Fireteam Cleaning the Fireteam 6S

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Loyal316 said:
What's the best way to get a good clean on the Fireteam 6S after getting it really muddy/dirty?

OK to wash off with water and blow dry with compressed air?
Click to expand...

Wash & Dry.
Don't let it sit overnight wet.. You should be good.
 
Loyal316 said:
What's the best way to get a good clean on the Fireteam 6S after getting it really muddy/dirty?

OK to wash off with water and blow dry with compressed air?
Click to expand...
Water is a controversial topic with RCs.

I use water and would recommend water to clean it well. However, I am OCD, have many steps to get the water out, and have no rust. There is a lot of protection and steps I do.

If you use water, please watch some good videos on the best process.

I understand it is filthy. In most cases, I recommend no water unless you know the process and risk.

Here is an excellent place to start if using water. My process, but I take it a bit further when it comes to drying and silicone the parts...basics of what I do.
 
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I pre rinse with the hose, douse in simple green, brush and rinse with the hose again. Low pressure setting on the hose nothing crazy. Enough to rinse it well, hit it with my high powered duster(not compressed air). Then after getting the majority of the water off I put it in the house under a blower fan to dry it the remainder of the way.
 
How is this stuff? Is this a good option for silicone spray? I read something saying be careful with the aerosols as they can have petroleum in then which is not good for plastics.

71SGBuGkFXL._AC_SX679_.jpg
 
Ahhhh, excellent. Thank you!

So if I have this summed up correctly this is the process most of you all use to clean your cars.

1. Use simple green foam, spray the car down while not being too aggressive on electronics. Water can be used, but seems like simple green foam is preferred? Why is the simple green foam better than water? It's still got liquid in it. Is it less intrusive?
2. Use a paint brush or detailing brush to scrub down car and hard-to-reach areas to help break up any debris.
2. Let simple green foam sit for 10 minutes
3. Clean off using compressed air, power duster, leafblower
4. Once clean and dry, cover the car with a coating of silicone spray and let dry (this helps the next clean to be easier, so dirt/grime doesn't stick). If the silicone spray I am using is dielectric, then OK to get on electronics for protection as well? Will the silicone spray help disperse any remaining moisture left from cleaning as well?

Any steps in there that I am missing or that could be improved upon?
 
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I've noticed some minor rust on some items, screws, etc.. What's the best way to remove this and prevent it? I know WD-40 isn't recommended due to how it reacts with plastics. Is there something I can use to clean them and then protect them for future rusting?

Boeshield? TriFlow? Silicone Spray?
 
Loyal316 said:
Ahhhh, excellent. Thank you!

So if I have this summed up correctly this is the process most of you all use to clean your cars.

1. Use simple green foam, spray the car down while not being too aggressive on electronics. Water can be used, but seems like simple green foam is preferred? Why is the simple green foam better than water? It's still got liquid in it. Is it less intrusive?
2. Use a paint brush or detailing brush to scrub down car and hard-to-reach areas to help break up any debris.
2. Let simple green foam sit for 10 minutes
3. Clean off using compressed air, power duster, leafblower
4. Once clean and dry, cover the car with a coating of silicone spray and let dry (this helps the next clean to be easier, so dirt/grime doesn't stick). If the silicone spray I am using is dielectric, then OK to get on electronics for protection as well? Will the silicone spray help disperse any remaining moisture left from cleaning as well?

Any steps in there that I am missing or that could be improved upon?
Click to expand...

Loyal316 said:
I've noticed some minor rust on some items, screws, etc.. What's the best way to remove this and prevent it? I know WD-40 isn't recommended due to how it reacts with plastics. Is there something I can use to clean them and then protect them for future rusting?

Boeshield? TriFlow? Silicone Spray?
Click to expand...

Simple Green liquid spray is fine. I would not recommend full concentration. Make sure it is a mix/diluted. SG can eat the sticky pads that hold ESC, servos, and other items at full strength.

I have both I pick and choose I see no advantage between the two. I avoid spraying SG into or on electronics; I just lay a rag over it or shield it with my hand.

I have not read silicon spray will dispense water. It's not a worry of mine; I make sure it is dry....if it is not, I make sure the silicon spray is in all the right places. Maybe it does not go on record to say so. There's no rust for me so far.

Get a wire brush and try to clean the rust off, and then polish it up with some WD40,. Then afterward, hit it last to sit with the silicone spray.
 
Ok, I've settled on silicone spray. Whats the difference between the dry silicone spray such as Moo-Slick and the Superlube Silicone Spray? Is there an advantage of one or the other?
 
parcou said:
Water is a controversial topic with RCs.

I use water and would recommend water to clean it well. However, I am OCD, have many steps to get the water out, and have no rust. There is a lot of protection and steps I do.

If you use water, please watch some good videos on the best process.

I understand it is filthy. In most cases, I recommend no water unless you know the process and risk.

Here is an excellent place to start if using water. My process, but I take it a bit further when it comes to drying and silicone the parts...basics of what I do.
Click to expand...
When you spray and coat the car with silicone do you recommend dry or wet silicone spray?
 
Loyal316 said:
When you spray and coat the car with silicone do you recommend dry or wet silicone spray?
Click to expand...
To be honest with you, until you posted those terms or wet and dry, I never read that before. I use COWs, so I'm not sure how they are categorized.

If you remember, I do two silicones. SC1 and Cows Moo-Slick. If I had a tight budget and did only one, SC1 would be my pick since it makes the plastic look good. But it's not really ideal or the same as Moo-Slick.

When it is done and dry. I take Cows and hit all moving parts, hinge pins, suspension arm joints, piston shocks if visible, wheel bearings, diffs in the outdrive area etc. So, it does not take a lot of Moo-Slick to do so. The can last a long time.

When I am ready to put it on the shelf. I take it outside and spray the tires, all the plastic but not the electrics with SC1 that I will call wet, but it dries with a nice shine. I use more SC1 since I spray it heavily. I also spray it heavily on the rig the day before or 30 minutes before I bash it. Its purpose is to help keep dirt from sticking too hard, which makes it easier for me to clean since the rig has a layer of SC1 silicon protection. SC1 I buy a lot over the other!

I am done and shelf it.
 
parcou said:
To be honest with you, until you posted those terms or wet and dry, I never read that before. I use COWs, so I'm not sure how they are categorized.

If you remember, I do two silicones. SC1 and Cows Moo-Slick. If I had a tight budget and did only one, SC1 would be my pick since it makes the plastic look good. But it's not really ideal or the same as Moo-Slick.

When it is done and dry. I take Cows and hit all moving parts, hinge pins, suspension arm joints, piston shocks if visible, wheel bearings, diffs in the outdrive area etc. So, it does not take a lot of Moo-Slick to do so. The can last a long time.

When I am ready to put it on the shelf. I take it outside and spray the tires, all the plastic but not the electrics with SC1 that I will call wet, but it dries with a nice shine. I use more SC1 since I spray it heavily. I also spray it heavily on the rig the day before or 30 minutes before I bash it. Its purpose is to help keep dirt from sticking too hard, which makes it easier for me to clean since the rig has a layer of SC1 silicon protection. SC1 I buy a lot over the other!

I am done and shelf it.
Click to expand...
This is the SC1?

Maxima 78920 SC1 High Gloss Coating 17.2 FL. OZ. 508 mL - NET WT. 12 OZ. (340g), Single,Black https://a.co/d/gPnGXHv
 
parcou said:
To be honest with you, until you posted those terms or wet and dry, I never read that before. I use COWs, so I'm not sure how they are categorized.

If you remember, I do two silicones. SC1 and Cows Moo-Slick. If I had a tight budget and did only one, SC1 would be my pick since it makes the plastic look good. But it's not really ideal or the same as Moo-Slick.

When it is done and dry. I take Cows and hit all moving parts, hinge pins, suspension arm joints, piston shocks if visible, wheel bearings, diffs in the outdrive area etc. So, it does not take a lot of Moo-Slick to do so. The can last a long time.

When I am ready to put it on the shelf. I take it outside and spray the tires, all the plastic but not the electrics with SC1 that I will call wet, but it dries with a nice shine. I use more SC1 since I spray it heavily. I also spray it heavily on the rig the day before or 30 minutes before I bash it. Its purpose is to help keep dirt from sticking too hard, which makes it easier for me to clean since the rig has a layer of SC1 silicon protection. SC1 I buy a lot over the other!

I am done and shelf it.
Click to expand...
Why use SC1 and Moo-Slick? Won't Moo-slick do it all? Is it just because SC1 is cheaper?
 
I have read 303 is also good stuff (y)
 
Loyal316 said:
Why use SC1 and Moo-Slick? Won't Moo-slick do it all? Is it just because SC1 is cheaper?
Click to expand...
No... SC1 is labeled as a high gloss coating to prevent building mud, etc. Not exactly as a lubricant like Moo-Slick for bearings and joints.

Hey I could be wrong I do not see others or YT'ers use SC1 as silicone lubricant. If you find out otherwise in your research let me know.
 
I make sure my motors have a coating of grease over any exposed bearings front and back. I take all fans off, then rinse with the hose. Garden sprayer. Then use car wash soap and scrub the RC with a smaller paintbrush after taking wheels off. Rinse, careful to not flood the motor, then spray (while still wet) with Turtle Wax, wax as you dry in the green bottle, or plain old Armor All protectant. I dry with compressed air and rag dry the rest. While scrubbing, if I come across any oozing grease from bearings, I'll poor ome dish detergent on s toothbrush and scrub that off, then just proceed with car wash soap. If any grease is left after drying, I'll spray with silicone spray and compressed air at he same time. I'll do that to the pillow balls too. I scrub tires with purple power degreaser. It gets brown oxidation off, just like for 1:1 tires. Then dry and spray the Wax as you dry on them. A super light silicone. Dirt won't stick. Then dab lubricating oil from Walmart on all the exposed steel with a small artist's paintbrush. Turnbuckles, screws etc....including the grub/set screws in the hex hubs. They rust. I've been meaning to get a bottle of 303 for the tires, but haven't yet.
 

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