Kraton Bulletproofed 1/8 Kraton front diff problems

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Snackers

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Arrma RC's
  1. Voltage
I have taken both my Kraton 6S completely apart many times for years without this problem it’s only the front differential, the first run with brand new 43t gears break within 5 minutes. I’ve tried stock and GPM gears and put in new 10t input gear. I have gone through 5 diff gears, tried several different differential brands, changed gearing all over the place, tried different weights of diff oil. Nothing has made any kind of difference and I’m out of ideas. The last thing I could think of was some thing with the gear box is causing it. My 1/8th v3 Kraton is converted to 8s with castle mmx8s esc w/ castle 1520 1650kv motor. The center and rear diffs handle it fine tho. Any thoughts are welcome

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Throwing chit out there…

you’re front and rear gears are all matching set?

Did you add extra shims where shims wasn’t need using gpm?

ive used shims on stock diff cups but when I used the red arrma diffs or hot racing I didn’t have to use as many shims.

is you’re bulkhead plastic? May be warped

I suggest moving to hot racing bulkhead
Go to 5:00 mark she had to use a lathe machine to shave gpm diff cup down
 
Ive just taken my front diff apart as it was making a noise and ive got the same where the main diff gear teeth have been chewed but this is the first time and coincidently it happened after a few front end hits on a skate park😬😜💪😂
 
I have taken both my Kraton 6S completely apart many times for years without this problem it’s only the front differential, the first run with brand new 43t gears break within 5 minutes. I’ve tried stock and GPM gears and put in new 10t input gear. I have gone through 5 diff gears, tried several different differential brands, changed gearing all over the place, tried different weights of diff oil. Nothing has made any kind of difference and I’m out of ideas. The last thing I could think of was some thing with the gear box is causing it. My 1/8th v3 Kraton is converted to 8s with castle mmx8s esc w/ castle 1520 1650kv motor. The center and rear diffs handle it fine tho. Any thoughts are welcome

View attachment 164687

View attachment 164688
All that and not once did you mention shims 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Try ordering a new diff case and housing from Jenny’s and swap it out. I think it’s like $50.. use code “JRC” for 5% if you didn’t know already.

I went through three diff cases before I found one that allowed the gears to spin smoothly and freely.

Also oddly enough, when I put the front diff cover from a different case on it didn’t let the gear spin at all once it was tightened down. Swapped it and everything worked perfectly.
 
I use Mugen shims, all 3 diffs have brand new internal gears. I believe I figured out the problem, I was turning it by hand slowly with my finger lightly touching it to feel if it’s catching or rubbing somewhere in the gear case. And sure enough part of the differential was rubbing on something in the gearcase, it was incredibly subtle but I guess with 8s power and torque subtle can turn into a problem real fast. Thanks for the input guys. New gear box it is
Try ordering a new diff case and housing from Jenny’s and swap it out. I think it’s like $50.. use code “JRC” for 5% if you didn’t know already.

I went through three diff cases before I found one that allowed the gears to spin smoothly and freely.

Also oddly enough, when I put the front diff cover from a different case on it didn’t let the gear spin at all once it was tightened down. Swapped it and everything worked perfectly.
The front gearbox and diff only recently started breaking for me. I use hot racing gear boxes with either arrma or hot racing differentials. I use the hot racing limitless differential for the center. That is a beast, I never have problems with that one
 
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