarmac and 45mph on grass. Its works well out of the box tho you'll probably need to upgrade the servo (within a few months) and replace the A arms with RPMS (when youve done a few cartwheels). Mine has been a huge pleasure to own (unlike the Vorteks, so far) and I hope yours will be just the same. The Big Rock has a lot of fans here on the forum.

 

[dure16]

Good advice above.

I can tell from your post how much you want this to be perfect for your kid. From someone who grew up without a dad - you rock.

 

[Velodromed]

Hello,

I recently purchased my boy an Arrma Big Rock V3 and I've yet to open the box. His 6th Birthday is coming up and I'd like to get it prepared for him once he opens the box (as I'm sure he'll run outside and test it out). I've watched some YT videos and I'm unsure what screws (V1 vs V2 vs V3 models) should be lock-tyte, tightened/loosened, and/or anything needing white greased or oiled (shocks?). Is it recommended to install the included shock caps (not sure if that's what their called) for added durability/clearance? Also, will I need to calibrate or adjust anything prior to him taking it out for a bash? I've also purchased both a 2s and 3s battery; thinking the 2s will allow him to get use to driving it prior to going out and loosing control of it. Are the 2s OK in it? I'm also thinking I'd turn down the power setting to 50% ?? I also had some 3D prints made to help protect the roof, hood and rear corners (general pics attached). My question is, if I use a hole reamer to add these 3d prints to the body, will this make the body itself weaker and allow it to crack a lot easier?

Finally, in regards to immediate upgrades; are motor mounts from M2C or Hot Racing worth the added cost? Do the Big Rock V3 shocks, ball joints, servo, and spur gear need replaced ASAP? Any other recommendations would greatly be appreciated. Sorry for all the questions.

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The hot racing mount is great and under $20. M2C mount is for when your boy starts sending it like 20 feet up. Those clip things are for adjusting preload on your shocks. I typically start off with a medium size one on each shock and see how it goes. Looks like all your other questions have been answered?

One cool thing about the big rock is it’s painted on the outside of the shell, not the inside. So you can paint the inside whatever color you want and when the outside gets scratched, that color will show. I did orange on my wife’s big rock so when it’s scratched it ‘bleeds’ orange.

what about you? Do you got a car? You got one for your boy so I’m kind of assuming you have one, right? If you don’t, you need to do something about that lol. It’s one thing for a kid to have an RC car… it’s another even more incredible thing for a kid to drive RC cars with his dad.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Meant to add - it is a super cool present and very generous for a six year old. My six year old has a brushless hbx which we all love and it gets sent ! He's only gonna get something as cool as a BR, if he sticks with it. But I have one, so he gets to play with it on 50% sometimes.
My ten year old daughter has a pink/purple Vorteks which is a ton of fun to drive, too.
Doing RCs with the kids is great fun, even if the six year old gets easily bored and goes to build dens.

Anyway, from one RC family to another, we wish you very much happiness and quite a bit of wrenching.......and quite a bit of spending.
And a whole lot of smiles.

 

[*420+3RC*]

I have nothing to add seeing as alot of the "Pros" have taken care of ur list. Do get a better servo. I also run a Big Rock. LOVE IT! Get urself 1 if u don't have a rig. Bash It Out!!

 

[Velodromed]

I have nothing to add seeing as alot of the "Pros" have taken care of ur list. Do get a better servo. I also run a Big Rock. LOVE IT! Get urself 1 if u don't have a rig. Bash It Out!!

This ain’t pro…it’s Sport Class

 

[*420+3RC*]

This ain’t pro…it’s Sport Class

Lol. To a newb its Pro Sports Class. U guys just nice enough to let us under classmen sit in

 

[BigRockAlpha]

Optional number 11 - slightly and carefully drill out the body posts where you put the clips in. You'll save yourself and him a lot of finger pain....my 2 cents, instead of drilling larger body clip holes I just bent the clips outwards a little. I've never had an issue with a clip coming out and you can buy replacement clips just about anywhere for $3.99. I agree with everything else the poster said...solid advice.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Thank you all for your thoughtful replies! I’m just looking to add any extra durability to my boys’ first RC, while keeping it attractive for him.

Speaking of attraction, has anyone added an Arrma rear wing and wing mounts to theirs WITHOUT having to cut the BRCC body? I’ve seen numerous videos detailing the additions but they all seem to cut the body. I’d rather keep it stock or find a means to simply add it to the rear of the bodies bed with a direct fit type. Again, thank you all for your generous responses! I look forward to this quality time with my son!

 

[DRBNGR]

... Check slipper clutch using one of the many available videos. don't loctite it...ever ...

Why don't loctite the slipper clutch?

 

[dure16]

Thank you all for your thoughtful replies! I’m just looking to add any extra durability to my boys’ first RC, while keeping it attractive for him.

Speaking of attraction, has anyone added an Arrma rear wing and wing mounts to theirs WITHOUT having to cut the BRCC body? I’ve seen numerous videos detailing the additions but they all seem to cut the body. I’d rather keep it stock or find a means to simply add it to the rear of the bodies bed with a direct fit type. Again, thank you all for your generous responses! I look forward to this quality time with my son!

I wonder if the vorteks wing would fit. Might be worth checking into.

 

[*420+3RC*]

All ive seen. U have to cut the body. But I cant tell its cut if the wing and mount are on. Look at the bed on mine. Can't tell. And very glad as a newb to have it. Saved my backend a few times. Literal and figurative

 

[PatMarcus172]

All ive seen. U have to cut the body. But I cant tell its cut if the wing and mount are on. Look at the bed on mine. Can't tell. And very glad as a newb to have it. Saved my backend a few times. Literal and figurative

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I agree with Steve. I have the Outcast 4S wing on mine and you absolutely cant tell the body has been cut. I was very nervous of doing it but once the scissors had made the first incision, I lost all fear and started snipping away. Whats more it doesn't seem to weaken the body at all.

 

[SaltyLocal]

I wonder if the vorteks wing would fit. Might be worth checking into.

I’m going to look into the Vortek wing. I’m really not wanting to cut the body. Heck, I suck at cutting coupons accurately.