Breaking M2C CVD Pins

[djrahbee]

Broke one of the Vitavon pins.
Wish I could buy these locally. Anyone know if a hardware store would carry a makeshift version? Tried searching for "dowel pins".

I just installed the vitavon ones on the rear of my K8 cuz I was tired of breaking the m2c ones. Haven't broke one yet but then again haven't had much of chance to run them cause everything else keeps breaking. I got a bunch of m2c ones and been replacing those, too many to remember. I have broken them with the droop issues fixed..depends on your driving style I guess. Let me know what you end up using because I think I'm going to be right behind you..

 

[KnowAir]

This has to be the problem. I just don't know what else I can do to fix it. If there's no binding through full range of shock movement, what else could it be?' I'm careful not to land at full throttle.

Over extension or compression on hard hits. These things are so heavy, everything flexes on hard impacts. We may not be able to recreate the amount of force the arms and such are seeing when the truck lands from a jump, or tumble..

 

[djrahbee]

Yeah, I threw droop screws into my K8 first thing. Using the shicks to limit down travel is a fatal flaw I think for the Arrma 8s line. I don't understand why Arrma didn't install them from factory? I mean, the holes are there? Silly. I put 2 each 3mm x 10mm SHCS in each arm. Then saw KT install 5x25mm screws into the gearboxes through the chassis. I did the same, you have to drill out the front and rearmost holes to accept the 25mm screws. This shold really help prevent the screws from pulling out of the gearboxes. I know some have mentioned not wanting to install droop screws for fear of ripping the gearbox off the chassis.

I used 3d printed parts and fuel line on the inside and outside of shock bodies. It deff helped but didn't "fix" it. I have some limiting straps but haven't installed them yet. I got the fuel line mod from someone on reddit. I've heard the plastic is too soft for droop screws on a 8s rig.

 

[stock20]

Yeah, I threw droop screws into my K8 first thing. Using the shocks to limit down travel is a fatal flaw I think for the Arrma 8s line. I don't understand why Arrma didn't install them from factory? I mean, the holes are there? Silly. I put 2 each 3mm x 10mm SHCS in each arm. Then saw KT install 5x25mm screws into the gearboxes through the chassis. I did the same, you have to drill out the front and rearmost holes to accept the 25mm screws. This shold really help prevent the screws from pulling out of the gearboxes. I know some have mentioned not wanting to install droop screws for fear of ripping the gearbox off the chassis.

Trying to follow you here - when you say gearbox are you referring to rear diff? Droop screws could rip off the rear diff?

 

[Hammer Down]

Has anyone tried these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2854254335...U27nzKegg0P2xcn0RbBDY6ZQ==|tkp:BlBMUJCigbuFYw

 

[KnowAir]

I used 3d printed parts and fuel line on the inside and outside of shock bodies. It deff helped but didn't "fix" it. I have some limiting straps but haven't installed them yet. I got the fuel line mod from someone on reddit. I've heard the plastic is too soft for droop screws on a 8s rig.

Perhaps it's too soft, IDK. If you look at the holes Arrma molded for the droop screws, It's as if they planned on using some piece of aluminum or plastic to be incorporated to disperse the force possibly? Why they never saw it through, IDK. Same for the v1 K8S front bumper. There are clearly molded in recesses and such for some type of front bumper, but, to my knowledge they never released one? Strange.

 

[Hammer Down]

Perhaps it's too soft, IDK. If you look at the holes Arrma molded for the droop screws, It's as if they planned on using some piece of aluminum or plastic to be incorporated to disperse the force possibly? Why they never saw it through, IDK. Same for the v1 K8S front bumper. There are clearly molded in recesses and such for some type of front bumper, but, to my knowledge they never released one? Strange.

They must have realized it was a bad design but the molds were already made..

 

[KnowAir]

Trying to follow you here - when you say gearbox are you referring to rear diff? Droop screws could rip off the rear diff?

Yes, the screws that secure the front and rear gearboxes to the aluminum chassis. There are reports of the screws pulling right out of the plastic gearboxes. I can believe it, they are quite short. Will I ever bash it that hard? Likely not, but cheap insurance, easy to do. Check out KT's YT vid on the v2 O8S.

 

[djrahbee]

It’s been a fkn nightmare and I’m currently taking a break from my 8s rigs. Tired of breaking things that were supposed to “bulletproof” or “ungraded” only for m2c and everyone else blame the user.

 

[KnowAir]

It’s been a fkn nightmare and I’m currently taking a break from my 8s rigs. Tired of breaking things that were supposed to “bulletproof” or “ungraded” only for m2c and everyone else blame the user.

I can understand that, bigger scale, more dollars. I'm just getting started with Arrma 8s as you probably already know. Much to learn, with that, take my suggestions as just that. Not much experience with these 8s Arrma's yet.
FWIW, what you're getting burned out with is exactly why I try to stay stockish with my rigs. I can definitely appreciate a bad ass 8s with all the upgraded stuff, but when does it end? That's what I try to keep in my mind.

 

[stock20]

It’s been a fkn nightmare and I’m currently taking a break from my 8s rigs. Tired of breaking things that were supposed to “bulletproof” or “ungraded” only for m2c and everyone else blame the user.

I wish I could go back to my drive pin problem. Was driving my Kraton 8s like I hated it this past weekend - on an open field with a single drainage grate (aka R/C magnet) with cement boarder that rises 4in above the ground. Clipped the left rear wheel on the boarder going full-bore and shattered the hub of the Masher X wheel. To see a grown man cry...

 

[RC-Dude]

Turns out to be a real pain to get those broken M2C Overkill pins out.

Motorcycle chain tool any good?

 

[Moirae]

I'm still so thankful I don't have any of these problems. I don't know why my arrma 8s are so magical but thank you rc God's! . I just bashed my k8s the other day and after sending it and landing every jump because it doesn't even need air correction 8 times out of 10 I finished bash with zero damage.

I did have bulkhead screws pull out though I didn't even notice until after the bash @KnowAir you know what size screws kt uses?

 

[KnowAir]

I'm still so thankful I don't have any of these problems. I don't know why my arrma 8s are so magical but thank you rc God's! . I just bashed my k8s the other day and after sending it and landing every jump because it doesn't even need air correction 8 times out of 10 I finished bash with zero damage.

I did have bulkhead screws pull out though I didn't even notice until after the bash @KnowAir you know what size screws kt uses?

Pretty sure they're 5x25... Stock is 5x16.

They go right through the gearbox, stick out maybe a millimeter or two..

 

[RC-Dude]

Can't even drive out the scew pin of the other outdrive. Total waste of money those Overkill M2C outdrives. Actually took the outdrive to a KTM motorcycle shop to see if they have some chain tool. Nope, they also tried in their workshop to remove the pin. I even heated the hardened outdrives - not much to loose anyway- no not working. 80 EUR the pair.

 

[KnowAir]

Can't even drive out the scew pin of the other outdrive. Total waste of money those Overkill M2C outdrives. Actually took the outdrive to a KTM motorcycle shop to see if they have some chain tool. Nope, they also tried in their workshop to remove the pin. I even heated the hardened outdrives - not much to loose anyway- no not working. 80 EUR the pair.

Sorry to hear. You're talking about driving the pin out of the dogbone itself right? Weird that they're giving such a hard time since alot of racing brands sell replacement pins for the dogbones..
I've always wondered how well the replacement pins stay put after since it is a pressed fit. I would suspect that eventually the dogbone won't hold the pin after multiple replacements..but then, hearing how difficult they are to get them out, IDK.

 

[RC-Dude]

Sorry to hear. You're talking about driving the pin out of the dogbone itself right?

Got M2C replacement pins but noch chance of hammering out the old ones. Motorcycle chain tool coming today. Will see if I get lucky with that. Have a 700 kilogramm press here but keeping the dogbone in position while pressing is impossible.

 

[RC-Dude]

Overkill M2C Outdrives: The pin actually breaks when applying force with the motorcycle pin removal tool. See the small part broken off. Pin will not move. Pin punch was 4mm. Ground it down to fit.

Then filed the broken pin flat to try again. Nothing working.

Pin does not move a single millimetre.

 

[Moirae]

Time to get some gpm driveshafts!! much cheaper and the ones on my xrt have done so well I bought spares for the kraton 8s too.

 

[RCbuzz]

Time to get some gpm driveshafts!! much cheaper and the ones on my xrt have done so well I bought spares for the kraton 8s too.

GPM, they have held up? Better than stock? That is good to know.