Drivetrain skipping

[Theotherguy85]

Hello all!!! I have been reading a ton in the forums but never posted until now. I'm stuck and not sure where to go so what better way then to talk to the community.

I purchased the Notorious a couple months ago and have a few issues with the drive train. Bending rear center driveshaft or something skipping on the drivetrain.

My main issue is that on takeoffs if I hammer down it seems to be skipping a tooth. It doesn't happen all the time but I can't stand it!!! I have no idea where it could be coming from. I check the motor and pinion, the center diff pinion but there is no visual damage to either one. I looked at the outlines and still don't see anything. Please help I HAVE to be over looking something!!!!

Thank yall for your time,
Kyle (Theotherguy)

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

That's usually a culprit of a front or rear diff. The crown and pinion need to be checked and shimmed if it isn't too late.

 

[FatCatRC]

Hello all!!! I have been reading a ton in the forums but never posted until now. I'm stuck and not sure where to go so what better way then to talk to the community.

I purchased the Notorious a couple months ago and have a few issues with the drive train. Bending rear center driveshaft or something skipping on the drivetrain.

My main issue is that on takeoffs if I hammer down it seems to be skipping a tooth. It doesn't happen all the time but I can't stand it!!! I have no idea where it could be coming from. I check the motor and pinion, the center diff pinion but there is no visual damage to either one. I looked at the outlines and still don't see anything. Please help I HAVE to be over looking something!!!!

Thank yall for your time,
Kyle (Theotherguy)

Pull out the rear diff and check your ring gear. I garuntee it's skipping. If not the rear it will be the front. You gotta get new ring gear and pinion and then shim the ring gear so it meshs better with the pinion.

 

[drod50]

I just hit something like this yesterday. I ran with 4S bashing. Then after a 15 minute bash I let my truck sit and then decided to put my two 3S batteries in there. I then ran the truck on 6S and wow very fast. I bashed in a field for sometime and noticed smoke coming from the differential. This truck is less than one month. Is this a differential issue and that I should take it apart and replace the differential? I do not have any extra fans in there other than the stocked fan.

 

[FatCatRC]

I just hit something like this yesterday. I ran with 4S bashing. Then after a 15 minute bash I let my truck sit and then decided to put my two 3S batteries in there. I then ran the truck on 6S and wow very fast. I bashed in a field for sometime and noticed smoke coming from the differential. This truck is less than one month. Is this a differential issue and that I should take it apart and replace the differential? I do not have any extra fans in there other than the stocked fan.

More than likely with arrmas shotty QC the diff was dry or low from factory. Also the stock fluid is too thin and heats up real quick. Guys have completely melted the stock plastic diffs. Metal diffs are better.

 

[SrC]

^^^
@drod50 , Which 6s rig is this? Smoke coming from which diff? The center one will usually overheat, literally melt to a lump of plastic and metal gears. Been there one time, because I never checked all 3 diffs out the box. They are usually just Very Low on fluid. My center diff melted and my temp gun showed well over 200F when it happened. It also overheated the motor. Consider servicing the motor and its BB's as well. Very important. And the spur gear may be the only salvageable part of that bricked center diff. If you never opened that center diff, it was probably low on 100k oil from the factory. They will fail easily this way. You are not alone. Rebuild all 3 diffs at this time. The F/R will also be on very borrowed time. For oil, use 30-60k fr, 200-500k center, 20-30k rear. Use these oil weights if you are using standard RTR V4/V5 Open Diffs. Not if you have the LSD EXB diffs. They use a lighter, closer to stock weight CST oil. Others may chime in on the LSD EXB diffs if this is what you have. Having changed to a 6s lipo when this happened, is what melted the diff. But it was on borrowed time out the box, IMO. You are not alone regarding this.

Like @FatCatRC stated above you should use an Arrma metal diff case at the center, when replacing the center one. Center usually run Hottest in general.
What I recommend:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050