Wow, thanks! I'm still leaning towards O8S, and will give it some time to see if it comes to fruit. As pathetic as it sounds, it all comes down to cost.. at $399, the O8S is almost unbeatable. However, I have no doubts that the XRT would be kickass for what I do. Possibly even better, not sure. I truly appreciate your generosity bro!! I'll let ya know when I know what the hell I'm doing!
Wow, thanks! I'm still leaning towards O8S, and will give it some time to see if it comes to fruit. As pathetic as it sounds, it all comes down to cost.. at $399, the O8S is almost unbeatable. However, I have no doubts that the XRT would be kickass for what I do. Possibly even better, not sure. I truly appreciate your generosity bro!! I'll let ya know when I know what the hell I'm doing!
I know right?! Funniest part is I have a v2 Firma 160/1100 Spektrum combo on it's way to me via @GNT1I'm also willing to give him brand new xrt tires for cost of shipping! Man it seems like a no brainer for you to do it! especially when you know it will be better for your use case. Hell, I have the cheapo spektrum rx/tx if you need it too. I got too much poop and not enough space and I feel like I'm becoming a hoarder. It just feels weird tossing poop in the trash that's brand new even though I know I will never use it.
All you would need is esc/motor and a cheap motor mount.
Though I guess price wise that still puts you close to RTR but at least it will be much better electronics if you go that route.
I did try searching before I asked, didn't find any posts about the pins falling out. Hopefully it's an isolated incident. As to breaking the pins, that sucks. I know M2C has made the cvd shaft diameter larger which is great, sounds like the cups and pins need to be enlarged as well perhaps? Another reason for me to stick with stockish components. Big motor, batteries, and belted or beadlocks just compounds the problems I suppose. I was blown away by the weight difference between an O8S and Xmaxx.. holy crap!! It's really surprising how well the Arrma 8s hold up considering the weight. I really like both TBH. I've suggested to my brother that he submit a warranty claim for the cvd, worth a shot I suppose. You can bet we'll be keeping an eye on those pins going forward.. I see sleeves for sale for the TRX 8s outdrives, haven't found any Arrma 8s yet. I'll have to check the OD of the O8s outdrives, maybe they're the same?Never heard of pins just falling outBeen breaking a lot though..
I think limiting the arm/shock travel so that the CVD’s don’t bind up when taking off and landing big jumps. I send my stuff pretty high and hard and I feel like I’m finding the weak spots that some aren’t by just minimal bashing. The screws going to the bell crank and steering/knuckle from steering link break easily. Currently what’s pissing me off
I have experienced that with the Kaiju. The suspension travels too far up and/or down, causing the cvd shafts to hit the outdrive cups. Telltale sign is "ring" marks on the cvd shaft where the shafts are making contact with the cups..I had issues with pins falling out of those cvds too..I made some aluminum sleeves for the outdrives, then fitted Mojo lower rear arms all the way around on the Kaiju. Been a tank since.I think limiting the arm/shock travel so that the CVD’s don’t bind up when taking off and landing big jumps. I send my stuff pretty high and hard and I feel like I’m finding the weak spots that some aren’t by just minimal bashing. The screws going to the bell crank and steering/knuckle from steering link break easily. Currently what’s pissing me off
Broke one of the Vitavon pins.
Not sure of the diameter and length of the pins Vitavon uses, but I'd check local hobby shops for Mugen pins. Turns out that Mugen sells replacements that are almost identical to stock Arrma ones. A local guy that was making custom shafts for us was using them. Won't lie though. Removing and replacing them is a b!tch, but it can save a ton of money.Broke one of the Vitavon pins.
Wish I could buy these locally. Anyone know if a hardware store would carry a makeshift version? Tried searching for "dowel pins".
Thanks. They're a bit larger than stock. 4mmx19mm. Luckily the Vitavon drive shafts have a set screw that allows pins to be easily removed. I will check local HS for Mugen!
Go to harbor freight and buy a drill bit index. Find the number bit that has matching diameter and cut it down. Or order a bunch of blanks and cut a ton of pins. At least the vitavon is easy to replace pins on. It just has a set screw at the end of the dog bone right?Broke one of the Vitavon pins.
Wish I could buy these locally. Anyone know if a hardware store would carry a makeshift version? Tried searching for "dowel pins".
Great suggestions! Thanks! Yes, set screw at the end.
Just Google 4mm rc driveshaft pins. Tons of leads, ie: https://rovanrc.com/product/RV151017/
What really sucks after just a bit of searching, is that there are tons of options for 3.5mm pins. The 8s Outcast uses them in there hexes. 4mm are just much more limiting, but still accessible. Good luck in the search.
This has to be the problem. I just don't know what else I can do to fix it. If there's no binding through full range of shock movement, what else could it be?' I'm careful not to land at full throttle.Fix your droop and our limit shocks! Haven't had it happen since.
Yeah, I threw droop screws into my K8 first thing. Using the shocks to limit down travel is a fatal flaw I think for the Arrma 8s line. I don't understand why Arrma didn't install them from factory? I mean, the holes are there? Silly. I put 2 each 3mm x 10mm SHCS in each arm. Then saw KT install 5x25mm screws into the gearboxes through the chassis. I did the same, you have to drill out the front and rearmost holes to accept the 25mm screws. This shold really help prevent the screws from pulling out of the gearboxes. I know some have mentioned not wanting to install droop screws for fear of ripping the gearbox off the chassis.Fix your droop and our limit shocks! Haven't had it happen since.
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