Diff Housing Shim Has a Crimp

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JustAnOutcast

compulsive over-thinker, I think. 🤔
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My first front diff tear down on the Outcast 6s EXB and I found a crimped/bent housing shim. There isn’t a shim on the other side.

Did I somehow do this pulling it out??? A trick from the factory? Internal damage? Diff turns very smooth so 🤷‍♂️

Thanks for all comments and suggestions.

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Shim was not seated properly before installing the diff housing cover.. flatten it back out and reinstall it on the same side.. this only happens on assembly, not disassembly, so nothing you did wrong..👍
 
Yeah that is user error 99% of the time. And you did that. Or the factory. Rare that I've seen these bent from the factory however. Just one time with my NIB Limitless that I remember.
You can simply place that shim on a hard flat surface and smack it with a hammer to flatten it.. Usually works. It is super thin.
I have even received crushed new ones damaged from shipping. They are delicate. Once installed "correctly" they stay fine. Patience installing them, or they always get crushed or bent.
Shim only goes on the Main gear side of the Ball Bearing. Not the other side. Sometimes you may need 2 shims.
 
Shim was not seated properly before installing the diff housing cover.. flatten it back out and reinstall it on the same side.. this only happens on assembly, not disassembly, so nothing you did wrong..👍
Thanks for the vote of confidence!

While trying to pull it straight out, it somehow binded up on one side and I had to reseat and try again. Plus being my first diff service, I humbly suspect user error. 🤕

It came with a pack of shims, so I may just use a new one if there looks to be any stress damage after flattening out.
 
If you have a new one, absolutely use them. But if stuck without, you can hammer it flat.
Again, you may need 2 shims. Double check with one or two. Trial fitting. There should be no left -right movement of the diff within the bulkhead. Trial fit without any shims first, and you may see that slop. Main/ input gear Mesh will be loose without any shims or not enough of them. Every diff may be different. One may need 2 and the other may need 1. I have even needed 3 on occasion. Rare with stock thickness shims.
But I use/prefer Tekno diff shims.
 
If you have a new one, absolutely use them. But if stuck without, you can hammer it flat.
Again, you may need 2 shims. Double check with one or two. Trial fitting. There should be no left -right movement of the diff within the bulkhead. Trial fit without any shims first, and you may see that slop. Main/ input gear Mesh will be loose without any shims or not enough of them. Every diff may be different. One may need 2 and the other may need 1. I have even needed 3 on occasion. Rare with stock thickness shims.
But I use/prefer Tekno diff shims.
Invaluable information, thank you!
 
On very rare occassions I have needed no shims at all.
With extended use the diff may need an additional shim, noticed when you do a diff maintenance. You may even hear the Main and Imput gears chatter. Don't continue to drive it. It may need one more shim. Or you will brick the gears, teeth can strip or even crack.
The composite plastic bulkheads will break-in, sometimes stretch ever so slightly with use and power loading. Gear mesh also breaks-in. Even the shims can thin out and flatten more. So sometimes a extra shim may be needed when it does.
Use any Automotive Grade grease for the Main/input gears. Always clean off old grease and look over the gears for wear or teeth that chipped. When opening the bulkhead.
 
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Thanks for the vote of confidence!

While trying to pull it straight out, it somehow binded up on one side and I had to reseat and try again. Plus being my first diff service, I humbly suspect user error. 🤕

It came with a pack of shims, so I may just use a new one if there looks to be any stress damage after flattening out.

Well the bind on the way out would not compress the shim laterally and pinch it in such a manner.. it would bend, but not crease.. so this was an assembly issue, from the factory.. so breathe easy, I would say confidently it was not your doing ..

I would search YouTube for proper shimming procedures.. it's easy to say/type but watching it done will help you on proper setup.. I have a video posted that may help you... I can post it here if your interested..👍
 
Yes sir, please do!


Skip to 14:20... Hope this helps . Not the best video but it should give you the idea.. they all build the same, so disregard the fact that it's in a felony...👍
 


Skip to 14:20... Hope this helps . Not the best video but it should give you the idea.. they all build the same, so disregard the fact that it's in a felony...👍
Very informative!!! Thanks again.

Wish I had watched it BEFORE closing up the front diff. :confused:

I’m going to open it up again and do the mesh test you showed. At least now I know…(y)
Well the bind on the way out would not compress the shim laterally and pinch it in such a manner.. it would bend, but not crease.. so this was an assembly issue, from the factory.. so breathe easy, I would say confidently it was not your doing ..

I would search YouTube for proper shimming procedures.. it's easy to say/type but watching it done will help you on proper setup.. I have a video posted that may help you... I can post it here if your interested..👍

Aha! Mystery solved. Looking over my tear down pics I found this one just after removing the housing cover. So it DID come from the factory this way! :sneaky:
 

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