Custom RC Snowcat Build Thread

[Mr. RC]

Take a look at my Build Thread ,I have all the 3D software listed there down the page.



"Easy" is a relative word...
They are all easy if you know drafting and understand mechanical engineering.

ill give it a shot, we will see how things work out

 

[Dan B.]

What about taking a different approach and using inboard belt drives? Would allow you to gear it way more easily.

 

[Mr. RC]

Boys.. I’m back!



I’ve taken a long break from posting and working on this project but I’ve solved my main problem. If you remember I was having trouble with the motors and the gear reduction case being too large for the tracks to move over them. I had started to grind down the casing but metal shavings started to jam the gears and there was now a few descent sized holes in the casing. Because this was going to be operating in the snow, having a place where snow and dirt could get in side wasn’t ideal.



Me and my uncle (whose an engineer) were talking and we came up with a solution of grinding the gear box down as much as needed, get rid of the old grease with metal shavings, and what ever holes appear would be covered by a soda can that’s rapped around the end.



Looking back at it, it’s a simple solution for a simple problem, and I’m not sure why I was so caught up with it



I’ve already done one motor and i think it looks fantastic. I’ll probably redo the right motor tomorrow, and I’ll show you what I did in more detail.



I know that this was a long read, sorry about that, but I felt that it was necessary to explain where I have been. I’ll also leave a picture of what the first motor looks like fully re-done.

 

[Mr. RC]

I’ve pretty much completed the second motor and I’ll walk through what I did. I took the motor that I re-did yesterday and made a rough outline of where I want to grind down to on the second one.

I just used a table grinder that we picked up no to long ago, and it works like a charm.

Because of all the metal dust that gets inside, I took the casing apart and got rid of all the current grease, and washed the gears. I then added some new water proof grease which made it operate like new.

There is still a hole at the end of the casing so I took a soda can and cut a strip that is about 2 centimeters wide. That is able to rap around and cover the gaps perfectly. I ran a bead of super glue around the edge to and that seems to be holding the cover on fine.

That’s basically it, I just re-attached the motors using the method I used earlier (there should be a photo of it) and I am just about to set up the transmitter for tank steering.

 

[Tex Koder]

I’ve pretty much completed the second motor and I’ll walk through what I did. I took the motor that I re-did yesterday and made a rough outline of where I want to grind down to on the second one.
View attachment 316265

I just used a table grinder that we picked up no to long ago, and it works like a charm.
View attachment 316266

Because of all the metal dust that gets inside, I took the casing apart and got rid of all the current grease, and washed the gears. I then added some new water proof grease which made it operate like new.
View attachment 316267

View attachment 316268

View attachment 316269

There is still a hole at the end of the casing so I took a soda can and cut a strip that is about 2 centimeters wide. That is able to rap around and cover the gaps perfectly. I ran a bead of super glue around the edge to and that seems to be holding the cover on fine.
View attachment 316270

View attachment 316271

That’s basically it, I just re-attached the motors using the method I used earlier (there should be a photo of it) and I am just about to set up the transmitter for tank steering.

View attachment 316272

Great job!
Looks almost like OEM original.


Also, you might want to take a tight trace of that new exterior profile/shape (while you have it out of the chassis)
Just in case you want a custom 3D designed cover produced in the future.

 

[Mr. RC]

Great job!
Looks almost like OEM original.


Also, you might want to take a tight trace of that new exterior profile/shape (while you have it out of the chassis)
Just in case you want a custom 3D designed cover produced in the future.

Never would have thought of that, good Idea

 

[kspitters]

Great work @Mr. RC! Looks amazing.

 

[Mr. RC]

Great work @Mr. RC! Looks amazing.

Thank you man
And I am excited to say that last night I got it to move under its own power! 5the current motors are set for 100 rpm which is definitely way to slow, so I’ll probably move to 250 or 300 rpm if I can find one in the future. Right now it’s more of a proof of concept then the final product, but for now I’m just happy that it works.

There is a video linked below (sorry for the background noise)

 

[Mr. RC]

It snowed over the weekend, and i was able to get the snow groomer out and test it. I’ll say it worked okay, but there is definitely some things that need to be adjusted.

i was also able to get the tiller to go up and down, ill post about that late today.

 

[Mr. RC]

Wow apologies for the delay.

Here’s a video I took a few days ago. It works pretty good. I recommend watching the video on 2x speed

Here is the list of changes that I will do when I have time:
- New servo for the rear tiller. For some reason the one I have right now malfunctions when it’s cold out. I’m planning on going for the same Savox servo I have in the front.
- faster motors, probably around 250 rmp. (Current are 120)
- new ESC with a F/R feature. (Currently I only have ESC’s with F/B/R, which is not good for tracks.

 

[Dan B.]

That is so freaking cool! Nice job, man!

 

[Mr. RC]

That is so freaking cool! Nice job, man!

Thank you! I’m really happy I got everything sorted out.

 

[Bbqguy52]

I love it! Great job