So I was trying to figure out how to adjust the droop on my new kraton v5 since the shock slides in easily. I've read there needs to be a tad bit compression. Anyway there is no longer an adjustment. There is just a 2.5mm screw from the bottom which is not adjustable.
Kraton Droop screw no longer adjustable on v5. Look inside... pics included.
- Thread starter Daddytrex
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 1,682
- Reaction score
- 2,058
- Location
- UK
- Arrma RC's
- Felony
- Mojave EXB
- Notorious
- Outcast 6s
- Typhon 3s
That's a backwards step in my eyes - yes, the button head will help with keeping the chassis ears from being dug out, but it's ridiculous that they're using these screws that you can't adjust from the top now. If you push the arm upwards, you may be able to adjust it from the bottom, especially if you've got a ball tip driver
Arrma even supply double socket screws, so the factory should have just used them here. Avid and M2C as well as others sell dome/button head droop screws too, but I use part no. AR727410 ?
Arrma even supply double socket screws, so the factory should have just used them here. Avid and M2C as well as others sell dome/button head droop screws too, but I use part no. AR727410 ?
anthonyslwooko
Active Member
- Messages
- 242
- Reaction score
- 342
You can adjust from the bottom
walloftvs
Active Member
- Messages
- 142
- Reaction score
- 205
- Arrma RC's
- Kraton 6s
Exactly. The v5 uses the EXB arms which has the same setup.
Push in the arm and screw from the bottom. It's not rocket science.
Yes - they are just M4x10 button head screws - adjust from the bottom - but if you want adjustability from the top and bottom, just swap them out with a set of Tekno or Arrma droop screws.
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1238-droop-adjustment-screws-m4x10mm-8pcs/
Edit: the Kraton EXB also came with M4x10 button head screws and I’ll take those over the grub screws they used to use. But real droop screws are easy enough to swap out.
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1238-droop-adjustment-screws-m4x10mm-8pcs/
Edit: the Kraton EXB also came with M4x10 button head screws and I’ll take those over the grub screws they used to use. But real droop screws are easy enough to swap out.
- Messages
- 6,392
- Reaction score
- 12,584
- Arrma RC's
- Nero
I find it easier to adjust from the bottom than the old design from the top ??
Arrmaspook
Fairly New Member
- Messages
- 22
- Reaction score
- 27
Nice to see pics and questions for the new V5 with great explanations. Mine is sitting under the tree, so appreciate all the information on here.
- Thread starter
- #8
Never said it was rocket science. I'd like to see you adjust it from the bottom with without a ball tip driver. The avg enthusiast doesn't have one. Which makes it a pain in the ass and we have to figure out a different way. Nobody wants to spend more money on tools that are rarely needed. On top of the fact ball tip drivers can strip heads easily if not used correctly.
- Messages
- 10,107
- Reaction score
- 24,895
- Location
- TENNESSEEESSEEEEEE
- Arrma RC's
- Limitless
- Mojave
- Typhon 6s
If you prefer the old way of doing it from the top... you could always pull the lower arm and flip the screw around the other way.
Same
SrC
RC is a lifestyle choice
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 22,472
- Reaction score
- 30,887
- Location
- Queens, NYC
- Arrma RC's
- Fireteam
- Infraction
- Limitless
- Kraton 6s
- Mojave
- Notorious
- Outcast 6s
- Typhon TLR
Sure you can. With great difficulty. And that is so lame. Droop is not set once and forget. It needs to be easily accessed from the top. WOW. @Daddytrex, you have a good eye. Nice find.You can adjust from the bottom
It's these little things that count. Easy fix with a set of AR727410. I use Avid Ti domed also.With all due respect, I beg to differ. ?I find it easier to adjust from the bottom than the old design from the top ??
You need to set droop from the top. Done in seconds real easy. It is a very fine adjustment. Hardcore Race rigs are always done from the top. Even Durango did it that way. All 1/8 track rigs. Its just the way its been.
From the bottom, by removing the shocks and all is wrong. You measure droop setting by measuring shock length while they are attached. The only way to set droop properly. Both shocks must be equal in length and slightly compressed for proper droop left to right. Sometimes droop changes when the droop ears on the chassis get worn out or the arms warp etc. Droop is not something you can/should eyeball IMHO. Difficult if not accurate from the bottom.
Just me. Maybe I am anal.
Edit:
The amount of droop is personal preference. But always enough droop to compress the shocks a few millimeters when the arms are at full extension at a minimum. This prevents broken pistons and rod ends. Droop will dial in a rig nicely if you do it right. You always measure both shocks lengths identically. Ruler or caliper. Usually top eyelet to bottom eyelet. Droop can be set different for the front and rear. I like my Kraton arms at the rear more level for instance than the front arms.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #14
I will give it a try tomorrow. Right now I am fighting with my daughters slipper clutch for her big rock. I am having some issues lol. Decided to take a 5 min break to check the forum for answers and gather myself. Before I throw the rig out the window lol???
SrC
RC is a lifestyle choice
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 22,472
- Reaction score
- 30,887
- Location
- Queens, NYC
- Arrma RC's
- Fireteam
- Infraction
- Limitless
- Kraton 6s
- Mojave
- Notorious
- Outcast 6s
- Typhon TLR
You need a longer screw. Actually a long grub screw is even better than what's there now. (the old V4 setup) The grub just tears up the droop ears though.
Aside from the Arrma droop screws, I prefer these Avids. They wont gouge holes into the chassis droop ears.
AVD1813 Avid RC 1/8 Scale Titanium Domed Droop Screws (4) 614042100576 | eBay
Last edited:
SrC
RC is a lifestyle choice
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 22,472
- Reaction score
- 30,887
- Location
- Queens, NYC
- Arrma RC's
- Fireteam
- Infraction
- Limitless
- Kraton 6s
- Mojave
- Notorious
- Outcast 6s
- Typhon TLR
Honestly it is impossible to do it from the bottom with the included stock one you have..... Arrma must have pre- set the droop in the V5's( not a great idea at all if you ask me) You need an actual Droop screw. It has a broached hex at the threaded end that will be accessible from the top of the arm.. The Droop screw is screwed from the bottom of the arm using hex wrench screwing counter clockwise and it will come thru the top of the arm. If that makes sense. That's how I use it. Even the cheaper Arrma version droop screws install this way, but the Arrma version also has a hex at the button side of it. Hope I didnt confuse you. The deal with the Avids is that the button side is completly smooth and will not damage the chassis, and has a Hex at the threaded end. I have old chassis that are completely gouged out where the droop screws contact the droop ears from regular bashing. The arms MUST be removed to install droop screws straight into the arms.
Its not a real priority to change them out right away. These are button side down and probably wont damage the chassis like the V4 grub screws did all the time. Just that droop appears to not be adjustable. Maybe by design. (Or cut costs)
Concentrate on your diffs for now. Way more important.
DOUBLE SOCKET BUTTON HEAD SCREW M4x10mm (8PCS) (AR727410) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)
Its not a real priority to change them out right away. These are button side down and probably wont damage the chassis like the V4 grub screws did all the time. Just that droop appears to not be adjustable. Maybe by design. (Or cut costs)
Concentrate on your diffs for now. Way more important.
DOUBLE SOCKET BUTTON HEAD SCREW M4x10mm (8PCS) (AR727410) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)
Last edited:
- Messages
- 6,392
- Reaction score
- 12,584
- Arrma RC's
- Nero
No worries bud, folks are aloud a different opinionSure you can. With great difficulty. And that is so lame. Droop is not set once and forget. It needs to be easily accessed from the top. WOW. @Daddytrex, you have a good eye. Nice find.
With all due respect, I beg to differ. ?
You need to set droop from the top. Done in seconds real easy. It is a very fine adjustment. Hardcore Race rigs are always done from the top. Even Durango did it that way. All 1/8 track rigs. Its just the way its been.
From the bottom, by removing the shocks and all is wrong. You measure droop setting by measuring shock length while they are attached. The only way to set droop properly. Both shocks must be equal in length and slightly compressed for proper droop left to right. Sometimes droop changes when the droop ears on the chassis get worn out or the arms warp etc. Droop is not something you can/should eyeball IMHO. Difficult if not accurate from the bottom.
Just me. Maybe I am anal.
Edit:
The amount of droop is personal preference. But always enough droop to compress the shocks a few millimeters when the arms are at full extension at a minimum. This prevents broken pistons and rod ends. Droop will dial in a rig nicely if you do it right. You always measure both shocks lengths identically. Ruler or caliper. Usually top eyelet to bottom eyelet. Droop can be set different for the front and rear. I like my Kraton arms at the rear more level for instance than the front arms.
✌?I use the AR727410 as well so, I can adjust from top or bottom, whichever is easiest at the time. i don’t find myself spending too much time with droop as bash vehicle ... if it was a street vehicle I’d agree with you 100%. But a lot of the time my bash rigs won’t even run sway bars ??
going to the moon we can’t expect a droop screw to stay put haha. Idk. Maybe I’m don’t pay enough attn to detail? ??
??different strokes... and it’s all good. ??✌?
Rab
Fairly New Member
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 3
If you compress shock fully you can adjust the droop screw. Agree not best HB droop screw has hex top and bottom would be better Arrma
SrC
RC is a lifestyle choice
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 22,472
- Reaction score
- 30,887
- Location
- Queens, NYC
- Arrma RC's
- Fireteam
- Infraction
- Limitless
- Kraton 6s
- Mojave
- Notorious
- Outcast 6s
- Typhon TLR
I agree with your bashing concept 100%. Bashing is more set droop and forget. Droop in a basher is most important for preventing shock damage, not so much the handling aspect. Left to right should be equal. Adjusting from the top is so much easier. That's all. Turning the Droop screw is very sensitive.No worries bud, folks are aloud a different opinion
I use the AR727410 as well so, I can adjust from top or bottom, whichever is easiest at the time. i don’t find myself spending too much time with droop as bash vehicle ... if it was a street vehicle I’d agree with you 100%. But a lot of the time my bash rigs won’t even run sway bars ??
going to the moon we can’t expect a droop screw to stay put haha. Idk. Maybe I’m don’t pay enough attn to detail? ??
different strokes... and it’s all good. ??✌?
You are a hardcore basher, I surmise way more than myself.
I've built so many kits versus owning RTR's, that Droop is imbedded in my overall setup. Arrma manuals never address this. Many Arrma guys don't mess with it. Or understand it. I know. I could have given even more accurate Droop setup methods than just by measuring shock length. But a setup board is used with axle height measuring tools.. That Info is not needed for basher rigs, Maybe more for the Speed run guys...
