Vorteks Clicking in rear diff

[Vortex 2wd]

What could cause clicking? I took it all apart and everything looks fine.

Put it together and still there. You hold one rear tire. And spin the other and there is almost like a catch point every few spins

Makes no sense.

Any ideas

 

[gotnitro]

What WT did you replace the stock fluid with?

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Well. Funny question. Yet... it had 10k in it. Not a lot from factory. And it did it. I put in 50 wt shock oil for now till I get the bottle of 30k diff oil.

I have 2 of these and the other works fine with 50. Just loose ish. Yet. It's not bad. But I'm no expert

I took it apart cause it was doing this...

I can't put a video from my phone.

But going backwards both tires spin till it sticks... then one reverses direction. Then it unsticks and goes the same way again.

What WT did you replace the stock fluid with?

Replied in other comment . Still figuring this forum out

 

[gotnitro]

Your diffs are open diffs. When you spin one tire in one direction, the other tire will spin in the opposite direction. Thats normal. Without a diff, you would have horse poop turning, traction ETC. When you hold a tire, you are "diffing out" the other tire and you should hear some planet gear clicking. Totally normal.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Hmm. Ok. Thanks. Just it stopped moving and makes loud noises when I try to drive it.

Thought motor and spur gear. But took that off and tried it on the other car. And it works fine

Guess I'll put it together and try again. But sounded like grinding in a way

Your diffs are open diffs. When you spin one tire in one direction, the other tire will spin in the opposite direction. Thats normal. Without a diff, you would have horse poop turning, traction ETC. When you hold a tire, you are "diffing out" the other tire and you should hear some planet gear clicking. Totally normal.

Bah did it again. Wish I could post video. Ugh

 

[Senton_Prime]

Your diffs are open diffs. When you spin one tire in one direction, the other tire will spin in the opposite direction. Thats normal. Without a diff, you would have horse poop turning, traction ETC. When you hold a tire, you are "diffing out" the other tire and you should hear some planet gear clicking. Totally normal.

I'm thinking the same thing, but as far as it binding it could just need another shim or 1 less shim.. the diff lip might need sanded down some on both sides.. is this a new rig?

 

[gotnitro]

Then you are missing something internally. You should have some gear clicks when you diff out one tire because the QC on these planet gears is not perfect. If you are hearing some nasty gear salad, time to reopen and post pics.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

I'm thinking the same thing, but as far as it binding it could just need another shim or 1 less shim.. the diff lip might need sanded down some on both sides.. is this a new rig?

Month or so old. Been running like. A champ till now. Shim... what does that mean. Like something under it to keep it still?

 

[gotnitro]

A shim is a thin washer that would either push the planets closer to the sun gear or the exact opposite depending on total mesh. They are used on the input gear and the ring gear too.

 

[chilly81]

With the driveshaft out, rotate the input shaft with your fingers back and forth. Compared to the front one if you can. They should be similar. If the rear one moves more means you need to shim out it’s worn or possibly even made a mistake reassembling it? I have been guilty of that once or twice.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

With the driveshaft out, rotate the input shaft with your fingers back and forth. Compared to the front one if you can. They should be similar. If the rear one moves more means you need to shim out it’s worn or possibly even made a mistake reassembling it? I have been guilty of that once or twice.

No front one. But. I have 2 of these so I compare it to the other. I mean. The inside is very simple. No extra parts. I'll take pictures when I take it apart again. Just tired for now trying to figure it out

It wasn't working before I took it apart. And it's still the same. May need new diff or housing.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Figured it out I think. The big diff gear and pinion are stripped...

Can you over grease them? May have... but they seemed to be lacking any at all from factory.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Haa yep, look at the diff case in the first pic.. I'd say you had the slipper tight as could be!!

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Haa yep, look at the diff case in the first pic.. I'd say you had the slipper tight as could be!!

O. I did the roll forward it stops with tool on. Guess I'll loosen them. Oops.

Didn't think it really affected 2wd. Guess I learned.

Thanks

 

[SrC]

Figured it out I think. The big diff gear and pinion are stripped...

Can you over grease them? May have... but they seemed to be lacking any at all from factory.

View attachment 291293

View attachment 291294

Don't need much grease. But do need some for sure. Excess will just fling off the Gears anyway. And will make it more messy when it comes time to service it. Some prefer White Lithium based greases for Plastic gears. Arrma factory grease smells/stinks like Animal Pork fat. I doubt it is good grease from the get go out the box. I replace all my new rigs grease with better stuff. Should make the gears last way longer. Good to always check any NEW rig when new before you run it. Or you will get caught out there like you see now. Many diffs come dry. Open the diff case, I bet you will also be low on Silicone oil. You are in there already, rebuild the whole diff. Have silicone diff oil on hand as well. Do both Fr and Rr diffs. fill Oil and grease them. Shim as necessary. Because as the gears wear, shimming keeps them well matched, before its too late and strip out. Especially after an initial gear set break-in period.
I don't own any Arrma 4x4's like this one. I run metal geared 1/8 diffs. I use Superlube, Mobil 1 red or Lucas Blue WP Marine. Mostly the Synthetic greases on the Main and Input gears. Plastic gears commonly wear out fast. Nothing new. Get used to this or Consider spending More $$ and get $steel$ gear sets. No not cheap. But this is how you deal with most of the Arrma 4x4 line up. Is what it is. Arrma cheaps out on the 4x4 line up due to its low pricepoint. Plastic is cheap.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Don't need much grease. But do need some for sure. Excess will just fling off the Gears anyway. And will make it more messy when it comes time to service it. Some prefer Lithium based greases for Plastic gears. Arrma factory grease smells/stinks like Animal Pork fat. I doubt it is good grease from the get go out the box. I replace all my news rigs grease with better stuff. Should make the gears last way longer. Good to always check any NEW rig when new before you run it. Or you will get caught out there like you see now. AMny diffs are dry. Open the diff case, I bet you will be low on Silicone oil also.
I don't own any Arrma 4x4's like this one. I run metal geared 1/8 diffs. I use Superlube, Mobil 1 red or Lucas Blue WP Marine. Mostly the Synthetic greases on the Main and Input gears. Plastic gears commonly wear out fast. Nothing new. Get used to this or Consider spending More $$ and get $steel$ gear sets. No not cheap. But this is how you deal with most of the Arrma 4x4 line up. Is what it is. Arrma cheaps out on the 4x4 line up due to its low pricepoint. Plastic is cheap.

I got green marine grease. Put it on both. Then this happened to one of the 2. I race my kid with them.

Vortex boost. I like them. Kind of a good all around cheap. May not break. But lol. Can't say that now.

One day I will upgrade. Guess if it happens again I may at that point.

Thanks.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

Don't need much grease. But do need some for sure. Excess will just fling off the Gears anyway. And will make it more messy when it comes time to service it. Some prefer White Lithium based greases for Plastic gears. Arrma factory grease smells/stinks like Animal Pork fat. I doubt it is good grease from the get go out the box. I replace all my news rigs grease with better stuff. Should make the gears last way longer. Good to always check any NEW rig when new before you run it. Or you will get caught out there like you see now. Many diffs come dry. Open the diff case, I bet you will also be low on Silicone oil. You are in there already, rebuild the whole diff. Have silicone diff oil on hand as well. Do both Fr and Rr diffs. fill Oil and grease them. Shim as necessary. Because as the gears wear, shimming keeps them well matched, before its too late and strip out. Especially after an initial gear set break-in period.
I don't own any Arrma 4x4's like this one. I run metal geared 1/8 diffs. I use Superlube, Mobil 1 red or Lucas Blue WP Marine. Mostly the Synthetic greases on the Main and Input gears. Plastic gears commonly wear out fast. Nothing new. Get used to this or Consider spending More $$ and get $steel$ gear sets. No not cheap. But this is how you deal with most of the Arrma 4x4 line up. Is what it is. Arrma cheaps out on the 4x4 line up due to its low pricepoint. Plastic is cheap.

Where would you put these so called shims and what kind of washer?

I wouldn't have a clue where to add something and make it go back together

 

[RCbuzz]

Best bet is to avoid white lithium grease and use a plastic safe grease.

People really seem to like superlube silicone and synthetic grease (including myself).

I also have a tube of red and tacky which I like for certain applications and it does not seem to go after plastics at all.

 

[SrC]

I got green marine grease. Put it on both. Then this happened to one of the 2. I race my kid with them.

Vortex boost. I like them. Kind of a good all around cheap. May not break. But lol. Can't say that now.

One day I will upgrade. Guess if it happens again I may at that point.

Thanks.

When you upgrade, just by a 3s or 6s 4WD Arrma. Don't sink all your apples into that "Boost" stuff there. It is budget stuff as you already know. And Arrma tried to make a quick money grab. The Boost lineup got some BS YT hype, then it petered out quick. Not popular, not $practical$, not durable.. It was designed for the newbs, not in the know IMHO. Buy cheap buy twice.

 

[Vortex 2wd]

When you upgrade, just by a 3s or 6s 4WD Arrma. Don't sink all your apples into that "Boost" stuff there. It is budget stuff as you already know. And Arrma tried to make a quick money grab. The Boost lineup got some BS YT hype, then it petered out quick. Not popular, not $practical$, not durable.. It was designed for the newbs, not in the know IMHO. Buy cheap buy twice.

I race my kids with them. Right price. Right speed. But yeah. I agree.

Seems the more expensive Versions come with most the same parts??