Kraton Droop screw no longer adjustable on v5. Look inside... pics included.

[SrC]

I use a 2mm ball hex sometimes, depending on the rig, to adjust the Droop from the top. I find the front droop screw is hard to get to due to the upper front arms blocking the driver. I drill a small hole through each upper arm for access to those screws. A hole just large enough the get a hex driver aligned straight down. FWIW.

BTW, I use some Chap Stick on the threads of Droop screws when installing in new uncut threaded arm holes. Those screws must be installed perfecty straight into the arms (done before installing new arms), or the droop screws wont hit the Chassis droop ears evenly left and right. Sometimes I pre-thread using a 4mm cap head socket screw. Droop will be slightly "off", left and right if not threaded straight. The droop screws can drift to the edge of the ears, then chassis ears gouge out faster like this.

 

[anthonyslwooko]

Had such a horrible time adjusting droop screws from the top with MIPs. With the new design just compress the A arm all the way or like someone said remove the shock which is super easy and then you’ll have full access to the droop screw. If you don’t like the new design get on it and buy the M2C droop screws

 

[SrC]

^^^ MIP or any standard hex driver will be a bear, Ball driver is great for this sometimes, or even a short BS Allen key will work in a pinch. Depends on which rig you have. As I stated above, at the front, I drill small holes in the upper arms for access to the lower arm droop screws. RPM upper arms on my kraton and Noto can be a bear. You cant really drill those. Wouldn't want to, by their shape and all. I use a ball driver. Or slightly compress the shock for access with a standard MIP or similar.
The stock upper arms can be drilled or even notched out slightly to gain access with a driver.
Below is an example of my Lim. I use the Avid Ti smooth head Droop screws here. And also the Noto. (upper arms notched out with a dremel) Both Stock arms.

I have a Trivia question.....
Can anyone tell from the the picture above, how we know it is in fact a NOTO or OC that we are looking at and not a Kraton???
I wonder who has a very keen eye.

 

[walloftvs]

Never said it was rocket science. I'd like to see you adjust it from the bottom with without a ball tip driver. The avg enthusiast doesn't have one. Which makes it a pain in the ass and we have to figure out a different way. Nobody wants to spend more money on tools that are rarely needed. On top of the fact ball tip drivers can strip heads easily if not used correctly.

Yep, totally not doable. /s ?

FYI, this is a regular 2.5mm MIP hex driver.

 

[SrC]

Good point. Duly noted.
Yet depends depends on the rig and how much droop you are looking for. That Driver will be off angle at some point as you limit the droop of the arm. (Screwing it out at the bottom)
I imagine you have the shock removed???

@Daddytrex, its not a bad idea to have a quality ball hex driver around. Yes they are more fragile and wear easy on fasteners. I have one 2mm that helps in difficult situations. It is rarely used. Had it for years. And never used on tight high load or thread locked or Rusted fasteners. So when I do need it is in decent shape. 1.5mm ball hexes will always snap or wear out and ruin fasteners quick.. 2.5's are rarely needed from my experience with 1/8 scale rigs. But to use ball hexes regularly is a mistake for sure. Only use straight hex drivers.

 

[SrC]

Screwing droop from the bottom just has some drawbacks. The shocks sometimes must be unattached, Hard to measure the shock droop as a result with them disconnected. The hexes are always caked with dirt, get rusted and damaged from wear and the hex driver cant always get a good bite. ?‍ I find that a nuisance. Is it just me???

 

[WestOz RC]

I agree with GRIFFINJ, M2C droop screws will sort it. The heads are bigger so they won’t damage the chassis tabs and are adjustable from the top. ??

 

[Finchy]

^^^ MIP or any standard hex driver will be a bear, Ball driver is great for this sometimes, or even a short BS Allen key will work in a pinch. Depends on which rig you have. As I stated above, at the front, I drill small holes in the upper arms for access to the lower arm droop screws. RPM upper arms on my kraton and Noto can be a bear. You cant really drill those. Wouldn't want to, by their shape and all. I use a ball driver. Or slightly compress the shock for access with a standard MIP or similar.
The stock upper arms can be drilled or even notched out slightly to gain access with a driver.
Below is an example of my Lim. I use the Avid Ti smooth head Droop screws here. And also the Noto. (upper arms notched out with a dremel) Both Stock arms.

View attachment 112723

View attachment 112724

View attachment 112729

View attachment 112730


I have a Trivia question.....
Can anyone tell from the the picture above, how we know it is in fact a NOTO or OC that we are looking at and not a Kraton???
I wonder who has a very keen eye.

Front mud guards on noto and a outcast. Not on the kraton

 

[SrC]

Front mud guards on noto and a outcast. Not on the kraton

Hey I give you credit for trying.
You are the only response so far.

But that's not it.

My Kraton came with those mud guards. Just like my Noto.
I'll give a hint....
"The Noto. and Kraton have different castor angles" by design. What parts change that castor angle and visible in the picture.?

 

[Finchy]

Hey I give you credit for trying.
You are the only response so far.

But that's not it.

My Kraton came with those mud guards. Just like my Noto.
I'll give a hint....
"The Noto. and Kraton have different castor angles" by design. What parts change that castor angle and visible in the picture.?

Darn lol. My kraton didn’t have those it’s v4. Then it must be the shims on the upper a arms? Also own the outcast Talion and typhon. Love em lol. My first real electric bashers. Big nitro head for over 20 yrs lmao!!

 

[SrC]

BINGO.
You are correct. the placement of the shims are different for Kraton and Not. The shorter wheel base Noto/OC gets less Castor angle at the upper arms. So all the shims (4MM) are placed rearward. The LWB Kraton uses 2mm shimming at front and then at rear of the upper arm. (less castor) Many guys mix them up as I've seen in pictures without realizing. But if you are aware of these Castor shims, you can tweak them to your advantage. You can dial in more or less steering.
Good eye. You know your Arrmas.

BTW its possible your K6s didnt come with Fr Mud guards. I see some without, Guess it depends. ?‍ Arrma had changed revisions years back. V5 has them for sure. Its on the "standard parts list".

 

[Finchy]

BINGO.
You are correct. the placement of the shims are different for Kraton and Not. The shorter wheel base Noto/OC gets less Castor angle at the upper arms. So all the shims (4MM) are placed rearward. The LWB Kraton uses 2mm shimming at front and then at rear of the upper arm. (less castor) Many guys mix them up as I've seen in pictures without realizing. But if you are aware of these Castor shims, you can tweak them to your advantage. You can dial in more or less steering.
Good eye. You know your Arrmas.

BTW its possible your K6s didnt come with Fr Mud guards. I see some without, Guess it depends. ?‍ Arrma had changed revisions years back. V5 has them for sure. Its on the "standard parts list".

Thanks. However I’ve only had them a few months. I have read a bunch of your posts. And have to say you are a arrma wizard!!! Super knowledgeable. I got silly and bought all 4 6s within weeks of each other lol. All are v4 as far as I know. They were all purchased at lhs about 3 months ago!! Go arrma!!

 

[SrC]

Thanks for the kind words.
You obviously have absorbed so much in a short time.
Arrma's are great RC products.
The 6S line is so easy from my perspective. Once you understand the chassis, all 6S rigs become easy to understand and work on. They all vary slightly in configuration, thus drive differently and unique. Many parts interchange, so it makes sense to stay with the 6S line.

 

[slick2500]

BINGO.
You are correct. the placement of the shims are different for Kraton and Not. The shorter wheel base Noto/OC gets less Castor angle at the upper arms. So all the shims (4MM) are placed rearward. The LWB Kraton uses 2mm shimming at front and then at rear of the upper arm. (less castor) Many guys mix them up as I've seen in pictures without realizing. But if you are aware of these Castor shims, you can tweak them to your advantage. You can dial in more or less steering.
Good eye. You know your Arrmas.

BTW its possible your K6s didnt come with Fr Mud guards. I see some without, Guess it depends. ?‍ Arrma had changed revisions years back. V5 has them for sure. Its on the "standard parts list".

No they are not, look at the exploded diagrams of both vehicles, both show 1 big spacer in the front 2 little in the back. All of the offroad 6s cars are all set up from the factory with the exact same caster angle, 1 big spacer in front and 2 little spacers in the rear.

 

[SrC]

Hummm.
I know for a fact that my 2018 early release Noto had them all placed at the rear (all 4mm worth of shims.) examined it well upon rebuilding it out the box. I questioned the difference in castor angle when it was new, and attributed it to the specific wheelbase and application of the Noto/ OC.
Perhaps a mfr. assembly inconsistency. A Blowup diagram error carried over to all 6s models? Which I have seen before. ?‍
However as you point out, the manual is clear. We can only go by this or what we out of box.
Does the 6s Outcast blow up diagram also show the same?? And why would these shims be in 1mm and 2mm parts? Seems they are designed to be split up or grouped together, to alter castor as desired?

@slick2500 I'll stand corrected. You are the best source. Thanks.

 

[slick2500]

Hummm.
I know for a fact that my 2018 early release Noto had them all placed at the rear (all 4mm worth of shims.) examined it well upon rebuilding it out the box. I questioned the difference in castor angle when it was new, and attributed it to the specific wheelbase and application of the Noto/ OC.
Perhaps a mfr. assembly inconsistency. A Blowup diagram error carried over to all 6s models? Which I have seen before. ?‍
However as you point out, the manual is clear. We can only go by this or what we out of box.
Does the 6s Outcast blow up diagram also show the same?? And why would these shims be in 1mm and 2mm parts? Seems they are designed to be split up or grouped together, to alter castor as desired?

@slick2500 I'll stand corrected. You are the best source. Thanks.

Yes it does. This is the V4/2019 manual. My V1 Outcast was set up the same way as all the manuals show, 1 big in front 2 little in the rear. I would like to think someone messed up assembling your Notorious is more likely than Arrma misprinting the manuals for the last 6 years.

 

[SrC]

That's why I agree with you, assembly error is most likely. Which is so very common.
@slick2500 , what was the oldest 6S you ever had? Mine was a v1 OC, got used as a give me. It became a donor parts rig that wasnt worth buying parts for as I initially thought would be. I could tell it was old because the sway bar link balls weren't the current composite ones. They were steel, as we now see as upgrade parts. Can you confirm this yourself? I only got into Arrmas around the Hobbico dilemma. 2016 17.
Just curious.

 

[slick2500]

That's why I agree with you, assembly error is most likely. Which is so very common.
@slick2500 , what was the oldest 6S you ever had? Mine was a v1 OC, got used as a give me. It became a donor parts rig that wasnt worth buying parts for as I initially thought would be. I could tell it was old because the sway bar link balls weren't the current composite ones. They were steel, as we now see as upgrade parts. Can you confirm this yourself? I only got into Arrmas around the Hobbico dilemma. 2016 17.
Just curious.

My oldest is my V1 Outcast I bought brand new back in 2017, but most of it has been upgraded or replaced over the years, the only original parts I still have on my Outcast are the hex hubs and the steering top plate.

 

[Damagedgoods]

Never said it was rocket science. I'd like to see you adjust it from the bottom with without a ball tip driver. The avg enthusiast doesn't have one. Which makes it a pain in the ass and we have to figure out a different way. Nobody wants to spend more money on tools that are rarely needed. On top of the fact ball tip drivers can strip heads easily if not used correctly.

Honestly not being a smart ass but the 29-40 bucks for a set of hex drivers makes it possible to adjust them from the bottom of a v5. Not to mention a bunch of other things. I know it sucks to spend another 40 bucks or whatever but in the long run it is easier on you.

BINGO.
You are correct. the placement of the shims are different for Kraton and Not. The shorter wheel base Noto/OC gets less Castor angle at the upper arms. So all the shims (4MM) are placed rearward. The LWB Kraton uses 2mm shimming at front and then at rear of the upper arm. (less castor) Many guys mix them up as I've seen in pictures without realizing. But if you are aware of these Castor shims, you can tweak them to your advantage. You can dial in more or less steering.
Good eye. You know your Arrmas.

BTW its possible your K6s didnt come with Fr Mud guards. I see some without, Guess it depends. ?‍ Arrma had changed revisions years back. V5 has them for sure. Its on the "standard parts list".

Interesting I didn't know that , I did know that on my kraton the thick one went in front and the two thinner ones went on the back.