Vorteks My first RC and build.

[MrFixit420]

Well I finally did it. Started my mods.
First step was Typhon upper and lower arms and linkage.
With those I added the aluminum bushings. Still on stock wheels and tires but such an improvement. It's an inch wider and much more stable. After recalibrating the sterring limits it works great.

 

[Punky]

I did the same today. Also fitted a 15T pinion in case I go for bigger tyres

 

[FlipSide]

Very nice! I love my Vorteks. Great little car that loves to go fast!

 

[Neelis]

Nice! What are your future plans?

 

[Bustedaw11]

I did the same today. Also fitted a 15T pinion in case I go for bigger tyresView attachment 329262

View attachment 329261

Love this body color!

 

[MrFixit420]

Nice! What are your future plans?

At the moment let it fly and see what breaks. Fix from there. Unless you got some good ideas.
Right now it's plenty fast so making it more reliable is my goal.
Maybe upgraded fans and servo when it goes.
Open to any and all suggestions.

 

[Bustedaw11]

At the moment let it fly and see what breaks. Fix from there. Unless you got some good ideas.
Right now it's plenty fast so making it more reliable is my goal.
Maybe upgraded fans and servo when it goes.
Open to any and all suggestions.

Have you done the diff fluid yet? If not you should. They ship with barely any in there. Great time to try out some DIFF weights (see what I did there? )

Another thing is slash 4x4 vxl tie rods. I'm actually doing that on my big rock currently. Stock plastic pivot balls wear quickly and cause a lot of slop.

 

[MrFixit420]

Have you done the diff fluid yet? If not you should. They ship with barely any in there. Great time to try out some DIFF weights (see what I did there? )

Another thing is slash 4x4 vxl tie rods. I'm actually doing that on my big rock currently. Stock plastic pivot balls wear quickly and cause a lot of slop.

The tie rods I have already have the "aluminum?" pivot balls mounted.

Diff Fluid? How when where why?
Seriously where do I start? I'm a vehicle mechanic and while a lot transfers over much is different.
Thanks.

 

[Just a hobby]

The tie rods I have already have the "aluminum?" pivot balls mounted.

Diff Fluid? How when where why?
Seriously where do I start? I'm a vehicle mechanic and while a lot transfers over much is different.
Thanks.

You Tube video will be your best bet for the diff removal and fluid check. And metal gear diff and pinion in the rear is a good upgrade, front doesn't get the same load of abuse.

 

[Neelis]

At the moment let it fly and see what breaks. Fix from there. Unless you got some good ideas.
Right now it's plenty fast so making it more reliable is my goal.
Maybe upgraded fans and servo when it goes.
Open to any and all suggestions.

Checking diff oil levels is a good suggestion. Metal input gear diff. Diff with metal crown gear at some point.
Traxxas 5525 pivot balls.

Check out my built thread for some inspiration. My Typhon is pretty much 4s ready.

 

[Bustedaw11]

The tie rods I have already have the "aluminum?" pivot balls mounted.

Diff Fluid? How when where why?
Seriously where do I start? I'm a vehicle mechanic and while a lot transfers over much is different.
Thanks.

I believe this video should get you all the info you need.
I'm also a mechanic! You've got this.

 

[MrFixit420]

You Tube video will be your best bet for the diff removal and fluid check. And metal gear diff and pinion in the rear is a good upgrade, front doesn't get the same load of abuse.

Checking diff oil levels is a good suggestion. Metal input gear diff. Diff with metal crown gear at some point.
Traxxas 5525 pivot balls.

Check out my built thread for some inspiration. My Typhon is pretty much 4s ready.

I thought the Vorteks had metal gears. This is what it says.
Durable 37T 1.35 module differential gears, metal internal diff gears and silicone O-rings
Does it need something else?

 

[Bustedaw11]

I thought the Vorteks had metal gears. This is what it says.
Durable 37T 1.35 module differential gears, metal internal diff gears and silicone O-rings
Does it need something else?

Its sort of mis-leading. The internal gears IN the diff are metal, but the outside ring and pinion gear is plastic..

 

[Neelis]

I mean this input gear:

To replace it by a metal one:

Or even better, input gear and crown gear of metal:

Whoops...

 

[Punky]

There is a boost set available with 2 metal diffs.

 

[MrFixit420]

There is a boost set available with 2 metal diffs.

Link please?

 

[FlipSide]

At the moment let it fly and see what breaks. Fix from there. Unless you got some good ideas.
Right now it's plenty fast so making it more reliable is my goal.
Maybe upgraded fans and servo when it goes.
Open to any and all suggestions.

You can check my Vorteks build thread here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/flips-vorteks.38373/

The list of upgrades I did to it (on top of completely disassemble and properly reassemble the RC):
- Body reinforced with Shoe-goo and drywall tape;
- Spektrum S6240 servo
- Kimbrough 124 servo saver
- Arrma steel spur gear;
- KC-RC 7075 motor plate;
- KC-RC 7075 motor hinge pin holders (F/R);
- KC-RC motor fan;

For increased durability, I'd say the motor plate is a must and the steel spur is very nice.

For increased performance, the faster servo makes a world of difference.

 

[MrFixit420]

Well I finally had some time to devote to the car.
I replaced the fluid in both differentials with 20,000. They were not full from the factory.
Also did all 4 shocks with 55wt. Definitely seems to feel better dampened. Again shocks not fully filled from the factory.
Haven't had a chance to run it yet. I'll report back.
I looked over the diffs and saw the weakness mentioned. I found the boost kit and think I am going to use that. Seems like the best bet for price and quality.
I really appreciate all the help.

 

[MrFixit420]

With the stock ESC being so limited I decided to upgrade. I couldn't leave well enough alone and got a bigger motor too.
Here's a picture of the new and old motors for comparison.

 

[MrFixit420]

OK I've got the new ESC and Motor in. Reassembled with a purple center brace and the Arrma driveshaft support bearing.
Also put twin fans on the motor and got a dust shield. I spent more time cleaning the twigs out of it last time than I did running it. We will see how it works. Yes I will be watching for overheating.
I setup the esc and have test run it on 3s just to make sure it went forward and back and braked properly. Next decent day will get out and see how it runs on 3s and maybe stick the 4s battery in if all looks well.