Typhon Can I switch ESC?

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I have a 6s Typhon that had a tragic death...lol I have a brand new 3,s Typhon motors are same ... Can I take 6s ESC an put it in 3s

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That's easy ,but on reading other posts I dunno maybe I'm missing something but motor in both 6 an 3s are the same 1700/2050kv. I take that back I was looking at my other 6s casualty 3s has a 2000/3200 kv

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Ouch were did the right front side go?
Your truck will have a noticeable power gain when you install that 6s esc. Even when using a 4s or 3s lipo.
For a while I was running a 2400kv blx in my kraton4s. I just switched to a HW 2600kv . I had to go down from 13th pinion to 11th pinion gear. No heat issues at all with this set up. 4s or 3s a beast.

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Some don't believe this and disagree, but if you take a larger higher 150 amped 6s ESC to replace a 3s 100 amp one for example, you will gain more ESC Amp overhead. In theory you will run more efficiently. While running lower than 6s packs. 3s or 4s.
>>>But I wouldn't expect the 4x4 Drivetrain to last long with a 4s pack however. Stay with 3s . Even a 120 amped ESC would be good with a 3s pack.
 
Some don't believe this and disagree, but if you take a larger higher 150 amped 6s ESC to replace a 3s 100 amp one for example, you will gain more ESC Amp overhead. In theory you will run more efficiently. While running lower than 6s packs. 3s or 4s.
>>>But I wouldn't expect the 4x4 Drivetrain to last long with a 4s pack however. Stay with 3s . Even a 120 amped ESC would be good with a 3s pack.
Have 120A 3-4s Spektrum ESC in my granite, and stock 3200kv (3660 size?) motor, 17t pinion, and no heat issues. Yes it gets hot after 2 packs (3S) back-to-back, but not dangerous hot. 👍 Have replaced fan on esc for a better one, and I do have cooling fans on motor. Have tried 4s once, and that was just crazy 🤣
 
Some don't believe this and disagree, but if you take a larger higher 150 amped 6s ESC to replace a 3s 100 amp one for example, you will gain more ESC Amp overhead. In theory you will run more efficiently. While running lower than 6s packs. 3s or 4s.
>>>But I wouldn't expect the 4x4 Drivetrain to last long with a 4s pack however. Stay with 3s . Even a 120 amped ESC would be good with a 3s pack.
I have HR spiral cut gears in aluminum case. I have the heavy duty axles from arrma with 6s ends. This drivetrain is bullet proof with a good slipper clutch setting. 2 Years with this set up. And with the v2 arms,shocks, shock towers, all else is from the v1. I guess my kraton 4s is a v1.6²/³ and not a v2.
Have 120A 3-4s Spektrum ESC in my granite, and stock 3200kv (3660 size?) motor, 17t pinion, and no heat issues. Yes it gets hot after 2 packs (3S) back-to-back, but not dangerous hot. 👍 Have replaced fan on esc for a better one, and I do have cooling fans on motor. Have tried 4s once, and that was just crazy 🤣
I tried 6s in my rc with the old 2400kv and a max 8 it was way,way too much power but fun as he'll. 50mph and the front end was lifting like nothing.
 
Must of took a lot to bend that chassis. You run it over with your 18 wheeler?
No I was just about st top speed st dusk an clipped a curb...it kept going but left the front end where it sat..almost like a surgical knife cut it...lol
I have HR spiral cut gears in aluminum case. I have the heavy duty axles from arrma with 6s ends. This drivetrain is bullet proof with a good slipper clutch setting. 2 Years with this set up. And with the v2 arms,shocks, shock towers, all else is from the v1. I guess my kraton 4s is a v1.6²/³ and not a v2.

I tried 6s in my rc with the old 2400kv and a max 8 it was way,way too much power but fun as he'll. 50mph and the front end was lifting like nothing.
I have some WL toy ones that are like that,crazy power just from 2s to 3
 
It is all too easy to Overpower most any RC platform. Whether by accident or intentionally.
Becomes very hard to drive, let alone the durability issues that result.
You are not using the full power band effectively , if you can barely use 1/4 of the throttle trigger to drive, while driving on the Edge all the time.:unsure:
 
I made my own adapter plate out 3 mm aluminum from Amazon. I think a paid $15 for 12"×6" plate.View attachment 309156View attachment 309158

Street signs are 3mm aluminum as well 🤫
I've got a bunch of them LEGALLY from buddies who work for the city and railway. Great material for stuff like that.
It is all too easy to Overpower most any RC platform. Whether by accident or intentionally.
Becomes very hard to drive, let alone the durability issues that result.
You are not using the full power band effectively , if you can barely use 1/4 of the throttle trigger to drive, while driving on the Edge all the time.:unsure:

Where's the fun in that?

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It is all too easy to Overpower most any RC platform. Whether by accident or intentionally.
Becomes very hard to drive, let alone the durability issues that result.
You are not using the full power band effectively , if you can barely use 1/4 of the throttle trigger to drive, while driving on the Edge all the time.:unsure:
And still i overpower all my rigs. I have 4985 motors in my Mojaves. Which is ridiculous honestly on 6S. But ran on 3S or 4S and a 22t pinion they have just the right amount of power and speed for me and a lot of overhead, so it's a lot harder to overheat the motors. Likewise i run the 1415-2400kv and 1512-2650kv in my slashes. Pack after pack on 3S without problems.
 
4985 on 3s and 4s , looks like an improper mismatched setup??? May run cooler., But you still have too much motor there. The added weight and mass alone.(y) Can't be all that efficient. That's like putting a V8 392 Hemi in there, but only running 4 cylinders, to slow it down some.
Am I wrong?:unsure:
 
4985 on 3s and 4s , looks like an improper mismatched setup??? May run cooler., But you still have too much motor there. The added weight and mass alone.(y) Can't be all that efficient. That's like putting a V8 392 Hemi in there, but only running 4 cylinders, to slow it down some.
Am I wrong?:unsure:
Since i don't run two 3S batteries in series anymore, but only one 3S or 4S, there isn't much added weight left. Before i had to mount stiffer springs to handle the added weight of the heavier system and 1200 grams of batteries. Now i am back to running stock springs.
I cut 600 grams just by removing one battery.
4S runs more efficient and cooler than 3S though.
I just think the stock BLX setup is underpowered for a massive rig like the Mojave. Castle Creations recommendation for the Mojave is the MMX8S, based on total running weight. Not even the MMX6S, although that one is more powerful than the BLX185.
 
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Street signs are 3mm aluminum as well 🤫
I've got a bunch of them LEGALLY from buddies who work for the city and railway. Great material for stuff like that.


Where's the fun in that?

View attachment 313194
I never thought it much fun putting a V8 Hemi into a Ford Pinto.
Yet many have done that. Perhaps fun for them is all that matters.
Since i don't run two 3S batteries in series anymore, but only one 3S or 4S, there isn't much added weight left. Before i had to mount stiffer springs to handle the added weight of the heavier system and 1200 grams of batteries. Now i am back to running stock springs.
I cut 600 grams just by removing one battery.
4S runs more efficient and cooler than 3S though.
I just think the stock BLX setup is underpowered for a massive rig like the Mojave. Castle Creations recommendation for the Mojave is the MMX8S, based on total running weight. Not even the MMX6S, although that one is more powerful than the BLX185.
Lets just say I like my Mojave "Underpowered" with the stocker motor, running 6s packs. I always felt any off road rig that can run 50 mph on dirt is fast enough for me.
A massive heavy rig is the Fireteam. Easily 2-3 pounds heavier than a Mojo.
 
I never thought it much fun putting a V8 Hemi into a Ford Pinto.
Yet many have done that. Perhaps fun for them is all that matters.

Lets just say I like my Mojave "Underpowered" with the stocker motor, running 6s packs. I always felt any off road rig that can run 50 mph on dirt is fast enough for me.
A massive heavy rig is the Fireteam. Easily 2-3 pounds heavier than a Mojo.

Thats the thing about this hobby @SrC. We all do it our own way.
 
I merely direct those that want a different perspective. And are starting out. Not sure how to upgrade or have durability issues that end up being user error. Usually the guys with only that one rig before them on the bench. After having 19 models in all over the years, I learned to be more careful about upgrades. They are endless. Lean and mean is the best way to setup these RC's. At least for me. Like you stated.
For the expert level Big Air guys obviously they want all the best alloys. Why? Because they can.
Not everyone RC's this way.
Although watching the many RC Influencers out there one would have you think by the way they drive, is How this hobby is done. Many buy a model just because they saw it in video flying 30 ft in the air gracefully landing every time. Yet they also break as well. Its called video editing.
Just not reality for 99% of us. Driver error gets you most of the time. I say work on Driver skills first before Rushing to that next Upgrade part right away after it broke. I think some Alloy upgrades are just a band-aid approach for many unskilled drivers. Is what it is.
Just can't always blame the plastic parts, like many do.
There will always be those few alloy upgrades that are good to have.(y)(y)
A $130.00 M2C Chassis not being one of them in every case. Most of my upgrades are usually M2C, when I do. Drive cups, ABCD blocks, Driveshafts, Chassis braces, are worthy considerations.
But the beauty of this hobby are all the schoices one can choose from. I agree.
Trial and error dictates what's best for you and your wallet.
But simply following the next guy because his rig looks nicer with all the alloy Upgrades is not always the best choice for most of us. I rather have several rigs, than put all my $apples$ into one basket. (one model)
 
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I merely direct those that want a different perspective. And are starting out. Not sure how to upgrade or have durability issues that end up being user error. Usually the guys with only that one rig before them on the bench. After having 19 models in all over the years, I learned to be more careful about upgrades. They are endless. Lean and mean is the best way to setup these RC's. At least for me. Like you stated.
For the expert level Big Air guys obviously they want all the best alloys. Why? Because they can.
Not everyone RC's this way.
Although watching the many RC Influencers out there one would have you think by the way they drive, is How this hobby is done. Many buy a model just because they saw it in video flying 30 ft in the air gracefully landing every time. Yet they also break as well. Its called video editing.
Just not reality for 99% of us. Driver error gets you most of the time. I say work on Driver skills first before Rushing to that next Upgrade part right away after it broke. I think some Alloy upgrades are just a band-aid approach for many unskilled drivers. Is what it is.
Just can't always blame the plastic parts, like many do.
There will always be those few alloy upgrades that are good to have.(y)(y)
A $130.00 M2C Chassis not being one of them in every case. Most of my upgrades are usually M2C, when I do. Drive cups, ABCD blocks, Driveshafts, Chassis braces, are worthy considerations.
But the beauty of this hobby are all the schoices one can choose from. I agree.
Trial and error dictates what's best for you and your wallet.
But simply following the next guy because his rig looks nicer with all the alloy Upgrades is not always the best choice for most of us. I rather have several rigs, than put all my $apples$ into one basket. (one model)

You are 100% man.
I send mine what I consider to be big but after all the years I've been in this hobby I know exactly what to expect from it. Its a choice I make to play that way.. Balls to the wall entertains me. I actually break VERY little but I'm not ignorant about it. I drive them hard and fly them high (for me) but I don't land bad, I don't tumble them and I don't hit crap.
I actually can't even remember the last time I broke something. My mini b is it I think last year and i totaled that thing. 70+mph and it took flight like 15ft up and tumbled.. wasn't good. Was expecting it though. Kind of comes with the territory of pushing something like that.
Your absolutely right about the youtube vids. You can't send them like THAT and not break things. Its a false reality that absolutely gives newer guys a flase sense of what these things can do reliably.
 
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4985 on 3s and 4s , looks like an improper mismatched setup??? May run cooler., But you still have too much motor there. The added weight and mass alone.(y) Can't be all that efficient. That's like putting a V8 392 Hemi in there, but only running 4 cylinders, to slow it down some.
Am I wrong?:unsure:
Wait, what? You think a 4985 is too much motor for a Mojave? I think it’s the perfect sweet spot. And I agree with you, I don’t try to over-power my rigs. Either 4s or 6s with a Max 6 and a 4985 1650kv combo in a Mojave is pretty hard to beat, IMO.
 
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