Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
What's the best way to get a good clean on the Fireteam 6S after getting it really muddy/dirty?
OK to wash off with water and blow dry with compressed air?
Water is a controversial topic with RCs.What's the best way to get a good clean on the Fireteam 6S after getting it really muddy/dirty?
OK to wash off with water and blow dry with compressed air?
Ahhhh, excellent. Thank you!
So if I have this summed up correctly this is the process most of you all use to clean your cars.
1. Use simple green foam, spray the car down while not being too aggressive on electronics. Water can be used, but seems like simple green foam is preferred? Why is the simple green foam better than water? It's still got liquid in it. Is it less intrusive?
2. Use a paint brush or detailing brush to scrub down car and hard-to-reach areas to help break up any debris.
2. Let simple green foam sit for 10 minutes
3. Clean off using compressed air, power duster, leafblower
4. Once clean and dry, cover the car with a coating of silicone spray and let dry (this helps the next clean to be easier, so dirt/grime doesn't stick). If the silicone spray I am using is dielectric, then OK to get on electronics for protection as well? Will the silicone spray help disperse any remaining moisture left from cleaning as well?
Any steps in there that I am missing or that could be improved upon?
I've noticed some minor rust on some items, screws, etc.. What's the best way to remove this and prevent it? I know WD-40 isn't recommended due to how it reacts with plastics. Is there something I can use to clean them and then protect them for future rusting?
Boeshield? TriFlow? Silicone Spray?
When you spray and coat the car with silicone do you recommend dry or wet silicone spray?Water is a controversial topic with RCs.
I use water and would recommend water to clean it well. However, I am OCD, have many steps to get the water out, and have no rust. There is a lot of protection and steps I do.
If you use water, please watch some good videos on the best process.
I understand it is filthy. In most cases, I recommend no water unless you know the process and risk.
Here is an excellent place to start if using water. My process, but I take it a bit further when it comes to drying and silicone the parts...basics of what I do.
To be honest with you, until you posted those terms or wet and dry, I never read that before. I use COWs, so I'm not sure how they are categorized.When you spray and coat the car with silicone do you recommend dry or wet silicone spray?
This is the SC1?To be honest with you, until you posted those terms or wet and dry, I never read that before. I use COWs, so I'm not sure how they are categorized.
If you remember, I do two silicones. SC1 and Cows Moo-Slick. If I had a tight budget and did only one, SC1 would be my pick since it makes the plastic look good. But it's not really ideal or the same as Moo-Slick.
When it is done and dry. I take Cows and hit all moving parts, hinge pins, suspension arm joints, piston shocks if visible, wheel bearings, diffs in the outdrive area etc. So, it does not take a lot of Moo-Slick to do so. The can last a long time.
When I am ready to put it on the shelf. I take it outside and spray the tires, all the plastic but not the electrics with SC1 that I will call wet, but it dries with a nice shine. I use more SC1 since I spray it heavily. I also spray it heavily on the rig the day before or 30 minutes before I bash it. Its purpose is to help keep dirt from sticking too hard, which makes it easier for me to clean since the rig has a layer of SC1 silicon protection. SC1 I buy a lot over the other!
I am done and shelf it.
Why use SC1 and Moo-Slick? Won't Moo-slick do it all? Is it just because SC1 is cheaper?To be honest with you, until you posted those terms or wet and dry, I never read that before. I use COWs, so I'm not sure how they are categorized.
If you remember, I do two silicones. SC1 and Cows Moo-Slick. If I had a tight budget and did only one, SC1 would be my pick since it makes the plastic look good. But it's not really ideal or the same as Moo-Slick.
When it is done and dry. I take Cows and hit all moving parts, hinge pins, suspension arm joints, piston shocks if visible, wheel bearings, diffs in the outdrive area etc. So, it does not take a lot of Moo-Slick to do so. The can last a long time.
When I am ready to put it on the shelf. I take it outside and spray the tires, all the plastic but not the electrics with SC1 that I will call wet, but it dries with a nice shine. I use more SC1 since I spray it heavily. I also spray it heavily on the rig the day before or 30 minutes before I bash it. Its purpose is to help keep dirt from sticking too hard, which makes it easier for me to clean since the rig has a layer of SC1 silicon protection. SC1 I buy a lot over the other!
I am done and shelf it.
No... SC1 is labeled as a high gloss coating to prevent building mud, etc. Not exactly as a lubricant like Moo-Slick for bearings and joints.Why use SC1 and Moo-Slick? Won't Moo-slick do it all? Is it just because SC1 is cheaper?
Register and gain access to Discussions, Reviews, Tech Tips, How to Articles, and much more - on the largest Arrma RC community for RC enthusiasts that covers all aspects of the Arrma-RC brand!
Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!