Thank you. That's what I'll switch it too. I'd like to get it sliding the back end more instead of traction rolling. Would this do that with more power going to the rear, or will I need 50 or so in the rear?That front/rear is probably just fine. 500 in the middle would really wake the car up.
Yeah going from 100k to 200k CST is not much of a jump at the center, Hard to really notice any difference.I'm new too and have just started experimenting. I've got 50/200/30 in it now and it still feels a little too open.
Thank you. I'm thinking 500 now.Yeah going from 100k to 200k CST is not much of a jump at the center, Hard to really notice any difference.
300k + is where you will start to feel the difference. I change the center diff at 200kcst increments. To find my preferred oil.
BTW 50kF/ 30kR is also a nice setup.
Too thick in the rear will cause too much push.( Understeer)Thank you. That's what I'll switch it too. I'd like to get it sliding the back end more instead of traction rolling. Would this do that with more power going to the rear, or will I need 50 or so in the rear?
Thankyou to all replying to this thread. I just learned alot on diffs. I've currently got 300k in center & 30k front 10k rearToo thick in the rear will cause too much push.( Understeer)
Usually aprox. 2 times the cst in the front compared the rear is good. If it still pushes, I would go up to 60k at front . The rear is ok with 20-30k.
Now that is a cool ideaMany settle on 500k. I have even mixed batches of oil to make my own blend. Usually if I am short on what oil I need. Usually only in the Center and I rely on the turning feel of the diff in my hand to judge. After a while you can feel the diff action based on your chosen oil. Make sure to let air bleed out the diff and top off as needed before closing it up. Filling should be done very slowly . Let the diff sit open on the bench for the better part of an hour at least and it will settle down, then you add more oil to top off. If you don't, you end up with an underfilled Diff. Not realizing. Then the diff will even feel like it has much thinner oil then you wanted and put in.
I use a Tamiya Shock Vacuum pump on my diffs to bleed out the air. It's quicker. Not necessary if you are patient. But a great tool for shocks. The main reason I got it.
This is my TLRT diff inside the Pump. Once under a vacuum, all the air suddenly and immediately rises. I stop when there are no air bubbles seen. Then take it out of the pump and usually it takes some more oil. How you know it will be topped off. Air that remains after closing up the diff displaces room for more oil. Becomes technically underfilled, hence more friction and the diff runs hotter under load. Thick oil takes very long to bleed. For me it is the longest part of the diff build process. And that is with the Pump. Without a Vacuum pump, I'll even let the diff sit open overnight. Usually with >500k+ oils.
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