Vorteks Clicking in rear diff

[SrC]

Boost =Budget.
There are key differences that truly matter. Not noticable unless you have both in front of you. Out the box maybe the right price. Until you want to upgrade or repair .
Who doesn't like to pay cheap? I get it.
Just that Cheap always buys twice. Or just keep sinking $apples$ into that one rig to make it something it is not and never was meant to be. For young kids is an inexpensive stepping stone no doubt. But spending $$ did not end with your intial purchase. There are more durable platforms out there. And 4wD RC's is where its at right now. They can be driven in the worst conditions, unlike 2WD rigs.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Boost =Budget.
There are key differences that truly matter. Not noticable unless you have both in front of you. Out the box maybe the right price. Until you want to upgrade or repair .
Who doesn't like to pay cheap? I get it.
Just that Cheap always buys twice. Or just keep sinking $apples$ into that one rig to make it something it is not and never was meant to be. For young kids is an inexpensive stepping stone no doubt. But spending $$ did not end with your intial purchase. There are more durable platforms out there. And 4wD RC's is where its at right now.

Sure. I had an expensive one 20 years ago. I was fixing that more than driving it. These are better than that even with the issues I've had.

I've realized. No matter what. Nothing with this hobby is cheap...

Don't disagree with the upgrading part. It's not worth it with these. I'm happy for now.

 

[SrC]

Hey as long as your RC fun is not fighting with your wallet is all that matters in the end.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Hey as long as your RC fun is not fighting with your wallet is all that matters in the end.

Having lots of fun. Been driving 1 to 3 batteries a day in them. And mostly full-speed.

Before work and after. I'd say in the last month I've driven these more than any other I've ever owned. Even when racing in a League for a short bit

So. For a few parts to go. Yeah. Going to happen.

Is what it is.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

With the driveshaft out, rotate the input shaft with your fingers back and forth. Compared to the front one if you can. They should be similar. If the rear one moves more means you need to shim out it’s worn or possibly even made a mistake reassembling it? I have been guilty of that once or twice.

I read about this shimming thing. Found what they are and heard they do wonders.

Guy said you need to put them in some way and should stop them from stripping.

Just not sure exactly where to add them.

Guess I'll ask the hobby shop tomorrow

Thanks for brining this up. Always the small things that help the most

 

[Puddlejumpernva]

I read about this shimming thing. Found what they are and heard they do wonders.

Guy said you need to put them in some way and should stop them from stripping.

Just not sure exactly where to add them.

Guess I'll ask the hobby shop tomorrow

Thanks for brining this up. Always the small things that help the most

Shims will set the mesh between the input and ring gear. To tighten it up (less lash), add a shim on the ring gear side. To loosen, remove from the ring gear and put it on the input gear side (as shown). When I went CNC on my Big Rock, it was so tight I had to use four on the input gear side.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Shims will set the mesh between the input and ring gear. To tighten it up (less lash), add a shim on the ring gear side. To loosen, remove from the ring gear and put it on the input gear side (as shown). When I went CNC on my Big Rock, it was so tight I had to use four on the input gear side.

View attachment 292999

View attachment 293000

Behind the bearings. Ahhh. Thanks. It was the only place I could of thought of. But still seems odd.

Not sure mine has any. Guess I'll double check next time I take it apart

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Shims will set the mesh between the input and ring gear. To tighten it up (less lash), add a shim on the ring gear side. To loosen, remove from the ring gear and put it on the input gear side (as shown). When I went CNC on my Big Rock, it was so tight I had to use four on the input gear side.

View attachment 292999

View attachment 293000

Thanks. Totally get it now.

Any idea of how many to use? It seems pretty darn tight just switching the washer to the other side like suggested

 

[SrC]

I read about this shimming thing. Found what they are and heard they do wonders.

Guy said you need to put them in some way and should stop them from stripping.

Just not sure exactly where to add them.

Guess I'll ask the hobby shop tomorrow

Thanks for brining this up. Always the small things that help the most

Why the LHS? You are here on the AF. Why have someone else do your hobby for you? Then it isn't much of a hobby . Is it? Learn by doing it yourself. We all started somewhere. Jump in. Take the diffs out in hand to understand it better. Or you will never learn. Shimming is a common and necessary procedure. Or it's always a fail.
More info is here if you search around. And many posts here are already steering you correctly.
My 2 cents.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Why the LHS? You are here on the AF. Why have someone else do your hobby for you? Then it isn't much of a hobby . Is it? Learn by doing it yourself. We all started somewhere. Jump in. Take the diffs out in hand to understand it better. Or you will never learn. Shimming is a common and necessary procedure. Or it's always a fail.
More info is here if you search around. And many posts here are already steering you correctly.
My 2 cents.

No. I do it all. Just not always sure the first time around doing something. Too many boom one way. Too few. Boom another. Lol

I have half my car apart right this moment. It's easy to work on.

It's the details that throw me till I get it down.

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

What could cause clicking? I took it all apart and everything looks fine.

Put it together and still there. You hold one rear tire. And spin the other and there is almost like a catch point every few spins

Makes no sense.

Any ideas

Keep in mind that the screws holding the diff housing together can be a little loose. Not loosy goosy but you don't have to turn them down.

 

[SrC]

No. I do it all. Just not always sure the first time around doing something. Too many boom one way. Too few. Boom another. Lol

I have half my car apart right this moment. It's easy to work on.

It's the details that throw me till I get it down.

+!
You got this then. Just need to see it one time and you got it. Grease the gears after shimming, before you close it up. Any automotive grease is fine. Some prefer White lithium grease on the 4x4 "plastic" gears. Your call. Not much needed. Just some good coverage on all the teeth. Too much just slings off and makes a mess.

 

[jdebo_4]

i'm only here for the basecamp in the profile picture. i love mine....also thought about getting my 4 year old a vorteks later this summer..

 

[Vortex 2wd]

I don't get whats happening with the car now. Fixed everything. Everything was quiet. gear mesh sounds and feels like butter. Oiled all bearings while apart.

But makes terrible noises while driving it

Why I didn't stick with auto mechanics.

Feel like new drive gears don't line up very well. As in not made as well maybe...

Or slightly different size then originals.

Guess I'll double check it all again.

 

[SirCrashALot]

I don't get whats happening with the car now. Fixed everything. Everything was quiet. gear mesh sounds and feels like butter. Oiled all bearings while apart.

But makes terrible noises while driving it

Why I didn't stick with auto mechanics.

Feel like new drive gears don't line up very well. As in not made as well maybe...

Or slightly different size then originals.

Guess I'll double check it all again.

If your drivetrain feels and sounds smooth and quiet without the motor connected, but makes awful noises when driving, you should check the motor bearings. The motor may turn fine when you spin it by hand, but there shouldn't be any play, when you wiggle the motor shaft.
If you feel any clicking, it's time to replace the bearings. If you ignore this sign of wear, you will ruin the motor soon.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

If your drivetrain feels and sounds smooth and quiet without the motor connected, but makes awful noises when driving, you should check the motor bearings. The motor may turn fine when you spin it by hand, but there shouldn't be any play, when you wiggle the motor shaft.
If you feel any clicking, it's time to replace the bearings. If you ignore this sign of wear, you will ruin the motor soon.

Well darn. Guess I didn't pick that cause both motors are going bad. 2 months of hard use. Brushed. And they echo into the rear diff. Guess I'll drive em till they go.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Ok. Newb question. Seems the driving I do can wear out brushes motors in a few weeks to months if Lucky. Are brushless better or would I need to learn to replace bearings often?

 

[SirCrashALot]

Ok. Newb question. Seems the driving I do can wear out brushes motors in a few weeks to months if Lucky. Are brushless better or would I need to learn to replace bearings often?

Well, bearings are cheaper than motors.
This hobby isn't just about driving the rigs.
They require maintenance. Which costs some money. Driving them hard will increase costs for maintenance. Mounting even more powerful brusless motor systems means more speed, more wear and more crash damage.
Learn to do the maintenance yourself and save a lot of money on repairs and, in this case, needlessly damaged motors.
If you need help, use the search function on this forum. Most of the problems you may encounter and their solutions have already been documented.
And there's a lot of collective knowledge on the forum from experienced hobbyists, most of whom are usually willing to help you out, if problems persist.
My advise, take your entire rig apart, clean and check everything and replace what needs replacement. Then build it together again. Take your time so you won't get frustrated.
Apart from driving, maintenance and repairing, tinkering, modifying and upgrading are part of the fun for rc enthousiasts. Find out if it is for you as well. Just try to keep your cars running for now.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Well, bearings are cheaper than motors.
This hobby isn't just about driving the rigs.
They require maintenance. Which costs some money. Driving them hard will increase costs for maintenance. Mounting even more powerful brusless motor systems means more speed, more wear and more crash damage.
Learn to do the maintenance yourself and save a lot of money on repairs and, in this case, needlessly damaged motors.
If you need help, use the search function on this forum. Most of the problems you may encounter and their solutions have already been documented.
And there's a lot of collective knowledge on the forum from experienced hobbyists, most of whom are usually willing to help you out, if problems persist.
My advise, take your entire rig apart, clean and check everything and replace what needs replacement. Then build it together again. Take your time so you won't get frustrated.
Apart from driving, maintenance and repairing, tinkering, modifying and upgrading are part of the fun for rc enthousiasts. Find out if it is for you as well. Just try to keep your cars running for now.

I just did that. Other than motor. I'll wait till it bombs.

Makes more noise... but meh.

Apparently brushed motors make lots of noise as they go bad. Almost sounds like gears going bad.

I'm figuring it out bit by bit. See how the future goes. My time is limited to some degree right now.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Shims will set the mesh between the input and ring gear. To tighten it up (less lash), add a shim on the ring gear side. To loosen, remove from the ring gear and put it on the input gear side (as shown). When I went CNC on my Big Rock, it was so tight I had to use four on the input gear side.

View attachment 292999

View attachment 293000

Thanks for this info. I checked my gears after however much time its been and been bashing ish the whole time and the gears still look brand new