Diff oil for Best Handling On Mojave EXB

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Brian65

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Arrma RC's
  1. Mojave EXB
  2. Typhon 3s
Is the stock 10/100/10 oil best for handling? Mainly use truck for dirt off-road track & ripping around yard. I put some 300k in center and truck seemed to launch harder. What you all use?
 
I went 60k Fr/500k Center/30k Rear. Leave the 300k in the Center diff for now and thicken the the Fr and Rear oil. Then evalaute.
Less diff bleed results from thicker oil. This spares the drivetrain and tires better. It will liven up the rig. Be warned. Drive accordingly.
Most all my 6s rigs use the 60k/30k. (F/R). At the center I run either 300k or 500k depending on the rig. Its personal preference from there.
The stocker 10/100/10k oils are just too thin IMHO. Diffs wear out faster also.
Most of us will thicken all diff oils. I do this right out the box when they are new. A no brainer.
Always look over the diffs when new . They are usually low on oil from the factory anyway, like 99% of the time. When low, the new diffs will be bricked way sooner than later.
 
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I'm new too and have just started experimenting. I've got 50/200/30 in it now and it still feels a little too open.
 
Ozric said:
I'm new too and have just started experimenting. I've got 50/200/30 in it now and it still feels a little too open.
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That front/rear is probably just fine. 500 in the middle would really wake the car up.
 
dure16 said:
That front/rear is probably just fine. 500 in the middle would really wake the car up.
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Thank you. That's what I'll switch it too. I'd like to get it sliding the back end more instead of traction rolling. Would this do that with more power going to the rear, or will I need 50 or so in the rear?
 
Ozric said:
I'm new too and have just started experimenting. I've got 50/200/30 in it now and it still feels a little too open.
Click to expand...
Yeah going from 100k to 200k CST is not much of a jump at the center, Hard to really notice any difference.
300k + is where you will start to feel the difference. I change the center diff at 200kcst increments. To find my preferred oil.
BTW 50kF/ 30kR is also a nice setup.
 
SrC said:
Yeah going from 100k to 200k CST is not much of a jump at the center, Hard to really notice any difference.
300k + is where you will start to feel the difference. I change the center diff at 200kcst increments. To find my preferred oil.
BTW 50kF/ 30kR is also a nice setup.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I'm thinking 500 now.
 
Many settle on 500k. I have even mixed batches of oil to make my own blend. Usually if I am short on what oil I need. Usually only in the Center and I rely on the turning feel of the diff in my hand to judge. After a while you can feel the diff action based on your chosen oil. Make sure to let air bleed out the diff and top off as needed before closing it up. Filling should be done very slowly . Let the diff sit open on the bench for the better part of an hour at least and it will settle down, then you add more oil to top off. If you don't, you end up with an underfilled Diff. Not realizing. Then the diff will even feel like it has much thinner oil then you wanted and put in.
I use a Tamiya Shock Vacuum pump on my diffs to bleed out the air. It's quicker. Not necessary if you are patient. But a great tool for shocks. The main reason I got it.

This is my TLRT diff inside the Pump. Once under a vacuum, all the air suddenly and immediately rises. I stop when there are no air bubbles seen. Then take it out of the pump and usually it takes some more oil. How you know it will be topped off. Air that remains after closing up the diff displaces room for more oil. Becomes technically underfilled, hence more friction and the diff runs hotter under load. Thick oil takes very long to bleed. For me it is the longest part of the diff build process. And that is with the Pump. Without a Vacuum pump, I'll even let the diff sit open overnight. Usually with >500k+ oils.
1670204329968.png
 
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Ozric said:
Thank you. That's what I'll switch it too. I'd like to get it sliding the back end more instead of traction rolling. Would this do that with more power going to the rear, or will I need 50 or so in the rear?
Click to expand...
Too thick in the rear will cause too much push.( Understeer)
Usually aprox. 2 times the cst in the front compared the rear is good. If it still pushes, I would go up to 60k at front . The rear is ok with 20-30k.
 
SrC said:
Too thick in the rear will cause too much push.( Understeer)
Usually aprox. 2 times the cst in the front compared the rear is good. If it still pushes, I would go up to 60k at front . The rear is ok with 20-30k.
Click to expand...
Thankyou to all replying to this thread. I just learned alot on diffs. I've currently got 300k in center & 30k front 10k rear
 
Hi all from Oz,
So from what I understand, and mind you I'm new to this platform. 500k is the go in the center and 60 up front and 30 in the rear?
That is cool
SrC said:
Many settle on 500k. I have even mixed batches of oil to make my own blend. Usually if I am short on what oil I need. Usually only in the Center and I rely on the turning feel of the diff in my hand to judge. After a while you can feel the diff action based on your chosen oil. Make sure to let air bleed out the diff and top off as needed before closing it up. Filling should be done very slowly . Let the diff sit open on the bench for the better part of an hour at least and it will settle down, then you add more oil to top off. If you don't, you end up with an underfilled Diff. Not realizing. Then the diff will even feel like it has much thinner oil then you wanted and put in.
I use a Tamiya Shock Vacuum pump on my diffs to bleed out the air. It's quicker. Not necessary if you are patient. But a great tool for shocks. The main reason I got it.

This is my TLRT diff inside the Pump. Once under a vacuum, all the air suddenly and immediately rises. I stop when there are no air bubbles seen. Then take it out of the pump and usually it takes some more oil. How you know it will be topped off. Air that remains after closing up the diff displaces room for more oil. Becomes technically underfilled, hence more friction and the diff runs hotter under load. Thick oil takes very long to bleed. For me it is the longest part of the diff build process. And that is with the Pump. Without a Vacuum pump, I'll even let the diff sit open overnight. Usually with >500k+ oils.
View attachment 260420
Click to expand...
Now that is a cool idea 💡
 
Well, my local Hobbytown didn’t have 500, so I’m trying a mix of 1mil and the 200 that was in it. We shall see.
 

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